Wooden plane builds anyone?

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Don't wanna start a fight, but it's time to discuss iron thickness everyone :roll:
I plan to just use single irons, at least for my scrub plane I'm sure I will do so. I noticed all the examples previously posted have MASSIVE, CHUNKY blades. Now, how thick does a single iron have to be in order to be resistant to chatter? Better yet, for those of you who are really good researchers, could you please find some old literature on iron thickness? I'm dead set on getting old irons from eBay, most of which are just about as thin as Bailey irons. So I really hope that something that thin will suffice...

Sam
 
Anyone know a good plane iron maker to look for? gandm on eBay has a lot of J.Herring and Isaac Greaves on sale.
Sam
 
A scrub doesn't need an overly thick blade. My German wooden scrub has something in the 2.5 to 3mm range. I also have used a Stanley Handyman as a scrub, which works just fine and has the standard Stanley iron.
 
Rhossydd":oy5794at said:
The absolute bible for making these planes is 'Making and Mastering wooden planes' by David Finck. Sadly it's out of print and only sells for silly money secondhand. Maybe a thorough Google search might turn up a pirate PDF of it ?

A search might turn up David Finck (himself!) selling signed copies from his own website for 25 bucks.

http://www.davidfinck.com/book.htm

BugBear
 
I have one of those Herring blades from the same supplier. It's a very good blade. I don't notice anything different between that and some of my good quality old and new aftermarket blades (and I have a lot). Which means it's good enough. Very rare but you can always end up with a dud. Just send it back. The only difference I noticed with that particular blade was how seriously hard it was at the edge. More like HSS. A few sharpenings and it settled down to a steel that felt a bit more normal.
 
What does the Finck book tell you that isn't already available on all of the Plane making websites? These are relatively simple objects. It's not as though there are fifty cogs to worry about.
 
MIGNAL":3k11fxod said:
What does the Finck book tell you that isn't already available on all of the Plane making websites?
It puts it all in one consistent place. It actually covers more than just simple plane building too.
Plus there's a lot more detail and, if you need it, exact step by step instructions. As example the site referenced above doesn't cover how to adjust the plane's mouth or how to make the pin if you haven't got a lathe.

It's a decent book, I'd like my own copy at the right price, but $50 is too much for me at the moment.
 
I have the Finck book and I think it needs a good edit, its like watching Pulp Fiction it jumps around all over the place.
You could cut out a lot of the machine setup parts.
Its good but I haven't looked at it for years.

Pete
 
If anybody can track down a copy at a reasonable price, "Making Traditional Wooden Planes" by John M. Whelan is well worth having on the bookshelves on the subject of Western-style planes. It covers the characteristics of a good plane, how the old planes were made, tuning and using wooden planes, then goes on to describe the making of a laminated plane, a two-piece construction jack plane, a smoother and jointer by the classical one-piece body method, bullnose plane, boxmaker's (low angle) plane, stop-chamfer and spill planes, side escapement planes (hollows and rounds), several complex moulding planes including the springing and boxing, a wedge-arm fillester, plough planes, the making of screw arms and their fences, spokeshaves and a short section on making plane irons. There's also a useful bibligraphy and refences to several souces of supply of materials, but as the book was published in 1996, things may have changed a bit on that score since.

The how-to descriptions are clear and concise, and benefit hugely from the fact that Mr Whelan made all the planes he describes himself. The experience does come across in the writing, and in the very clear illustrations.

One minor point about tools - he mentions floats, and uses several. They were not commercially available at the time he wrote the book, so he made his own (the few antique ones that cropped up being in rather poor condition). He makes the interesting and useful observation that if made of good tool steel, they will work satisfactorily in an unhardened state, being hard enough to complete several planes before needing resharpening.
 
Was looking at some files and realized that some of those files for aluminum seem to have teeth suitable for wood. Namely the dreadnought/millenicut and the magicut. As I understand it, floats are just files that don't clog on wood, so these files are pretty much just cheap, unsharpenable floats... Anyone tried them?
 
J_SAMa":3da1rqyi said:
Was looking at some files and realized that some of those files for aluminum seem to have teeth suitable for wood. Namely the dreadnought/millenicut and the magicut. As I understand it, floats are just files that don't clog on wood, so these files are pretty much just cheap, unsharpenable floats... Anyone tried them?


Yep, I use them all the time they work very well.

Pete
 

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