Workbench design
- Thread starter MayKitt
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TheUnicorn
Established Member
I was given a bench by a neighbour recently, it has a tool tray, I find it a pain for the most part
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Sounds like thats a good reason for some ingenuity and evolution of the bench Unicorn 
I recall George Wilson mentioning that a lot of the benches at Williamsburg had their tool trays filled in or covered - I can't imagine finding any usefulness for such a thing and most people posting online (90% or so, seemingly) seem to have the same opinion. If you're sawing or planing, the tool tray would instantly become intertwined with filth.
Not sure where that design came from, if it was sort of a factory design for purpose-work? as in, if you had a few operations to do in a skilled production setting, like carving or joinery, I guess you could keep your tools in one of those along with the rest of the folks arranged around you doing the same with their bench. In a shop where you can store tools elsewhere.....not so great.
There is no rule against it and the OP specifically asked for good resources to understand bench design - so head this way to Chris's Lost Art Press and follow the link to the PDF:
https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/the-anarchists-workbench
Hi
When I update and modify my existing lashup I will be using a combination of Dog holes and Matchfit dovetails that will remove the need for any vices and there are some good examples to look at. There is Dennis at hooked on wood, , the Matchfit bench at and a more portable bench at . I think dogholes provide alignment, squareness and something to push against whilst the dovetail clamps do all the clamping. Look at this to see another good idea regards clamping .
When I update and modify my existing lashup I will be using a combination of Dog holes and Matchfit dovetails that will remove the need for any vices and there are some good examples to look at. There is Dennis at hooked on wood, , the Matchfit bench at and a more portable bench at . I think dogholes provide alignment, squareness and something to push against whilst the dovetail clamps do all the clamping. Look at this to see another good idea regards clamping .
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
A tool tray lends itself for ingenuity and options though,
You will likely not design anything to utilize it, if it's not there.
You will likely not design anything to utilize it, if it's not there.
I also really enjoyed Chris Schwartz's book so would also recommend. Personally I'm shooting for a roubo at some point. Some other options that look good are Paul Seller's plywood workbench and Rob Cosman's MDF bench. Both look to have lots of good features and are likely a lot easier and cheaper that some of the other builds.
billw
The Tattooed One
I'm building the workbench by Dennis from Hooked on Wood with a few minor modifications. I like the idea that it doesn't have built-in vices which gives more flexibility, and allows me to push units together from all sides to make larger work surfaces.
pe2dave
Established Member
I can see *a* use for the tray... but I've always found it a trap for sawdust and 'stuff' (and of little real use).
If you can store tools short term, handy, I think I would find a flat top more useful?
I can't fault the old record vices. I bought second hand, total refurb and it is so handy. Faced with oak, replaced twice in 8 years
it serves multiple uses.
Mine is an inch off the front of the bench. Just enough to trap fingers!
What do others think about the 'working surface' of the rear vice face? Flush with the bench side or ....
Doug B
Shy Tot
The Scott Landis book is a good reference for workbench design https://www.amazon.co.uk/Workbench-Book-Craftsmans-Workbenches-Woodworking/dp/1561582700 I believe it’s also available as a PDF.
As for tool wells from an early age I’ve used many bench’s that had them of differing styles but when I build my own bench I didn’t bother with one, can’t say I’ve missed it but it really is down to personal choice.
As for tool wells from an early age I’ve used many bench’s that had them of differing styles but when I build my own bench I didn’t bother with one, can’t say I’ve missed it but it really is down to personal choice.
Cabinetman
Established Member
The rear face of the vice in my opinion should be set back and buried into the thickness of the top so that in effect it doesn’t exist, then you are using the edge of your top, and apron in my case as the rear face.
I have a well on my bench, it’s not there to clutter up with tools and shavings even though it does sometimes, it’s there because for 99.9% of the time I only ever use the front 12 inches of worktop which is my 3 inch slab of beech, this went through my planer thicknesser, so in effect the reason I have ended up with a well is that I don’t need that solid top right across the depth of my bench, and lt made making the bench so much easier, occasionally when I have things that need to stretch back across the depth I have a big chunk of wood that fills in the well to the same height as the front plank.
My bench is L-shaped and fastened to 2 walls.
pe2dave
Established Member
@Cabinetman - Can you replace the rear vice face? I've had to (likely by misusing the vice).
And I'd lay odds you've trapped your fingers between vice and bench
Partly agree, use the first n inches for most of the work, but just occasionally I like to / have to lay
a larger part of work on the bench to fettle it.
Nice looking setup btw, especially the beech.
And I'd lay odds you've trapped your fingers between vice and bench
Partly agree, use the first n inches for most of the work, but just occasionally I like to / have to lay
a larger part of work on the bench to fettle it.
Nice looking setup btw, especially the beech.
