Workshop stove....

[kostello]

Has anyone got any experience with these workshop stoves by Tecnik?


They seems reasonable for the money.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221030450680? ... 1438.l2649

 

[Bigdanny]

Should work OK. Based on this quite simple idea. http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yo ... Stove.aspx .

Danny

 

[Karl]

I looked at those stoves for my workshop. They are not a true sawdust burner in the sense of the link Danny provided. They are simply a big box with a spigot on the top for a flue.

I'm about to get one of these.

Cheers

Karl

 

[marcros]

i assume that you need a flue of some form on these paint can/drum designs if using it in a workshop?

 

[Grahamshed]

I am currently looking at one of these http://www.workshopstoves.co.uk/Oakfire1-workshop-stove.asp which, of I understand it correctly, will burn offcuts as well as sawdust. Much dearer though.
Does your linked burner do both Karl ?

 

[Grahamshed]

Marcros - They all need flues. I am guessing getting the hole for that watertight is the biggest problem with them.

I also have some minor concerns about going off and leaving them burning though I tell myself they are used in houses, boats and caravans ok.

 

[marcros]

i need to have a look into this. i have similar concerns about leaving it, but with a bit of practice, it should be possible to pack a 2-3 hour burn into a paint can which would be ideal for me. my other concern is that all of the heat just goes up the flue and out.

 

[RogerP]

i need to have a look into this. i have similar concerns about leaving it, but with a bit of practice, it should be possible to pack a 2-3 hour burn into a paint can which would be ideal for me. my other concern is that all of the heat just goes up the flue and out.

My brother-in-law lives in Sweden and in his "country cottage" they have a wood burner. The flue goes up to about head height then is bent to follow horizontally around three walls before going up and out. The piping gets very hot and acts as a sort of linear radiator.

 

[acewoodturner]

I have had a Hotspot stove, pop3 iirc, for 8 years now. Its good at burning shavings and sawdust and has the tube from the top down about 2/3 of the way of the belly of the stove. Works pretty well. Only drawback is that it is made from thin metal and it is easy to get the stove to glow red and buckle. In order to run a stove efficiently it has to be run hard or the wood is not combusted properly and tar starts to line the flue with the inevivtable consequences os a chimney fire if it is not swept regularly. That btw is pretty scarey if you havent seen or heard one before.
I have looked at the stoves sold by technic on ebay and will probably buy the 20kw one. These look for better than the Chinese imported crap that a lot of sellers have. One difference between technic's stoves and the others is that there is no door at the bottom to clear the ashes from it. I propose to do that with a steel ladle costing a few quid from a supermarket. With shavings and sawdust I tend to use a dog food scoop to add a few scoopfuls every now and then. I wouldnt burn just shavings and sawdust on their own. This I find works pretty well and its amazing just how quickly you get through it all. I also have at least 8m3 of dry firewood stored outside and at least another 10m3 in the process of drying. Sure beats paying the robbing power companies.
You also have to remember that for every kw rating a stove has, it will burn a kw of wood per hour.

 

[bexupnorth]

I'm just in the process of converting an old calor gas bottle to a woodburning stove and will post up my efforts in a separate thread.

During my research I turned up the following:
- Flues really do need to be double skinned from the moment they leave the stove to reduce the risk of chimney fires
- A baffle plate placed in front of the flue will greatly increase the efficiency and reduce the temperature of the stuff going up the flue reducing the build ups that can cause chimney fires
- Sealed to room designs are more efficient and less likely to produce Carbon Monoxide problems
- If you're burning wood, ensure draw comes from above, coal from below
- As acewoodturner says, run 'em hard, again to reduce chimney deposits
- Wood shavings make fantastic fire lighters

This site has some excellent reference material: http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Flue-and-Chimney.html

Hope this helps,

Ade.

 

[kostello]

I'm about to get one of these.

Cheers

Karl

i've seen that video but the link doesn't seem to go any info about the stoves

 

[RogerBoyle]

I looked at those stoves for my workshop. They are not a true sawdust burner in the sense of the link Danny provided. They are simply a big box with a spigot on the top for a flue.

I'm about to get one of these.

Cheers

Karl

Karl
Is there a spigot attached to the outer barrell for the flue or is it a case of getting something made up for it??
Where do you get a flue that will fit it from ??
And finally what price are we looking at for one including the flue

 

[Karl]

I am currently looking at one of these http://www.workshopstoves.co.uk/Oakfire1-workshop-stove.asp which, of I understand it correctly, will burn offcuts as well as sawdust. Much dearer though.
Does your linked burner do both Karl ?

Not sure - it's shown as a sawdust burner, but also says that any combustible material can be used. I was thinking of using a mix - some sawdust, some offucts, more sawdust compacted down.

i've seen that video but the link doesn't seem to go any info about the stoves

I'm not getting mine from there - somebody I know had one made up.

Karl
Is there a spigot attached to the outer barrell for the flue or is it a case of getting something made up for it??
Where do you get a flue that will fit it from ??
And finally what price are we looking at for one including the flue

Mine has a spigot on the rear, and that connects directly to my 6" flue (which was already in the 'shop when I moved in). I'm buying mine 2nd hand - not sure how much they would be new.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Grahamshed]

Are there any thoughts on the safety of going off and leaving these to burn themselves out ?

 

[acewoodturner]

I leave mine burning when I go home for lunch or in the evening, normally topped up with more logs on it. I do check that everything combustable is at least a metre away from it and that nothing can fall on to it. I am in a concrete/brick workshop on an industrial estate and know that the walls or roof wont catch alight though. Perhaps be different if I was in a wooden shed.

 

[LBCarpentry]

This looks BRILLIANT.

I certainly wont be paying for a tine drum with a hole in the bottom though!

Seems like the perfect excuse to sack the morning off work and source a drum and make this thing!

 

[LBCarpentry]

And here's where I start!!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Drum-200L ... 23238415b8