Wolf Drill chuck removal

[Knights83]

Hello there,

I recently acquired an old Wolf 'Heavy Duty' drill. It works fine, but could do with a bit of general TLC and cleaning. However, I cannot work out how to remove the chuck. I tried the method of putting an allen key in it and hitting it with a hammer to loosen it, but that only seemed to bend the allen key. The chuck does not appear to have a retaining screw holding it in place.

Removing the front of the drill reveals the gears, one of which has a screw which (even though it's very short) I imagine might be holding the gear in place somehow.

Does anyone have any experience with these drills, and could point me in the right direction here?

Thanks!

 

[Bingy man]

Given it’s age not to mention the rust on the chuck it’s probably not going to come off anytime soon- try soaking the chuck in penetrating release oil overnight and see what happens..

 

[Housey210]

opposite hand thread? I guess you tightened the allen key in the chuck, any screw looking down through jaws?

 

[user 35906]

The biggest allen key that will fit in the chuck, the drill secured as solidly as possible (wrapped in a towel and laying on the floor?) and a good sharp whack. It should be a right hand thread in the chuck. It's the screw sometimes fitted in the back of the chuck to prevent unscrewing in reverse that's usually left hand thread. I guess this drill has no reverse so no need of the securing screw.

 

[Housey210]

are wolf still going, would be my line of search. As broken down i would let that chuck soak for a few weeks in a solution of penetrating fluid. I tried the BBC repair shop tip, mixed 50/50 ATF power transmission fluid and acetone, and was impressed. Bit of heat might help too, not to hot, heat and re-dunk. (for me, seized 200mm bolt on rear suspension knuckle, tried everything heat, press and wd but would not budge. Left in bucket of this mix for two weeks removing to tickle with heat gun and just pressed out when back on press)

 

[throbscottle]

I once had an old Wolf drill, and had the same kind of problem removing the chuck, for the same reason! Turned out they used a tapered fitting (most likely JT - Jacobs Taper).

So you just need to wedge it from behind (ideally in opposite directions, simultaneously) and whack the wedge. I can't remember what I actually used, but it worked anyway. Removal is actually fairly easy once you know how. Possibly there's a proper tool for this, I don't know.

Excellent drill - makes me sad that I no longer have it. Beats the pants off modern ones!

 

[fenhayman]

More powerful than my arms as a 14 year old!!

Excellent drill - makes me sad that I no longer have it. Beats the pants off modern ones!

 

[throbscottle]

More powerful than my arms as a 14 year old!!

My imagination is running round in circles....

 

[Knights83]

Given it’s age not to mention the rust on the chuck it’s probably not going to come off anytime soon- try soaking the chuck in penetrating release oil overnight and see what happens..

Thanks for the replies, everyone!

Cheers, Bingy man - I'll try that. When you say "soak", does it literally need to be submersed in oil, or is regularly giving it a spray sufficient?

 

[Knights83]

opposite hand thread? I guess you tightened the allen key in the chuck, any screw looking down through jaws?

No, no screw inside, unfortunately!

There is *something* in there - you can kind of make it out in the photo in my original post. The very bottom of the chuck interior has a kind of circular recess that almost looks like a pin of some kind. It might just be the way the chuck is constucted, of course. There isn't any purchase for a screwdriver or allen key, anyway.

 

[Knights83]

are wolf still going, would be my line of search. As broken down i would let that chuck soak for a few weeks in a solution of penetrating fluid. I tried the BBC repair shop tip, mixed 50/50 ATF power transmission fluid and acetone, and was impressed. Bit of heat might help too, not to hot, heat and re-dunk. (for me, seized 200mm bolt on rear suspension knuckle, tried everything heat, press and wd but would not budge. Left in bucket of this mix for two weeks removing to tickle with heat gun and just pressed out when back on press)

Thanks, this sounds like a good way to go. I'll give it a try!

