Workshop walls

[sirocosm]

I am building a workshop (4m x 7.5m internal size) on top of this:

It is framed in 150mm which I plan to insulate with fiberglass or rockwool. I don't plan to heat it continuously, only when I am doing work that requires it.

What to put on the walls? My first thought would be drywall, but in an unheated structure I am worried it would attract damp. I also thought plywood might be an option. Either way, I am not sure if vapor barrier is a good idea, as would be required if it were heated and warm inside.

Any suggestions?

 

[Spectric]

What are you using on the exterior?

If you want a nice finish on the inside and something that is not going to be affected by damp then look for laminated ply panels, used by companies that make truck and van bodies. If something cheaper then ply is a good option, just paint the rear with exterior paint or barn black to protect what you won't see. Rather than fluffy insulation use PIR boards, much more efficient.

 

[sirocosm]

I guess I forgot to mention that cost is a factor, I think PIR and laminated panels are bit out of my price range.

 

[sirocosm]

I was going to stucco (render?) the exterior.

 

[Inspector]

When I did my shop 7/16"/11mm OSB was cheaper than drywall at the time and lots less than plywood so walls and ceilings are done in it. At some point I will paint it. OSB or plywood have the advantage of being able to attach things to the wall easily compared to drywall. My shop is heated to at least 17ºC year round and has 2x6 stud walls with fibreglass bats. The windows are triple glazed because we have much colder winters than you do. You are the first Britt on this forum I've seen to use concrete for the foundation walls like we usually do here. Most of you are using brick. You plan of waterproofing it?

Pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/are worth keeping an eye on. I would look to insulate as best you can - intermittent heating can cause things to rust. I had no problem whatsoever with rust until I installed a pot belly stove.

 

[sirocosm]

When I did my shop 7/16"/11mm OSB was cheaper than drywall at the time and lots less than plywood so walls and ceilings are done in it. At some point I will paint it. OSB or plywood have the advantage of being able to attach things to the wall easily compared to drywall. My shop is heated to at least 17ºC year round and has 2x6 stud walls with fibreglass bats. The windows are triple glazed because we have much colder winters than you do. You are the first Britt on this forum I've seen to use concrete for the foundation walls like we usually do here. Most of you are using brick. You plan of waterproofing it?

Pete

Haha, I grew up in Regina, I chose wood frame walls because it is easier for insulation, wiring, and to fasten stuff, and they are a bit cheaper. I bought a small mixer to pour the footing and grade beam.

For waterpoofing I used what they call here "tanking slurry". It is a kind of water proof cement product that you paint on the outside. Nicer than tar, we'll see how it performs.

In Saskatchewan it is so much dryer than here, so I would just drywall it. Here I am not so sure it is a good idea. I did use pressure treated lumber.

 

[sirocosm]

https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/are worth keeping an eye on. I would look to insulate as best you can - intermittent heating can cause things to rust. I had no problem whatsoever with rust until I installed a pot belly stove.

I framed it last fall and threw tarps over it, and I am now tiling the roof. I was worried about mold, since the tarps are not perfect, so I bought a desiccant dehumidifier. I am wondering if that might partially work to heat it in the winter, it is around 600w or so. It just creates heat right? and there must be some heat gained from the change of state I figure.

 

[Inspector]

Haha, I grew up in Regina, I chose wood frame walls because it is easier for insulation, wiring, and to fasten stuff, and they are a bit cheaper. I bought a small mixer to pour the footing and grade beam.

For waterpoofing I used what they call here "tanking slurry". It is a kind of water proof cement product that you paint on the outside. Nicer than tar, we'll see how it performs.

In Saskatchewan it is so much dryer than here, so I would just drywall it. Here I am not so sure it is a good idea. I did use pressure treated lumber.

A Southerner eh? Hope you weren't insulted being called a Britt.

I was born in Vancouver and lived in the Fraser Valley until about 5 years ago before moving here.

Price of construction wood has gone nuts here. I bought 1 pressure treated 2x4 12' long the other day and it was $20. The lumber yards don't even put prices on the stacks anymore. You have to go ask to get the day's price or grab it and bend over at the till.

I would have used the OSB in BC if I was there too and it is just as wet as England is. The shop walls are 2x6 too.

