Workbench top?

[Benchwayze]

:lol: (hammer) p

In truth I got the idea from Chris Shwartz.
He produced a downloaded DVD on making a quick bench using a
couple of worktops from the 'big box' store. (I think that means IKEA or B&Q here) with the undercarriage from DIY timber. That would have been cheaper than my idea, but I started woodwork on a beech bench at school, so it's a bit nostalgia for me as well !

John

 

[Phil Pascoe]

John, I'm younger than you but even I have now passed the point that I need to justify anything, even to myself. If you want to build a nice hardwood bench, JFDI.

 

[CMax]

Massive density and thickness is not the be-all and end-all in workbench top options. Even a laminated 2x4 top isn't going to be that heavy if using something like CLS. Redwood would be better. There are other options, however:

Heavy-duty 60mm thick scaffolding boards. Either new or reclaimed. When planed can be used face down. You'd only need three or four to make the top. You wouldn't even need to edge-laminate them. A split top (a gap between the planks) is very versatile. A Nicholson bench design doesn't call for a massive thickness of tops as the aprons and leg design gives it rigidity. I built a bench years ago out of Southern Yellow Pine (it was far cheaper back then than now by my recent inquiries). My bench before that was a solid beech bench. It wasn't the most expensive but was harder to work and certainly cost more than SYP. A Nicholson design also means no laminating, greatly reducing the amount of milling/planning you need to do. When the planks are fecked, they're easy and cheap enough to remove and replace. Softwood is a great choice for tops as it's often more forgiving than your workpiece. It also absorbs chiselling without any bounceback that can sometimes occur with stiffer hardwoods, making handwork a nice experience over time.

My next bench will either be PSE Redwood (to save on the milling), or heavy-duty scaffolding if I fancy a lot of hand planing and saving a few extra quid. I do have solid wood worktop from Wickes that I considered re-using, but I don't fancy doing much hand tool work on something with so many end-grain joints. I'll be cutting it up and using it to top two 4ft-long work/assembly tables instead.

 

[disco_monkey79]

I used multiply sheets of 19mm ply for my latest bench. I didn't glue them together, because when the top gets dinged and dinked to the point of needing replacing, I can just flip the top sheet over. When that gets bad, I can swap it for the next one down...

Nice and flat, and sturdy. Storing timber underneath also adds heft. I struggle to lift it empty. When full, no chance.

 

[Horsee1]

Am I alone in constantly ruining bench tops by fixing jigs into and sending routers through them? If it's ply or MDF it's flippable as mentioned above, cheap to replace when both sides are done and easy to shim out should your legs or whatever base you have not be level.

 

[Benchwayze]

John, I'm younger than you but even I have now passed the point that I need to justify anything, even to myself. If you want to build a nice hardwood bench, JFDI.

Abso-flippin'-lutely Phil

John (hammer)

 

[Benchwayze]

Not me Horsee. I can't say I have never knocked a nail into my present bench, to make a 'corral' for gluing up with wedges; because I have. But not knocked right in! I have the MFT for machine work, if I need to, so definitely no butchering a beech top.

John (hammer)

 

[owen]

......I still think the composite door I have that came with labels has some sort of plaster board inside........

I've never seen or heard of such a construction.

But you're an architect with many years of experience? How can you not of heard of them? Some fire doors are solid core chipboard inners and some
are hollow core with pieces of "fireboard" inside them to give them the fire rating.

I see no benefit in you not calling fire doors, fire doors, after all there's not many as you call it "solid core" flat doors that are not used as fire doors nowadays??

 

[MikeG.]

Have you read the conversation, Owen? You seem to have missed the fact that we're talking about a solid core door, not hollow core doors. As I said, I have never heard of a solid core door with plasterboard inside. Have you? And yep, in flats, hospitals, and offices I don't recall ever seeing anything other than solid core doors specified, fire doors or not. I worked in commercial practice for 8 or 10 years, which means I've specified an awful lot of doors.

