Workshop sketchup review please

[GarethT]

Hi guys

I started messing about with sketchup yesterday to plan out my workshop build.

All images and the sketchup file are here https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B54yJwvmeTwiSGExWFR2TVFfRFk&usp=sharing

Would you mind having a look and letting me know if I am going in the right direction or if you would change anything?

The build is going to be a 12x10 pent roof workshop.

With it being positioned close to the boundary wall, it's maximum height is 2.5m. It's going to sit on a plastic frame, with pea gravel all over. http://www.simplygardenbuildings.co.uk/probase-shed-base-foundation-569-offer-9222-p.asp. The reason it to keep costs down and the amount of work to get a concrete base in position, is both hard work and 3x more expensive

I designed it so the frame is built using 4x2's, however if you think I can get away with 3x2's please let me know.

The floor joists will constructed using 45mm x 95mm decking joists, with insulation throughout and re-enforced with 4 cross braces

And then insulated with some 75mm Kingspan

Then covered with 15mm WBP plywood

This is as far as I've gotten, and my first time designing something like this, so I might have gone a bit overboard or missed something.

Primarily the workshop will be used for woodworking, so will have the usual's (Bandsaw, Lathe, Workbench, table top pillar drill, scroll saw and a small construction tablesaw)

Many thanks in advance

Gareth

 

[Craigus]

How exactly does the pea gravel thing work? Do you just sit the floor joists on the gravel?

Not something I like the sound of personally...

 

[GarethT]

From my understanding, yep

 

[deema]

Read your thread on the base and just a suggestion from a none bricks man. A suggestion I've used myself, however Please shoot me down at will.

I built a 10' x10' shed. The base was 9 pillers built from paving slabs I got for free.....lots and lots available for free if you are willing to collect in my experience. Dug down and just pilled one on top of the other with a bit of cement inbetween. No finesse required, it's never seen to give me about 6" clearance from the ground. Then it was a simple arrangement of 6"x3" joists (with membrane under the wood to separate from the pillars, not across the entire floor span) purchased from the local fencing company - far cheaper than graded joists and pressure treated as well! After all, it's a shed and does not need building regs, and as a woody I can ensure that the wood stuff stays where it should.

The shed stores machines I've not found room for yet!!! And have picked up secondhand. Not moved a jot and bone dry.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+1. Don't place any wood in direct contact with the ground. I appreciate pea shingle is a high draining material....that is right to the point when there's so much rain that it starts to puddle. Then your under joists get wet and the rot clock starts ticking.

I would happily avoid the cost and hassle of a full slab also but go with the padstone principle which means either paving slabs or also concrete blocks on the flat ie a dense rot proof material upon which you place the wooden frame a good 4 to 6 inches above ground level. Then build up from there. That solution allows air to circulate under the structure and none of the wood is in direct contact with the ground

 

[deema]

For the walls you should be Ok with 3x2's and again use standard fence rails that will also be tantalised. If it's a workshop I would recommend an apex roof for a few reasons
1. The walls don't have to be as high.
2. You can get the lighting higher for a lower roof.
3. Decide where you want your bench and make that the side the roof slopes down on to maximise head room whilst reducing the walls to a minimum. You don't need much height over a bench.
4. There are less issues with water ingress / getting a good seal as the pitch sheds the water better.
5. You don't need to worry as much about snow burden and therefore can build it of lighter materials.
6. its less 'in your face' for the neighbours and looks smaller. I think 15m2 is the maximum size for a shed before planning permission is required. Looking smaller is good.

I would use ship lap for the outside, (it's very difficult to remove by light fingered friends unlike sheet material other than by sawing a hole in it) proper stuff not what you buy at a DIY shed. I didn't bother with insulation / internal lining, it's only a small volume and easy to keep warm on the coldest of days at the size (assuming is imperial measurements).

Bars at any window are essential, and obscure glace a must. Double glazing is preferable not for the insulation properties but the keep the light fingered friends at bay routine. (Lots of very cheap secondhand UPVC double gazing windows with glass included available on auction sites / free). A proper door is also a must with a 5 lever lock, again secondhand house door is perfect and also very very cheap from auction sites. Sounds a bit of a mis-match, but you can buy a solid hard wood door properly tennoned together with a lock already in place for around £20 on auction sites that is varnished. I sold one recently with two triple glazed lights on eBay for that same sum. (Came from a house I replaced the front door and they wanted to skip, I only charged £5 to take it away )

As you are building it the dimensions of the openings are within your discretion, and you make the shed to the bits you accumulate. That way it looks as though you have a property designed shed with the best products, when in reality it's cost very little and is an accumulation of things thrown together. I would think you would have change out if £500 for the shed your looking to build (mine cost £350 two years ago)

 

[flying haggis]

looks very similiar to the one i built. mine was 22 feet by 8 feet.
I used 3x2 for all the framing, the floor bearers, and 6x2 for the roof joists.

my build here
yet-another-shed-build-t60331.html

 

[=Adam=]

From a structural point of view, I would personally opt for 18mm ply for the flooring, this is what we spec when doing structural spec in work.

I would also agree with the idea of elevating the slab from the ground, this way you should avoid any possible damp/rot issues.

I'm not sure if it has been covered, but I would stress the use of treated timber for all external applications.

Good luck on the build and keep us updated.

 

[flying haggis]

 

[n0legs]

NOGGINS \/

 

[GarethT]

Hi all

Thanks for your feedback.

Adam: I was thinking about using either feather board or another cladding for the external and build the frame from CLS timber. Do you advise against this and using treated timber throughout?

Haggis I like the look of your build.

Thanks