Wood gules

[Nippychippy]

Hi guys what's type of wood glue does everyone use and why? I
I just use the store on brand wood glue we think the frost has gotten to it and its not to good on Mdf
Same with evo stick I see on tv and mags the people use use tytebond so I looked it there is so many kinds
:shock: Would like to hear what you guys have to say


Cheers rob

 

[carlb40]

I use titebond 2 at the moment for most work. I tried the gorilla pva glue from screwfix, but it never impressed me. Took too long to go off and had one joint fail. So that is off my list.

At work i use PU glue on occasion where speed of cure is needed, otherwise it stays in the car.

Just started using resintite/cascamite and really like it so far in the limited time ( a few weeks ) i have been using it.

With mdf i would if possible always reinforce joints with biscuits etc. But as long as you have good square edges, and apply glue to both edges it should be ok.

 

[marcros]

I use the tool station d4 stuff- ever build I think it is and buy a few months worth. This one is only in 1l anyway I think. Titebond was at least double the price although good stuff (1 had an 8oz one of that) before I bought the tool staton one. I tend to use hot hide glue now as glue of choice where it is suitable because in its dry form it has no shelf life, is good for venerating and you can do run joints.

 

[marcus]

Hide glue for 'proper' heirloomy furniture
Cascamite for everyday furniture/built ins
Titebond for workshop use — jigs etc

I used cascamite over pva type glues because it sticks to itself (since I make more mistakes than I should this can be useful) and has a nice long open time. And it is a pretty good gap filler, which certainly doesn't do any harm.

 

[dickm]

+1 for hide glue and cascamite for proper glueing jobs!

But cheap PVA for general workshop use.

 

[marcus]

Oh and cascamite doesn't creep like PVA can....

 

[G S Haydon]

The three of choice for me...

PVA D4 Grade is a great general purpose glue for joinery

PU D4 for when strength and fast cure time are needed (appropriate gloves to prevent skin contact)

Cascamite very rarely. After doing a COSHH assessment it was the most scary out of the three.

 

[marcus]

After doing a COSHH assessment it was the most scary out of the three.

You are right there, and it's a big minus point.... I always wear a mask and gloves when handling it.

 

[sbk]

screwfix pva for general jobs and titebond for anything decent.

 

[Nippychippy]

Got a a trail pack of titebond products from axminister was on special 34£ down to 14£ Very impressed with it making a oak knife block so ill get it to some proper use

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've used title bond CA Glue. Avoid it like the plague. It's absolute. S.H.I.T.E. it takes literally hours to cure and the bond is like water. I was extremely disappointed.

Their pva range is fine but overly expensive in my view.

 

[Unib]

Used to use Titebond II most of the time but finding Wudcare PVA 5 Min pretty good at the moment. Use Cascamite when PVA isn't suitable and D3 cross linked PVA (or Cascamite) for veneering

 

[Baldhead]

Titebond II and cascamite, never had a joint failure. In the past I have used cheap exterior PVA but it was rubbish.

BH

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Everbuild D4 for virtually everything. Once in a blue moon on structural stuff, Polyurethane.

 

[Jelly]

Mainly PVA, I have lots of random containers full of Wurth D4 PVA, which was made freely available to me by work who were using a pallet of 25kg drums of it each month.

I would use hide glue, but it's really rather faffy, and I don't really need the benefits that it confers.

I also use West Systems Epoxy or G-Flex Epoxy sometimes for bonding metal in place, but only because I have it kicking around for working with composite boats.