Wood burning stove for the workshop?

[jimbob01]

I’ve for some years been somewhat hooked on stoves …

I’ve fabricated more than 10.

The first ones I did were gas bottle then rectangular then square stoves with simple holes for air intake

I realised after making a few that I wanted them to burn cleaner as I liked glass in the door.

I found it necessary to find a way to channel the incoming air through the stove so it gets preheated…

Also I found a secondary air intake was crucial to reignite any smoke at the top of the stove trying to escape up the chimney.

I also found the firebox shape and size v important in relation also to the diameter of the glue pipe.

Insulation in the firebox made the box hotter then when up to temperature some gasification can occur..

It’s quite a science I think…

I am still learning and experimenting

 

[jimbob01]

If anyone is interested this is a picture of the last one I made from off it’s of stainless plate and some 10 mm mild steel for the top plate

 

[Jameshow]

I’ve for some years been somewhat hooked on stoves …

I’ve fabricated more than 10.

The first ones I did were gas bottle then rectangular then square stoves with simple holes for air intake

I realised after making a few that I wanted them to burn cleaner as I liked glass in the door.

I found it necessary to find a way to channel the incoming air through the stove so it gets preheated…

Also I found a secondary air intake was crucial to reignite any smoke at the top of the stove trying to escape up the chimney.

I also found the firebox shape and size v important in relation also to the diameter of the glue pipe.

Insulation in the firebox made the box hotter then when up to temperature some gasification can occur..

It’s quite a science I think…

I am still learning and experimenting

Show us some pictures.

I fancy making one from a discontinued small calor gas bottle? With door and hot plate!!

 

[jimbob01]

I like a big door as it lights the room somewhat

 

[Jameshow]

Top job!

What welder do you use??

I have an arc which I presume is suitable.

 

[jimbob01]

This cubic shape ignited the timber inside very evenly

 

[jimbob01]

Hi Jameshow I think I used a tig welder on some of this one and also a stick welder

 

[jimbob01]

This one was one of the first ones I made but it’s not as efficient as the previous one but it does heat water in 2 directions by thermo siphon and has a pizza oven above

 

[jimbob01]

Now this is one of my favourite designs as it uses so little wood yet burns v hot… blue in fact It’s only a door across

 

[jimbob01]

Another angle

 

[jimbob01]

Should say only a foot across

 

[Jacob]

The Sumo is different from the boxes or cylinder shapes.
The pyramid shape means a full stove of sawdust burns really well, see earlier posts.
Air flow is free via gaps around the door and the glass but controlled by the flue outlet damper and moving the ash can in/out.
The door is about half the front which slopes about 45º - effectively top loading.
The glass faces up and so needs no bars etc to keep it from the fire.
It's also wide and can burn long pieces sideways on.
No fire bars or grate below but just a pivoting lengthways plate with gaps each side.
Burns big stuff slowly if required, but I tend to split it small for a smaller, hotter, more efficient burn - this way it gets hot and shifts the room temperature very quickly if wanted. Ditto a fill of sawdust - burns fast and hot from the top with the dampers open, smoulders slow with them closed.
It's the shape more than anything.
No cast iron or firebricks so quite maintenance free, indestructible, but haven't tried it with coal which I guess would be hotter.

 

[Jameshow]

What welder do you use?

Now this is one of my favourite designs as it uses so little wood yet burns v hot… blue in fact It’s only a door across

Lovely!!

Are you a welder by training?

I might have a go!

 

[jimbob01]

I’ve learnt just having a go really and then made some big things which gets the practice in…. The gas bottle ones could be good ….lots of work to make a really good one though… portholes are good for the doors and you can just replace the glass with a circle of clear ceramic… I’ve found cube shape fireboxes to be very efficient providing a pre heated secondary air intake is added (like some channel welded top to bottom at the rear ) with air entering above the fire . These work very well.

 

[Robbo3]

If you can't use a battery a decent 20a power supply is a must. A lesser one will either not start the heater or not allow it to fire up.
EG - DC 5V/12V/24V Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply Transformer LED Strip | eBay

That link doesn't work.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162562112782

 

[Bodger7]

That's exactly my set up using an old battery . More than enough life in it to run the heater .

I have now ordered a new battery to replace the 7 year old one in my car so that I have an "old one" for my diesel heater. I was concerned at having the trickle charger effectively connected directly to the heater (although I don't know why) but I am reassured that others have operated this system without problems. Hope to be up and running in a couple of days,

 

[Jameshow]

I have now ordered a new battery to replace the 7 year old one in my car so that I have an "old one" for my diesel heater. I was concerned at having the trickle charger effectively connected directly to the heater (although I don't know why) but I am reassured that others have operated this system without problems. Hope to be up and running in a couple of days,

I doubt the trickle charger would have the Amps to start the heater?

Hence the need for the battery to give the needed juice during start up?

 

[IZZY]

I have now ordered a new battery to replace the 7 year old one in my car so that I have an "old one" for my diesel heater. I was concerned at having the trickle charger effectively connected directly to the heater (although I don't know why) but I am reassured that others have operated this system without problems. Hope to be up and running in a couple of days,

I know this a "suck eggs" comment but keep the battery topped up during the summer .

 

[Tony Works Wood]

Brave man doing the near impossible with difficulty!
I've done the same in the past - trying to burn sawdust in a turtle stove. Basically not possible except in small quantities.
I can pack the Sumo tight with sawdust - 3 to 4 coke hods. The heap burns as fast or as slow as I want, by working the top damper. With slow burning the heap just smoulders away all over its surface.
I think there's scope here for a sawdust burner design based on the pyramid or cone, where the shape roughly matches the shape of a free standing pile of sawdust.

View attachment 152203

Hi Jacob. As you know you can't just throw the sawdust on and smother the flames. If you do don't open the door to look inside. Woosh no eyebrows lol.

 

[johnnyb]

love the woodburners jimbos made. it really is a science. my house burner a portway2 is very efficient achieving secondary burn quickly once it reaches that the heat is amazing( the bottom vent is off and the top vent is closed to nearly zero.)the workshop stove is a big box with a baffle but really basic air intake. IMHO woodburners need to be steel and airtight. with firebrick lining and secondary air intake( pre heated air above the fire.and a thick baffle to slow the smoke. a glass door otherwise you don't know what's happening inside.

cast iron fires with outlet baffles are not the same a leak air like crazy. the flue baffle is operating in the wrong place.



































































my workshop stove ibasiacally a big box