WIP first to last pics.

[John. B]

These are segmented mills made from Beech interleaved with Sapele.
The centre cross pieces of Sapele are cut and thinned to 5mm, the outer parts are veneers.
In order to keep the inserts square and straight I had to make this jig.Angle iron. Drilled, filed, a bit of welding 8mm studding makes up the jig.




Glued and clamped up, left overnight.



Next day take off the clamps.



true up the sides on the disc sander.



cut off the top, mount the bottom in the long hole boring jig (also shop made)




Mount between centres, put a spigot on one end for chucking.
Then on with the lathe steady (also shop made) for turning the bottom for the mechanism.



A small jam chuck to go into the bottom so I can reverse chuck.



Nicely shaped, now for the top.



First drill out the hole




turn it to a cylinder and put on a spigot



After turning the spigot step, joined the two halves to blend the top with the bottom.



Sand off, remount the top on the chuck to form the the top inset.





Sand off.







Put them back together to make sure they blend.
Thin parting tool 1/16" to scribe the lines.



That's another one done.

John. B

 

[Bodrighy]

I must confess to a certain admiration. You are covering two arteas of turning that I haven't had a go at, segmentation and pepper mills. Basically as both involve measuring and faffing about. Guess I am basically lazy. Do you plan the pattern out prior to cutting the pieces or is there an element of surprise involved?

Pete

 

[John. B]

Pete,
Planned out on graph paper so all the measurements are there to be followed ( don't forget there is a pair of these)
occasionally If I'm not attentive I'll have a dig in, so the measurements are taken in slightly.
By and large I don't lose much more than a 1/16" so it doesn't notice

john

 

[DaveL]

John,

That is very nice, the pattern produce is great. 8)

 

[miles_hot]

why the steady? I thought such things were only used on very thin section items?

Miles

 

[CHJ]

Useful set of WIP John, I'm with Pete on the respect front, you have more patience than me and certainly a far more disciplined approach to your work and working environment than I am prepared to apply.

 

[John. B]

For detailed work insetting the mechanism the slightest wip messes it up.
The steady takes away any suggestion of wip. So no not just for slender work but unsupported work.



John

 

[Vulthoom]

Brilliant and way out of my league!

 

[stewart]

That's fantastic - thanks for all the pics too

 

[johnny.t.]

Very good WIP John and a very nice mill too . Love the way you make your own bits and bobs like jigs and especially that lathe steady, top stuff 8)

JT

 

[Paul.J]

Great WIPs John,and a lovely looking piece at the end

 

[John. B]

Thanks guys for your kind remarks,
JT, I often wonder if I should been a tool maker in my time instead of driving trains :roll:
I think the ideal job would be tool making/design with a past-time woodturning. Too late now I've retired, which is better than anything :lol:

John. B

 

[Martyn]

Nice work John. I think most turners end up making all sorts of jigs.
I have just completed a router box for the coronet and now I'm making an indexing wheel for it.
Is that an Avon you have? Had one of these back along, shame they no longer make them.
I was interested in your center steady. What did you use for the arms?
Any chance of a closeup pic?
Martyn

 

[John. B]

Hello Martyn,
Yep, can do :lol: They are just 10mm square steel rods from B&Q. The slots were drilled, mostly ground out with a small angle grinder then attacked with a file.
The wheels were a lucky find they came off a burned out B&D powerfile.
It's very difficult to find rubber tyred wheels that small.





For your interest I've included an indexer plate I made for the Avon.
held on the spindle by the chuck. ( more details just ask)






Regards
John

 

[Martyn]

Thanks John for the pics, I'd thought about using those rubber door stops for the wheels or the wheels I have here from an old microwave turntable but they are'nt rubber.
like the indexing wheel. I made one similar from alloy plate but when I mounted it behind the thread protector/morse ejector on the coronet I found that the plate was too thick and the morse taper on the drive center would not quite seat. So now i am making another one to go at the other end of the headstock attached via the cover plate which protects the rear bearing for the main shaft, needs to be smaller though.

Martyn

 

[Bodrighy]

Wheels from skates and skarte boards are often used. Something on my tuit shelf

Pete

 

[John. B]

This was a scrap piece of 1/16" steel plate (notice the 4 holes near the centre, already there).
Took ages to scribe and drill the holes the inner ones slightly offset to each other then sprayed with a car aerosol can then letraset around the outside.
Handy really, my multistar is indexed so has an arm. so I drilled that on the side then inserted another pointer so it can be use with both chucks.

John. B

 

[Martyn]

Maybe we should have a jigs and tips section in the woodturning section.
I'll be taking a look at the boys skateboard wheels too :lol:

 

[Jenx]

Very nice grinders John ... and a good thread of pictures / 'this is how' ...

A great read, and a great result ! 8) 8) 8) 8)

 

[John. B]

Appreciate your comments gentlemen.
The wheels! I emailed B & D customer services to ask about the availability of those little wheels as an accessory.
He replied no problem just give me the model number and I'll get them off to you.
He didn't quote prices, so I've no idea what they would cost.
One caveat though, they are noisy. The axle is just a rod of soft metal peened over so they are slightly loose.
It doesn't affect their performance but in an ideal world it would have an axle fixed to the centre of rubber covered needle race, (nice and quiet)
But they do work :wink:

John. B