The background here is that Tom has been advocating for fire doors as "reference surface" (yeah, ask him) for years. I'm simply pointing out that there is no intrinsic difference between a solid core fire door and a solid core non-fire door....so whatever claims he makes for fire doors applies also to non fire doors. Tom can't actually determine whether his own bench/ door is a firedoor or not, so my suggestion that he advocate for solid core doors instead is perfectly logical. I have no understanding as to why this really simple point should induce such angst amongst some here. This is my last word on the matter.

 

[woodbloke66]

I know of one forum member who had a bench made of MDF layers. I haven't seen a post by him for an age; the last I recall he fitted a Benchcrafted tail or wagon vice to it. He swore by his MDF creation.

John

Paul Chapman built his bench top from 3 x 18mm thick MDF boards with something sacrificial over the top. Very heavy, very solid - Rob

 

[shed9]

Have you read the conversation, Owen? You seem to have missed the fact that we're talking about a solid core door................This is my last word on the matter.

 

[That would work]

I like that... fixed wheel. Doing the impossible with the un-rideable haha. Off topic but hey ho

 

[Bedrock]

It's worth a wander around your local woodyard to see what they are selling off from another project. I found 5 sheets of 15mm. thick, good quality ply, around 110x 50cms. which I plan to use for my new workbench, to fit the current smaller workshop. I plan to laminate, then fit within a hardwood apron.
Cost me less than £80.
The old, much-loved, double-sided Emir school bench will have to go.

 

[That would work]

Thank you for all your comments, I have had a slight change of mind. I am now going to make a Nicholson style bench with aprons. I often look at the beautiful looking hardwood benches that you see around which look more like fine furniture.... frankly I would be afraid to start using one!
So I am going back to the traditional Joiners style.
Three 9 inch scaffold boards for the top with small gaps between them, not expensive and easy to plane off as and when required.

 

[Benchwayze]

Why have gaps? You'll lose screws and nuts etc... :| Not to mention dust all over the area below.


John (hammer)

 

[That would work]

Well you would likely end up with a bit of a gap after a while anyway. But the idea is that the gaps can be used to place thin strips in (that then sit on the cross bearers below) to act as dogs.

 

[Benchwayze]

Ummm! By definition scaffold boards are supposed to be made from superior timber. Building workers walk on them at height; wheel their barrows along them and so on. So I would be tempted to rip them into 2.5" strips, and make a thicker top, You could still leave a gap along the centre, but usually that has a special piece in it, that can be lifted when you want to use it as a means to stop your wood slewing as you plane. If you haven't come across the English Woodworker, go on the YouTube and 'make his acquaintance. You won't be sorry. He's one of the best hand tool workers in the UK IMHO. He also build fine benches. He has a great blog.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

Well you would likely end up with a bit of a gap after a while anyway. But the idea is that the gaps can be used to place thin strips in (that then sit on the cross bearers below) to act as dogs.

Numpty question - would the boards run the lengths of the table, or crossways, for the gaps? Would it make a difference? Any scaffold planks I have used tend to cup really badly, being nasty, wide-grain pine, but that might just be because of what I have available.

 

[That would work]

Length ways. True, scaffold boards need careful selection! but if they are new and cleaned up are fine. Im quite happy with the idea of having a top which is not particularly hard timber though.

 

[Benchwayze]

Obviously things change, but scaffold boards should not be made of 'shootie' timber '. Workers' lives can depend on them. The last ones I managed to recycle were made from full 2" thick, pitch-pine and were a full 10 inches wide. They were just dirty! I would saw the ones you are getting into 2.5 inch wide laths, joint them side by side, and have a thicker bench top; a la Paul Sellers. Put your gap in the centre of 18mm and notch an 18mm board so it nestles over the bearers, but can be lifted and placed ON the bearers to raise it up for a stop board.

John (hammer)