 

[Knights83]

I once had an old Wolf drill, and had the same kind of problem removing the chuck, for the same reason! Turned out they used a tapered fitting (most likely JT - Jacobs Taper).

So you just need to wedge it from behind (ideally in opposite directions, simultaneously) and whack the wedge. I can't remember what I actually used, but it worked anyway. Removal is actually fairly easy once you know how. Possibly there's a proper tool for this, I don't know.

Excellent drill - makes me sad that I no longer have it. Beats the pants off modern ones!

Thanks, throbscottle. That's interesting, and it would follow (probably) that they used the same fitting. Is there any way that I can tell (by looking at it) if it's tapered or threaded? I'm up for giving it a try, but it seems a rather violent method to apply to a 50-odd year old bit of kit if it turns out not to be a tapered fitting!

 

[Housey210]

wire brush the top edge of the chuck, should be some ref numbers stamped on there, may be a clue to screw or taper!
if jacobs -- their catalogue online as too this on youtube-

 

[Bingy man]

Thanks for the replies, everyone!

Cheers, Bingy man - I'll try that. When you say "soak", does it literally need to be submersed in oil, or is regularly giving it a spray sufficient?

You can try spraying it but it might need a bit more persuasion. W d penetrating release oil will work its way into the chuck .
It’s better than normal oil but you may need to apply it several times throughout the day - sometimes a short sharp shock will help it to free up but you need to be careful ️ of course..

 

[joshvegas]

There is *something* in there - you can kind of make it out in the photo in my original post. The very bottom of the chuck interior has a kind of circular recess that almost looks like a pin of some kind. It might just be the way the chuck is constucted, of course. There isn't any purchase for a screwdriver or allen key, anyway.

That sounds consistent with a Jacobs taper.

The chuck has a hole all the way through the whole is tapered to accept a Jacobs taper.

If you Google chuck Arbor you will see what I mean but I doubt it has the second taper to fit the machine (such as a morse taper)

I think it sounds like I know what I am talking about but I might not be.

 

[DRC]

Have you seen this I hope the copied link works.
https://www.google.com/search?q=rem...#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:a952c5fb,vid:ByRXJeYf51M

 

[Phill05]

Removing the front of the drill reveals the gears, one of which has a screw which (even though it's very short) I imagine might be holding the gear in place somehow.

Have you tried removing the screw from the gear that one might be locking the chuck to the gear?.

By the way I have the very same drill in the shed but not seen it for a few years.

 

[Grandad455]

Have you tried removing the screw from the gear that one might be locking the chuck to the gear?.

By the way I have the very same drill in the shed but not seen it for a few years.

Hi, Interesting article. I have a Mason Master 1500, made by Perkins & Smith. A BURMAH company. (Burmah Oil, former owners of the Rawlplug brand.) I have the original parts diagram and it shows the chuck fits onto the shaft which goes into the gear case. Having watched that video on chuck removal, I would imagine that my chuck is fitted the same way, it is a Jacobs chuck and I have tried to remove it without any luck. But as the drill now throws the trip after a few minutes running, I will need to dismantle the whole thing. Was trying to work out how old it was, late 70's possibly early 80's.
Word of warning, my drill and probably yours are low speed and if you use the trigger lock and get a jam, it will throw you over, no problems at all. (Been thrown a couple of times, didn't learn after the first fall)

 

[Knights83]

wire brush the top edge of the chuck, should be some ref numbers stamped on there, may be a clue to screw or taper!
if jacobs -- their catalogue online as too this on youtube-

Thanks Housey - there is something written there so I'll give it a brush as you suggest and take a look!

 

[Knights83]

Have you tried removing the screw from the gear that one might be locking the chuck to the gear?.

By the way I have the very same drill in the shed but not seen it for a few years.

Yeah, I've tried it, hoping it would do exactly that. It didn't allow to be remove the chuck, but maybe just because it is so firmly secured. I'll probably remove the screw (again) before trying some of the methods suggested above.