Worktops not wide enough?

[Doug71]

I'm on with fitting worktops to the kitchen I've fitted and could do with more advice from people who know what they are doing!

Because of bent walls and keeping things in line etc the carcasses are about 10mm off the wall where the hob will go. When the worktops turned up today they are only 600 mm deep which is only going to give about 5mm overhang in front of the doors. I was thinking I could pull the worktops off the wall 10mm as there is a 20mm thick upstand but realised there is a glass splashback behind the hob which sits on the worktop so really the worktop needs to go back to the wall.

Solutions I have thought of

The splashback is solid colour so I could pack it off the wall on a backing board to cover the gap?

I can maybe pull the worktop say 5mm off the wall and just caulk behind it?

I can't see that sticking a slither of worktop on the back will work very well?

Any other ideas?

I wish I did these things more often then I would see these problems before they happen

If the worktops were 615mm there wouldn't be a problem

Edit to add they are laminate worktops.

 

[Rorton]

is it not possible to swap to deeper worktops at all?

 

[Alpha-Dave]

If not swapping for deeper, then consider selling the current ones and buying deeper. You will lose some money, but the ‘fixes’ to make the shallow ones work will also cost some amount.

Personally I think that a work top needs to be well sealed due to spills getting into the cracks and warping the material, so a single piece is superior, however if you have compressed laminate, which is effectively micarta, then that can be epoxied together from smaller pieces and will be completely water proof.

Caveat: I don’t fit kitchens professionally, strictly amateur.

 

[Adam W.]

Lamentos!

This kind of thing sucks greatly and trying to fit stuff made for perfect walls is a nightmare when the walls are wonky.

It sounds like you need a wider top where one isn't available, as caulk will shrink in the end and pull away from the wall leaving a web of mess.

Is this your house or for a job ?

 

[Doug B]

Fit the hob unit to the wall then scribe & cut the side panels of the adjoining cupboards to the wall so the worktop gives the correct overhang, you’ll have to scribe & cut the worktop as well.

 

[peter-harrison]

If you can get hold of some of the same timber, I would just build out the back edge. it doesn't need to be the same thickness unless you can see an edge. If it's one of those ones made from lots of little bits, you can replicate that by using similar lengths. You could fix it very simply, screws and glue, and remove the screws before you scribe it. You can refix them after if you aren't sure of your glue line.
Fix it slightly proud of the worktop and flush it off with a plane, scraper or sander.
Remember, it won't be getting any wear and very little loading.

 

[topchippyles]

Some stupid answers for goodness sake. Its a problem solved he wants not to sell worktops and buy new. Is this your own kitchen doug ? Scribe all the base units to sit tight against the wall so then that will give you the overhang on the front.

 

[doctor Bob]

Solutions I have thought of

The splashback is solid colour so I could pack it off the wall on a backing board to cover the gap?

This one.

 

[Adam W.]

Some stupid answers for goodness sake. Its a problem solved he wants not to sell worktops and buy new. Is this your own kitchen doug ? Scribe all the base units to sit tight against the wall so then that will give you the overhang on the front.

That's if he's got enough room for the drawers and all the other fitted stuff, but yes that's about it.

 

[Doug71]

Is this your house or for a job ?

For the ex wife so kind of a job but not charging much!

is it not possible to swap to deeper worktops at all?

No, some ***** has already opened the packages and started cutting them



It's sorted now anyway, I stopped procrastinating about it and got on with moving the run of units back to the wall, I got about 6mm further back without too much trouble which will make it near enough, luckily I had made nice big cut outs for the pipes behind the units. I think I will be able to caulk what's left. I will have to recut some fillers but it's not a problem.

I'm not sure if to put a board behind the splash back anyway as the wall is a bit bent, any opinions on that one?

 

[Phill05]

What about any appliances are they to fit under? that would make fitting units back a no-no

 

[parvum]

Vide topchippyles
most pre assembled units have a 75mm void for services at the back, this allows ample scope for scribing keeping the fronts in line, only the void space varies to comply with the wavy wall and the designed space ( usually 575mm deep) within theunits is undisturbed. Appliances may however still have to protrude in extreme cases, but at least the drawers and doors will be ok

 

[RobinBHM]

This one.

that strikes me as the easiest and quickest pro solution -its certainly what I would do

12mm hardiebacker board would avoid any concerns of moisture
or 18mm plywood

 

[RobinBHM]

I'm not sure if to put a board behind the splash back anyway as the wall is a bit bent, any opinions on that one?

Ive never fitted glass splashbacks but it seems a good option to me.

 

[johnnyb]

my helper always says stuff like. you need to check worktopstonarrow .com or unitstowide.co.uk .always makes me snigger when we go in a small house with a monster TV. he says TVtobig.com roomtosmall.co.uk.

 

[doctor Bob]

my helper always says stuff like. you need to check worktopstonarrow .com or unitstowide.co.uk .always makes me snigger when we go in a small house with a monster TV. he says TVtobig.com roomtosmall.co.uk.

or butthingesyouwallynotconcealedhinges.com ................that was a biggy!!!!

 

[topchippyles]

For the ex wife so kind of a job but not charging much!



No, some silly person has already opened the packages and started cutting them



It's sorted now anyway, I stopped procrastinating about it and got on with moving the run of units back to the wall, I got about 6mm further back without too much trouble which will make it near enough, luckily I had made nice big cut outs for the pipes behind the units. I think I will be able to caulk what's left. I will have to recut some fillers but it's not a problem.

I'm not sure if to put a board behind the splash back anyway as the wall is a bit bent, any opinions on that one?

Nice and simple doug which is why i am topchippy I should post more on this forum but as a guy who mills all his own timber i am on the arbtalk forum a lot.Well done mate