woodrat users

[marcros]

Hi

Do any woodrat users have a method/jig for cutting accurate mitres? I see that there is a more box but I don't understand how it works. I want to tidy some up that I have cut but are not quite perfect enough for a glue up.

option 2 is a ramped shooting board, before that is suggested. I would need to build one first though.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Harbo]

I have a Rat but never tried it for mitres so cannot help there.
Shooting Boards are a doddle to make and I cannot see why you have to make a ramped one.

Rod

 

[Beau]

Not done it but would be easy. Build a T section which will locate in the guid rail. Fix an appropriate piece of MDF to the T section and clamp the MDF between the cams. Now you can fit whatever you want to the MDF. A fence at 45 degrees and some toggle clamps would do the mitres. Got to dash now but will try to upload some pics if need be.

 

[custard]

I use a Router Boss as a kind of versatile, multi-purpose jig for compound chair joints. It's not exactly the same as a Woodrat but it's pretty similar, and I believe the two machines share quite a few extras. If you go to about 6:50 in this video you see one of many possible mitre arrangements. I'm not certain but I think this is one of the shared accessory jigs,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zc0kcDOTyv4

I use this particular jig quite often and it works well enough in terms of cut quality. The problem if you were cutting mitred bevels for say boxes or picture frames, is that it doesn't fix the length of the component. Unless the two opposite pieces are identical in length the mitre joint will still be gappy, even if the mitre itself is perfect. For this reason I prefer to cut these type of mitres on a table saw, where it's easier to set up a length stop.

Without a suitable table saw a shooting board is probably your best bet. You'd have the same issue with getting identical lengths for opposite sides, but it's easier to trim off a thou with a shooting board than with anything else. The other thing about shooting mitres is that there's still a bit of a learning curve, the knack is in holding the workpiece absolutely fast throughout the cut. During a long grain cut the plane tends to pull itself tight to the workpiece, but with an end grain cut the plane tends to push the workpiece away so it has a tendency to jump out of the cut or run slightly off from 90 degrees. If your iron is cambered (and they almost all are, even if you're not aware of it) then use the lateral adjuster to align the apex of the camber with the centre of the workpiece.

 

[marcros]

I like the router boss jig, just what I would like but a bit too much money for now.

somewhere, I have this http://www.veritastools.com/Content/*** ... 1501EN.pdf which would avoid the camber issue. I think that the shooting board is the economical way to go.

 

[custard]

somewhere, I have this http://www.veritastools.com/Content/*** ... 1501EN.pdf which would avoid the camber issue. I think that the shooting board is the economical way to go.

That's an interesting option. Many cabinet makers use something very similar for shooting the edges of saw cut veneers.

Incidentally, I don't think the Router Boss is all that much of an improvement on the WoodRat, some of the supposed advantages, like the laser pointer and dust extraction, really aren't that great.

 

[marcros]

any recommendations for a shooting board for mitres? there seems to be this type: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... f3db76.jpg (credit to Derek Cohen), a similar version that the plane runs at the top, or this type http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/wp- ... CN7813.jpg

if relevant, I want to use it for box sides- typically 12-15mm thick (max), 300mm long (max). should I ever want to do anything much bigger, I would worry about the board for that at a later date.

 

[Glynne]

Hi Mark,
This is my (cheaper) version of the second link you posted.
I make mostly boxes and usually cut the mitres on my table saw and then refine on the shooting board: -

and some examples of the outcome (after gooves cut for splines)

I do have a Veritas shooting plane which has to be one of my best (if not expensive) purchases but it makes a huge difference to any shooting I need to do and I would thoroughly recommend one.
For information, the ash is 16.5mm thick.

 

[SVB]

Like you coloured spot marking - neat idea.

 

[custard]

any recommendations for a shooting board for mitres? there seems to be this type: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... f3db76.jpg (credit to Derek Cohen), a similar version that the plane runs at the top, or this type http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/wp- ... CN7813.jpg

if relevant, I want to use it for box sides- typically 12-15mm thick (max), 300mm long (max). should I ever want to do anything much bigger, I would worry about the board for that at a later date.

I've used both of these style of shooting board. I find the first style easier to adjust for accuracy (and almost all shooting boards will need some adjustment, if not immediately then later) but work holding can be a faff. I find the second style easier to use but harder to adjust.

There's no right or wrong answer to this, it's down to personal preferences and individual circumstances. For example if your grip is no longer as strong as it once was, or you have access to really good quality machinery to cut the components, then the second style may have the advantage.