Workbench design

[Scrit]

Hi All

I'm getting ready to make mysef a couple of new workbenches in the Scandinavian style. I've sorted-out most of the details and even done some CAD drawings - I'll be using an end vice and a traditional U-type front vice with a single row of dogs - but I'd appreciate any feedback from users of Scandinavian/German-type benches about what works/doesn't work in their bought-in/home-made benches. I'm planning to make the tops out of beech as I'm sitting on what at times seems like the EU steamed beech mountain here, whilst the leg frame is going to be recycled pallet pine from steel sheet pallets (i.e. 4 x 3 inch sections, 20 feet long). Anyone got any for or against feelings about incorporating storage beneath the top? I'm all ears guys and gals.

Scrit

 

[Simoli]

Scrit, Here are my two benches.

They are significantly different. Here is a list of things I like from the two:

Diefenbach
- larger work surface
- storage below
- heavier frame
- height

Antique
- tool trough
- tail vice

Something neither bench has is the set of holes in the top that go with the face vice. If i were to build a bench I would incorporate all the items listed above.

More bench pics here

ps - I just learned the "here" trick today on this great site.

 

[jasonB]

I would go for two sets of dog holes because:
- better for holding wider panels
-you can hold round or triangular items using the end vice & 4 dogs (helps if they are round dogs so they swivel to the angle of workpiece)
- a few dogs in the back row give you something to push the workpiece against when biscuiting

I have a Sjoberg and have added a tool tray to the back, make the bottom of the tray removable then you can get a clamp under the bench if needed to hold work down.

I have the Sjoberg cupboards/draw unit on mine and find it very handy for tools etc that are often used. The draws come in handy to support one end of panels when using the front vice . I have also added dog holes along the front edge for the same reason.

Mine also has holdfast holes at either end.

Jason

 

[Alf]

Hey up, Scrit,

I've got an ECE heavy duty jobbie along the lines of Jim's antique one. Wouldn't change much, 'cos I'm used to it. Possibly it'd be nice to have graduated spacing of the dog holes in the vice so I don't have to wind it out the full dog hole spacing for an extra 1/8" - the number of turns needed is something I'd gladly change. I've also added a Veritas holdfast near the front vice. Used to have a load of drawers underneath but found it irritating that I always ended up wanting something from one when I had a door or summat clamped to the front apron, so now I have a kind of shelf/open cubby hole thing which suits me.

To be honest I reckon it doesn't matter what bench you have, you just get used to it and adapt to its foibles anyway - they all seem to have them! :roll:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Nick W]

Scrit,

I built my bench along the lines of the Klausz bench in Tolpin's The Workbench Book. I too would recommend two rows of dog holes, with round dogs, which makes clamping irregularly shaped objects so much easier as the dogs will rotate to fit. It also makes the making easier as you anly have to drill round holes after the top is made, rather than faffing around cutting the square ones. :wink:

The other change I made was to make the tool well Charlesworth-esque like this:

This gives easier cleaning obviously, but also increases the clamping opportunities by sliding partitions out of the way and passing clamps through the well. If you do this then any cabinets you install underneath should stop short of the well by a few inches to leave space for the clamps.

 

[GCR]

Scrit

One thing I would suggest is consideration of height - I find most benches too low. I have just added some raising blocks to mine and the height is now 965mm, which my back finds much more comfortable (I am 1800mm on a good day). If I were making a new bench I might be tempted to go a little higher, possibly another 20 - 25mm.

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Scrit

The ony thing I regret in my bench is that the front bench dog holes (2 rows of round holes) are too far from the front edge. I would prefer the front row to be about 50mm in from the bench edge.

 

[woodbloke]

Scrit - re bench hight, GCR wrote:

height - I find most benches too low

Jim Kingshott recommended that the correct bench height should be the users inside leg measurement plus about 50 or 75mm depending on preference. My bench is a copy of the one in 'Techniques of Furniture Making' by Joyce with a couple of Charlesworthian mods. I have a removable tool tray and an extra bracing piece at the top rear frame to further inhibit racking. Construction is from 75mm beech, m/t drawbolted, with a drawer and single shelf underneath - Rob

 

[mr]

I'm far from being an expert but having built my current bench with a single row of square dog holes along the front edge I will build my next (one day) with a double row (front and inner edge of tool well) of round holes.
Cheers Mike.

 

[Scrit]

Thank you for the input, gents

With a double row of dogs doesn't that imply that you neeed to have a full width end vice? If not, how do you clamp-up? If so, what sort of vices do you use?

Scrit

 

[Nick W]

With a double row of dogs doesn't that imply that you neeed to have a full width end vice? If not, how do you clamp-up?

Not necessarily, it just means that for holding e.g. circular objects you have three points of contact round the edge.

 

[engineer one]

scrit, i think the most important things are height,
and the charlesworth well, until i had tried it, i did not
realise how valuable it was.

mine which will be the tuit after the saw bench, so after the
bank holiday i hope,will have a 600 wide ikea beech top,
about 2000 long. the supports will be two mdf cabinets
400 deep, by about 600 wide, leaving a gap in the middle,
and room to walk around. i think the cab doors may well be
halved to ensure that if anything is overhanging,i can get to them.

and i am thinking about 1000 to the top at the beginning,
then if i don't like it, i will build floor boards i think.hate sawing
already made cabs. :lol: :lol:

what about a perforated area for power sanding?

i guess the rest depends upon what you are doing more of,
assembly, power tools, or hand tools. what about the famous replaceable
hardboard tops are they worth the effort?

presumably they will be built in 25-30 minutes to keep up with your
production schedule :lol: :twisted:

fun to have the chance again.

paul :wink: