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manicmover

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Hi, I have a 10x8 shed that I am placing on top of an already laid patio. The patio is not level. I cannot dig it up and level it. How can I level out the wobble in the six base panels that make the shed floor? Could I put down breeze blocks and lay the floor a top it?

New to this and a girlie. Need a guru to guide me through please.
 

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I'd buy some 6v8ft 2x2 treated timbers and put these across the 8ft width of the shed, level with pieces of packing - slate would be good, treated timber if not.
A builders merchant will have something if you ask?
 
Hi, I have a 10x8 shed that I am placing on top of an already laid patio. The patio is not level. I cannot dig it up and level it. How can I level out the wobble in the six base panels that make the shed floor? Could I put down breeze blocks and lay the floor a top it?

New to this and a girlie. Need a guru to guide me through please.

I assume you do not want to mark the the patio.

I would lay out dense concrete blocks so that they match the supporting timbers on the underside of the shed.
Get some DPM or the heaviest duty polythene from some packaging you can find and cut it so it is a bit bigger than the blocks laid on there side, say 235 by 460.
Mix dry no water about 2kg of cement to 8 kg of sharp sand or 1 to 5 by volume.

Lift the highest block put down a 10mm thick layer of the dry sand cement mix on top a bit of polythene or dpm. Then level it out and flatten with a float/ trowel or short bit of timber. With a spirit level check it is level in both directions. If not sprinkle a bit more mixture on the low sides and repeat.

Then sprinkle a very thin layer of sand cement mix over the the leveled mix and place the concrete block on top. Then put the spirit level on the block an give it a small taps to level it up in both directions.

Next do the same with the lowest ground level block ( or as far as a timber straight edge will reach). You will have to put a thicker layer than 10mm down. Cut a bit of timber 5mm thicker than the block, assume 105mm. Use the spirit level on top a straight edge on top of the first block and use the bit of timber to see if the mix is at the right level.

Then do as the first block but also check with the straight edge and level that they are at the same level.

Then do the rest. You can place the straight edge on the first (highest ground level) and second blocks (lowest ground level) to get the levels between rather having to hold the straight edge.

If / when you run out of mix you can mix some more. With no water in the mix the mix will be usable for two or three hours. Plus there will be less mess. If you mix with water you have an hour.

Next day check the levels. If a block is slightly low lift it a sprinkle some neat cement then replace.

Then leave for a few days, week if possible for the moisture in the air to get to the mix. hopefully you will then have a level set of blocks to put your shed on.
 
Hi, I have a 10x8 shed that I am placing on top of an already laid patio. The patio is not level. I cannot dig it up and level it. How can I level out the wobble in the six base panels that make the shed floor? Could I put down breeze blocks and lay the floor a top it?

New to this and a girlie. Need a guru to guide me through please.
Hello,
One would need to place the floor panels on some bearers to raise the floor off the ground. The bearers need to be made of treated wood otherwise the wood will rot. The size needs to be a minimum of 2 x 2 inch square, preferably 4 x 2 inch. Treated wood is often slightly green in colour and will have a rough sawn finish. You will need the lengths to be the same size as the width of your shed, 8 ft in your case. You will need to place these bearers about 18 inches apart so for a 10ft shed you will need 7 lengths, spaced equal distance apart. To level them you will need a bubble float which you can attach to anything long and flat, perhaps 3 to 4 ft long, you can attach it to anything you might have around, an old broom handle for example. Attach the level to it in level position when on something known to be level like your kitchen worktop. Alternatively there are many phone apps available, Stanley level app for example, then use your phone attached to a straight broom handle or piece of wood. If you have a timber yard get the wood ready cut to 8ft lengths. Once you have all this arrange the bearers in their position on the ground and use the level to see how much levelling is needed. You will need some packing material, your best option may be to buy some ready mixed cement which you can get in plastic tubs, and use it from the tub. Another option would be a small bag of ready mixed cement, which comes in a bag to which you add water. Other packing material would depend on how much levelling is needed, this could be off cuts of treated wood, slates or old roof tiles. If you were to use these they would need to be secured with a blob of cement to stop them moving over time. Begin your levelling from the lower side, checking with your level to see how the levels needs adjustment to the highest level. Use ready mixed cement at each end of the timber and once level add more cement to fill in any gaps. Once you have this bearer in place go to the other side and using a similar method get this one in place. One could use one of the bearers as a level with your bubble flat attached. Once all your bearers are in place and level, leave overnight for cement to harden and check again next day. Wood is going to move as it changes due to moisture content but will settle over time. Before you place your shed base on the bearers one should attach a damp proof membrane, this is available as a roll of black plastic which you fasten to the top of your bearers, this will prevent moisture from the ground spoiling the floor. Use some galvanised felt nails to attach it securely. Position your shed base on the bearers and secure with some stainless steel screws. Assemble your shed. Once assembled finish off the gap at base level where your bearers are with a piece of gravel board and paint to match shed.
Regards
 
