Workbench top from square lumber (100x100 mm)

[tibi]

Hello,

I would like to build my first small workbench with a laminated top. I always see people use 2x4 for the benchtops. Can I also use 4x4 (approximately 100x100 mm), or there is some rule that it is better to glue a higher number of narrow and tall boards, instead of a smaller number of equilateral boards to make a top. I do not know how laminated thicker boards (100mmx100mm) will respond to wood movement.

The top would be made either of spruce or fir. Or I can get lower grade European beech for a similar price.

Thank you.

 

[TRITON]

The entire top made 4" thick is going to be really heavy, and it appears to be the way to have the outside edge(the apron) in 4", but the middle boards in 2"

I'd also go for beech over fir for it.

 

[marcros]

what is the intended use for the bench, hand tools or power tools?

 

[tibi]

The entire top made 4" thick is going to be really heavy, and it appears to be the way to have the outside edge(the apron) in 4", but the middle boards in 2"

I'd also go for beech over fir for it.

The benchtop will be only 1,5 m long due to space constraints, and I wanted to make it heavy enough not to move around when I plane. My original plan was to have 4" apron and 2" top above it as you mentioned. That is 150 mm together. I have a lot of 300 mm clamps, so there will be 150 mm left for material.

 

[tibi]

what is the intended use for the bench, hand tools or power tools?

hand tools only. I would like to create a DIY front vise (Moxon type) that will have its top flush with the benchtop.

 

[dzj]

100mm is fine. Don't overthink it, just get on with the build.
You'll be making a new bench a few years down the road anyway.
Good luck.

 

[marcros]

For handtools, I would say go for it if you have the 4" stock readily available. If not, work around what you can get.

If you plan to use holdfasts, you may need to counterbore any dogholes. They are designed to work on thinner tops, probably 2" +/-1/2"

 

[marcros]

100mm is fine. Don't overthink it, just get on with the build.
You'll be making a new bench a few years down the road anyway.
Good luck.

A very valid point, it isn't a forever bench. The second one will be more suited to exactly what you like and/or need. @# a beginner you have to guess at what might work for you.

 

[TheUnicorn]

what is the intended use for the bench, hand tools or power tools?

what is the difference in terms of the bench design?

 

[marcros]

I would suggest that something for power tools probably doesn't need to be quite as heavy duty. I asked because if the OP had said that it is predominantly for power tool usage then 4" thick might be overkill.

The other key difference tends to be height because for hand planing you want to get over the piece being planed more so they send to be lower.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I would suggest that something for power tools probably doesn't need to be quite as heavy duty. I asked because if the OP had said that it is predominantly for power tool usage then 4" thick might be overkill.

The other key difference tends to be height because for hand planing you want to get over the piece being planed more so they send to be lower.

thanks for explaining, certainly see the logic of the height

 

[marcros]

thanks for explaining, certainly see the logic of the height

If you are planning on building a bench, people worry too much about these things. As long as it is solid, design it around what timber you have or can get easily. Chris schwarz recommended southern yellow pine in one of his books because he could buy it from his local home depot. A few years back over here there was a craze for building this bench and much frustration about sourcing the same timber. Our construction timber may not look as pretty but it will do the job!

 

[paulrbarnard]

If you are planning on building a bench, people worry too much about these things. As long as it is solid, design it around what timber you have or can get easily. Chris schwarz recommended southern yellow pine in one of his books because he could buy it from his local home depot. A few years back over here there was a craze for building this bench and much frustration about sourcing the same timber. Our construction timber may not look as pretty but it will do the job!

Absolutely right on using whatever you can get easily. I built mine 20 years ago using 2x4 bought from Home Depot. Even the legs are made from two 2x4 glued together. The skirt and spreaders are 2x6.

I managed to build the top with a twist in it as I was working on a basement floor with very basic hand tools and did all the edge joints for the laminated top with the only plane I owned, a No 5. I did manage to flatten it with a lot of effort and removing about an inch from the high point. So much in fact the the bolts holding the skirt on almost hit the surface in that spot. I told myself I would replace the top with a better one just as soon as I could. Twenty years on it still in use and functions really well.

 

[Benchwayze]

How small is your idea of small? Chris Schwarz produced a DVD describing the build of a bench using hardwood worktop from Ikea. Three metres x 630mm x 40mm thick
This was cut in half and folded over intp a top just under 5 feet x 630 x 80mm. This would be about 3.5 inches thick. Current price for a 3m beech worktop is £145.00. The under frame could well be made of construction lumber. £160.00 would buy a 4 metre top. I think this would be app £400,00 total. A good price for what would be a stout, useful bench. I'd be happy at that.

John

 

[tibi]

My bench will be 1500x600 mm. I can buy the rough sawn beechwood for 100 mm thick top for around 30 € in the local lumberyard. But this is a temporary solution only. I will build a bigger bench in a few years, once I build a small workshop for myself.

 

[Ttrees]

Chris also built a gorgeous wee "Petite Roubo"
If the beech isn't that much difference in price then its a no brainer.