Pete

 

[sirocosm]

Although I grew up in Canada, I was born in London, but moved away when I was a kid, so I guess I have come home.

One thing I have learned is that prices for building materials are wildly variable here. You cannot buy anything here in any quantity without negotiating a price. In Canada you can get a bit off if you haggle and are buying a lot, but here it can be less than 1/2 the initial price. I get the feeling that most homeowners get hosed here.

 

[danst96]

Haha, I grew up in Regina, I chose wood frame walls because it is easier for insulation, wiring, and to fasten stuff, and they are a bit cheaper. I bought a small mixer to pour the footing and grade beam.

For waterpoofing I used what they call here "tanking slurry". It is a kind of water proof cement product that you paint on the outside. Nicer than tar, we'll see how it performs.

In Saskatchewan it is so much dryer than here, so I would just drywall it. Here I am not so sure it is a good idea. I did use pressure treated lumber.

This forum is a funny place, I'm moving to Regina.

I guessed you has a Canadian link when you started talking about "stucco"

All the best with your shop build.

 

[TRITON]

I'd suggest a wider doorway

 

[clogs]

for me in your case I'd use a damp proof membrane stapled to the frame then use 3/4"-19mm shuttering ply for the walls.......screwed on 9"-12" centers.....
this way it will stiffen the building and you can hang anything on the wall where ever you like....
outside depends on planning ?
but I rather like the double skined steel insulated panels......they keep clean look smart (use two colours) and are virtually for LIFE.....
one other thing during the build make alwance for a natural form of ventilation....
for heating I would always go oil filled rads if I cant connect to the house central heating......
my new barn will have a seperated machine shop 100m2 and that will have underfloor heating via the house boiler.....

 

[RobinBHM]

You've not said what your wall make up is.

I would cover the outside with tyvek house wrap, then 50 x 25 battens then cement board for rendering.

The tyvek will stop air and moisture getting in, keep the interior dry.

 

[sirocosm]

The walls are framed in 2x6, with 18mm structural ply on the outside. It is covered with a breathable membrane material, something like tyvek. I plan to screw wire mesh to that, and then stucco it. Come to think of it, I am still looking for the wire mesh, it is a square mesh about 1 inch, with little folds in it to make it stand away from the wall a bit. I am not sure what it called here, but in the end any wire mesh will probably work.

 

[Cabinetman]

https://www.tradestoreonline.co.uk/...MIwr7LkPvX8AIVxe7tCh0edwFEEAQYAyABEgKQLvD_BwE This seems to be the up-to-date stuff, by the way it’s called rendering here. Good luck with your build. Ian

 

[Gary_S]

When I did my shop 7/16"/11mm OSB was cheaper than drywall at the time and lots less than plywood so walls and ceilings are done in it. At some point I will paint it. OSB or plywood have the advantage of being able to attach things to the wall easily compared to drywall. My shop is heated to at least 17ºC year round and has 2x6 stud walls with fibreglass bats. The windows are triple glazed because we have much colder winters than you do. You are the first Britt on this forum I've seen to use concrete for the foundation walls like we usually do here. Most of you are using brick. You plan of waterproofing it?

Pete

I painted my OSB walls white for more light. I am going to turn or replace them though as I like the warm look of OSB. I would like to use Cellotex or similar for insulation but will put in Rockwool. I am goint to clad the outside and will also put a waterproof membranbe between the cladding and wall. My workshop is a little cold and damp sometimes and if I leave mychisels over winter, they get a little rusty.

 

[sirocosm]

The stuff I have used before is made of metal, comes in 4 foot wide rolls, and looks like this:

You can see it has little folds to keep it away from the wall a bit, although you usually pull it out some as you are going so it sits in the middle of the base coat.

 

[Terrytpot]

I'd suggest a wider doorway

seconded..very jealous of your impending new workshop.Any space I can have design input into would always have a double width doorway, not just for extracting large items but more so in case my future desires for equipment exceed the capacity of a normal door

 

[TRITON]

..very jealous of your impending new workshop

Seconded

Aye, I'd agree, especially on the machinery side of things. Some can be broken down to smaller sections, but most cant., especially something like a moulder or saw bench.