I think I would be going down the route of adjustable pedestals. Something like these:

https://www.roofingoutlet.co.uk/products/dd-adjustable-pedestals
The only tricky bit is ordering the pedestals with the required range because you will need to first work out how out of level you are at each part of the base. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level and a tape measure.

Martin
 
Use a spirit or laser level to see how uneven and sloping it is and mark the highest spot . You will then know how thick the biggest piece of packing will need to be. For packing you can use plastic spacers, broken slate or tiles, basically anything thin that won't degrade in the wet. Start laying a floor panel on the high spot and level that with the packing, then lay the adjoining panels and level them to the first one.
 
what ever u do pls allow ventilation underneath....
as wood soon rots, even the treated stuff.....
U dont say what ur doing in the shed.....storing junk or working....
this will help decide on the sizes of the joists.....
I would always go the next size up.....but perhaps cost will come into it.....
Now what are u gonna make the shed out off.....?
will it be a kit type shed that just needs assembling....?
also there's a great need for guttering and getting rid of the water.....
many sheds meet their maker premeturely because of water....
Lots of questions with loads'a variables I'm afraid.....
Lastley for now do u have a decent long spirit level....?
good luck....
u dont say where u are, perhaps someone on here with that kinda experience may help u with the first joist....
 
Hello,
One would need to place the floor panels on some bearers to raise the floor off the ground. The bearers need to be made of treated wood otherwise the wood will rot. The size needs to be a minimum of 2 x 2 inch square, preferably 4 x 2 inch. Treated wood is often slightly green in colour and will have a rough sawn finish. You will need the lengths to be the same size as the width of your shed, 8 ft in your case. You will need to place these bearers about 18 inches apart so for a 10ft shed you will need 7 lengths, spaced equal distance apart. To level them you will need a bubble float which you can attach to anything long and flat, perhaps 3 to 4 ft long, you can attach it to anything you might have around, an old broom handle for example. Attach the level to it in level position when on something known to be level like your kitchen worktop. Alternatively there are many phone apps available, Stanley level app for example, then use your phone attached to a straight broom handle or piece of wood. If you have a timber yard get the wood ready cut to 8ft lengths. Once you have all this arrange the bearers in their position on the ground and use the level to see how much levelling is needed. You will need some packing material, your best option may be to buy some ready mixed cement which you can get in plastic tubs, and use it from the tub. Another option would be a small bag of ready mixed cement, which comes in a bag to which you add water. Other packing material would depend on how much levelling is needed, this could be off cuts of treated wood, slates or old roof tiles. If you were to use these they would need to be secured with a blob of cement to stop them moving over time. Begin your levelling from the lower side, checking with your level to see how the levels needs adjustment to the highest level. Use ready mixed cement at each end of the timber and once level add more cement to fill in any gaps. Once you have this bearer in place go to the other side and using a similar method get this one in place. One could use one of the bearers as a level with your bubble flat attached. Once all your bearers are in place and level, leave overnight for cement to harden and check again next day. Wood is going to move as it changes due to moisture content but will settle over time. Before you place your shed base on the bearers one should attach a damp proof membrane, this is available as a roll of black plastic which you fasten to the top of your bearers, this will prevent moisture from the ground spoiling the floor. Use some galvanised felt nails to attach it securely. Position your shed base on the bearers and secure with some stainless steel screws. Assemble your shed. Once assembled finish off the gap at base level where your bearers are with a piece of gravel board and paint to match shed.
Regards
Thank you for a very comprehensive overview. This is very helpful and appreciated 👍
 
