WORKBENCH EDGEING

[Matp1]

Hi

I am building a new workbench.

The frame I have build as a welded steel frame and the plan is to put 36mm MDF as the top.

I am looking to edge the MDF with some Maple. My local supplier can get 19mm or 32mm planed all round maple.

What thickness would you recommend?

 

[Sideways]

Maybe look for a different supplier ?
I have had a bench which used 2 thicknesses of 18mm ply for the top. That makes a strong bench. I wanted to be able to put dog holes along the front edge so I could push in dogs to make a planing stop or to clamp stuff between a fixed dog and a sideways clamp.
I chose a length of maple too because it is tough and the holes can be drilled very cleanly.
Mine was full thickness (so your 36mm and maybe 80mm wide).
I screwed down into the support, not back into the edge of the ply.
It was wide enough that I could fix a big record vice under it.
The front mounting holes of the vice were bolted all the way through the maple and the bold head counterbored to sit below the surface.
The back mounting holes of the vice were bolted through what will be your MDF, again recessed just enough that the bolt heads are below the surface.
You need a spacer between so that the vice sits low enough that it's top edge is below the surface of your bench.

These clamps are nice for a setup with dogs for clamping.
They can be used with but don't need through holes.
They have a shortish clamp range but well made.
Piher also make a good version and there are cheaper Chinese ones.

Ordinary festool MFT clamping methods only work on single thickness worktops and traditional holdfasts that do work great on thick bench tops need solid wood tops not ply or MDF

 

[Matp1]

Hi

Thanks for the quick reply.

I don't think I explained very well. I can buy the maple at any width i.e. I can get it planned to 36mm to match the MDF. But the thickness is only available at 19mm or 32mm.

This would be how 'wide' the trim piece would be round the bench top. I'm not sure what's best or if it even matters.

This is the bench I am building. Only the top to go now.

This is the edge dimension I'm asking about.

 

[Doug B]

If it's only to protect the edge of the MDF then I'd go for the 19mm I don't see what you'd gain going thicker & it will cost more

 

[Matp1]

Yes, it's just to protect the MDF edge and make it look nice. OK I will go for the 19mm Maple.

Would you have any advice on Medite Premier vs Medite MR MDF for the bench top?

I am looking at best options to secure the maple. Is glue and pocket screw a good route? I don't have a nail gun.

I'm not a wood worker so it's a case of I don't know what I don't know.

 

[Sideways]

I agree with Doug.
Thin is more than good enough. Frankly I'd treat the whole top as sacrificial, don't bother to edge, just seal the top and edges with thinned varnish which will soak in and seal it even more.

Yours looks like a general mechanics workbench. My suggestions were aimed at a bench built in a similar way but aimed towards woodwork with different needs for workholding.

 

[--Tom--]

how’re you fixing it to the edges? I’d go as thin as I could to fit a biscuit in.

Maple will cost a bit for only aesthetic value - I’d go for whatever you can get cheaply, and save nicer timber for the things you’re going to make on the workbench

 

[Doug B]

I try & use moisture resistant when ever possible I just find it better than the standard, as for attaching the maple I’d just glue & clamp it, a biscuit will help with alignment but if you’ve not got a cutter it’s easy enough to do without.

 

[pe2dave]

I went cheap with softwood edging, screwed on. It gets banged up quite a bit and is easy to change (and cheaper than good wood) every couple of years.

 

[Chubber]

Whatever that width 'should ' be, make it wide enough to take a 5-6" G cramp or a good proportion of the ubiquitous 'speed clamp'. You'll always want to hold something down firmly near the edge of the bench. A posh edge by all means but be sure a clamp can grip some of the meat of the top too.

 

[Matp1]

Good point about clamping close to the edge. I had that issue on my last bench as the overhang was too small. On this bench I should be able to clamp against the steel frame.

The maple is only £30 and I wanted that 'feel good factor' as this will be in my home workshop. Really just for tinkering about. (I have lots of steel benches at work for any heavy fabrication).

I have now seen that moisture resistant is only available in 30mm. I assume this should be plenty thick enough though?

As I don't really have many wood working tools, is there any advice on clever ways to clamp the edge up nice and tight and aligned whilst the glues goes off?

Thankyou for everyone's help.

 

[Doug B]

As I don't really have many wood working tools, is there any advice on clever ways to clamp the edge up nice and tight and aligned whilst the glues goes off?

Thankyou for everyone's help.

If your edges are true simply glue & masking tape the maple to edge of the board, if it needs a little more purchase utilise the weight of the MDF & stand it upright on the edge being glued.

 

[thetyreman]

I'd recommend using pin nails, cut the head off and drill the holes first to prevent any splitting, I have also used pine on plywood shelving for the lipping, hardwood is more durable though.

 

[Fergie 307]

You can get hockey stick moulding in aluminium. Takes the knocks and the curved top stops things rolling off onto the floor, unless of course you need it to be completely flat.

 

[William2020]

Don’t forget that you may want to clamp something vertically in your vice - you don’t want the maple edge protruding too far directly underneath the vice or it might get in the way.