Workshop Base - comments , suggetsions, advice

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paulc

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So I 've finally got the base of my workshop in position, the frame was fairly heavy but managed to get it in without disturbing the blocks too much

P1010058.jpg


Plan at the moment is:
* anchor bolt frame to wall on left (will be internal wall)
*5.5mm ply in stud cavities
*rockwool on top of that
*dpm on top of that -so that any major spill in workshop does not soak
rockwool and to act as moisture barrier.
*18mm wbp ply on top as flooring.

Any comments , suggetsions, advice very welcome, cheers , Paul
 
The timber looks like it is not treated with any preservative. I'd be tempted to soak it with something suitable.
I'd also add some noggins to stiffen up the floor and resist any twisting of the joists. Plan out the joints in the 18mm floor decking to make sure there are noggins under all the joints.

Not sure how you are going to waterproof the walls. If you are going to use synthaprufe or similar, I'd spray that on next. Any overspray/spills will help preserve the base framework and kill that grass off.

Keep the pics coming!

Bob
 
Hello 9fingers,

The wood is pressure treated , doesn't look green because of the glare of the sun in this glorious weather. got the noggins in now, frame is good and stable.

Walls will be 2x4 (treated on outer studs) , with I think wbp ply on outside. Only using shed wall to left of pic as workshop wall. The back wall will be right up against the block wall , will wbp ply be ok here or should I use treated cladding(might be too thick). ?

Whats synthaprufe ?

The grass extends about a foot in under the base from the front and then theres a concrete pad. Theres also a small channel(15cm) of grass/ soil running between the two cement pads - one for shed to left one for old garden shed where I'm building. Do you think I should use a weed killer to kill the grass/weeds in these areas? Would they cause moisture to rise into the base?

Cheers for the feedback , Paul
 
Synthaprufe is a black bituminous waterproofer for tanking walls and floors.Also comes under other names such as allprufe.
 
I would not build hard up against any wall. Either incorporate it and make it waterproof or leave a gap of 150-200mm to let the wood breathe. You will still need to treat the wood. wbp ply does not mean that it won't rot if wet.

Do you mean the shed wall on the right? Make sure the new roof covers the top edge of the wall to keep the moisture our of the wall.
Whatever is causing the green streak needs sorting out first.

Bob
 
Paul

How are the joists fixed to the wallplate it is difficult to tell from your picture I can,t see any joist hangers, are they housed in or just nailed or screwed as I would not like to rely on nails or screws for a floor that is taking any weight.

Dennis
 
Paul

I asked on the previous post how the joists are fixed because I am presuming that they are only supported on blocks where we can see the black visqueen unless what appears to be a shadow on the right is a support but there is no visqueen showing there so if the joists between the supports are only relying on nails or screws even though the flooring ply will be lapping on to the main bearer and the screws or nails in this will help to support the joists I would not be happy with this for a workshop I just hope that I am seeing it wrong.

Dennis
 
Hello Dennis,

No hangers unfortunately, couldn't gey any the right size , but there are 3 5 inch spax screws going into each joist and the side joist- against white wall- is attached with anchor bolts as well as plenty of noggins have gone in since picture. So I'm hopeful , as I'll not have any heavy machines - no space nor money , that this will be ok. What do you reckon?

Paul
 
Paul

If you are not going to put heavy machines in it should be ok.
Prior to joist hangers we used to house the joists into the bearers.

Dennis
 
perhaps some herringbone strutting between the joists?
Certainly a load of noggins in there, and as 9fingers says avoid building against the wall if you can, and most certainly get shot of the cause of whatever is causing the green damp patch on the rhs.

It really doesn't matter whether you are putting heavy machinery in, the joists could still warp if you do not stop 'em.

Truth is I am green with envy. I live in rented accommodation and cannot even consider doing anything like this, but how I wish........

Never mind, one day.....

Good luck with it all.

neil
 
Paul

Neil said it doesnt matter about putting heavy machines on joist that are not sufficiently supported to take it.Herringbone struts and noggings stop twisting and aid in support but a joist should not simply rely on nails or screws to hold it so as I said yours should be ok as long as there is not heavy machines etc put in.

Dennis
 

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