Use a spirit or laser level to see how uneven and sloping it is and mark the highest spot . You will then know how thick the biggest piece of packing will need to be. For packing you can use plastic spacers, broken slate or tiles, basically anything thin that won't degrade in the wet. Start laying a floor panel on the high spot and level that with the packing, then lay the adjoining panels and level them to the first one.
Thank you for the guidance. I am seeing a theme appear from the thread and now can see a way forward. 👍
 
what ever u do pls allow ventilation underneath....
as wood soon rots, even the treated stuff.....
U dont say what ur doing in the shed.....storing junk or working....
this will help decide on the sizes of the joists.....
I would always go the next size up.....but perhaps cost will come into it.....
Now what are u gonna make the shed out off.....?
will it be a kit type shed that just needs assembling....?
also there's a great need for guttering and getting rid of the water.....
many sheds meet their maker premeturely because of water....
Lots of questions with loads'a variables I'm afraid.....
Lastley for now do u have a decent long spirit level....?
good luck....
u dont say where u are, perhaps someone on here with that kinda experience may help u with the first joist....
Hi thank you for getting back. The shed is for me to have a space to learn woodworking. I do have a spirit level. So my woodworking tools will go in it. Eventually once the billyoh flat pack shed is up I will get power put to it. Because the base is in six separate panels i nave to screw them together. On placing them on the patio food print it became obvious the ground had high and low points that distributed across the panels. If I level a panel at a time I then have the issue of how to join them. If I join them it is a big heavy unit to get under and try and pack. It’s been a bit of a head scratcher for a newbie. My brother past away and I so want to learn to use his tools. Never got to play DIY as a kid. The blumin shed is going up one way or another. Thanks for your guidance.
 
glad to hear it.....
it's all very basic really.....
after finding the highest point....
get the first joist set and the rest will follow......
sorry to hear about ur brother.....
but u'll get to think of him when using his tools.....
I have been gifted a few tools over the years that I treasure above all else......
never got any of my dads because of family issues....
carry on the good work....
what ever u need to know just ask.....
tons of good experience on here......ur not alone now.....
 
How sheltered is your patio area. Here if a shed or building isn't heavily weighted or anchored to the ground they blow away. If in a windy spot it is something you need to take into consideration.

Pete
 
Hi thank you for getting back. The shed is for me to have a space to learn woodworking. I do have a spirit level. So my woodworking tools will go in it. Eventually once the billyoh flat pack shed is up I will get power put to it. Because the base is in six separate panels i nave to screw them together. On placing them on the patio food print it became obvious the ground had high and low points that distributed across the panels. If I level a panel at a time I then have the issue of how to join them. If I join them it is a big heavy unit to get under and try and pack. It’s been a bit of a head scratcher for a newbie. My brother past away and I so want to learn to use his tools. Never got to play DIY as a kid. The blumin shed is going up one way or another. Thanks for your guidance.
You could level the panels by laying them side by side on the patio. Just stuck the packing pieces to the patio using no more nails, and make the packing pieces big enough to stick out from one panel under its neighbour, if that makes sense. Once you have everything level then you can lift them up, screw them together and pop it back down on the pre positioned spacers. If you use the solvent free no more nails then it will come off the patio fairly easily at a later date of necessary.
 

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