Why cant i get neat joints

[Dye29]

Hi all im using my offcuts from bowl blanks , im cutting on table saw then putting through planer thicknesser to get somewhere near then run them across my jointer too glue but just never seem too get then tight theres always a gap what am i doing wrong both planers are new with sharp blades and the jointer ive set both beds level too each other then set blades so they just skim a ruler and move it no more than 3mm but just cant get a flat cut any ideas please im a newbie too

 

[D_W]

match plane a pair with a jointer plane and see how it works out.

And then go with what you learned doing that and do the same thing on a power jointer.

 

[Jameshow]

Are you saying your taking off 3mm each pass?

 

[Dye29]

Dunno really if im been honest ive just youtubed how to set up planer/jointer any tips would be great as that still could be wrong

 

[Ttrees]

Steve Maskery recently made a video on the subject.

 

[Linus]

Are you saying your taking off 3mm each pass?

No I think the OP is referring to blade setting moving a ruler 3mm by hand as per most setup vids

 

[Linus]

Hi all im using my offcuts from bowl blanks , im cutting on table saw then putting through planer thicknesser to get somewhere near then run them across my jointer too glue but just never seem too get then tight theres always a gap what am i doing wrong both planers are new with sharp blades and the jointer ive set both beds level too each other then set blades so they just skim a ruler and move it no more than 3mm but just cant get a flat cut any ideas please im a newbie too

I am not an expert but I think you misunderstand the role of jointer and thicknesser. Initially you want to flatten the offcuts with the jointer to get a flat reference face. If you are just gluing boards together then the reference faces should then fit to each other snugly. If you want to reduce the thickness of the boards then the reference flat side goes down on the bed whilst the thicknesser trims the other side to required dimension. Once done both sides should be flat enough to glue together.

 

[Jones]

Surely on a jointer or planer the indeed table should be below and parallel with the outfeed table not level with it. The step up between them is the depth of cut. I have my planer set to move a rule 8mm when the cutter is rotated 3 mm seems a bit low check the instructions on your machine not you tube.

 

[Orraloon]

I would say moving it 3mm is plenty. You only want the blades to very slightly be proud of the out feed table. The blades are only checked against the out feed table.
We need a wee bit more information and pics would help understanding whats going on. Are flat faces being glued to make larger turning blanks or is it edges to make wider boards? How long are the bits going through the thicknesser? Does the thicknesser leave any snipe? Are the faces or edges being checked against each other before gluing?
From whats been said so far it sounds like a setup issue on one or both machines.
Regards
John

 

[baldkev]

If my outfeed is a touch too low, i get snipe, 3 to 5mm travel on the reference piece is good for me....

 

[dzj]

Is the gap at the ends or in the middle of two mating surfaces?

 

[Sandyn]

Dunno really if im been honest ive just youtubed how to set up planer/jointer any tips would be great as that still could be wrong

Just a sanity check. Once you set up the planer(jointer) to give 3mm ruler movement you do then set the depth of cut by lowering the infeed table?
I would practice with longer bits of scrap wood and make sure material is being removed. Use a marker on the surface to be planed to see what's being removed.

 

[GregW]

Hi all im using my offcuts from bowl blanks , im cutting on table saw then putting through planer thicknesser to get somewhere near then run them across my jointer too glue but just never seem too get then tight theres always a gap what am i doing wrong both planers are new with sharp blades and the jointer ive set both beds level too each other then set blades so they just skim a ruler and move it no more than 3mm but just cant get a flat cut any ideas please im a newbie too

Photo please of the end of the joints…

PS. I can bet your planners have blades above “zero level” in relevance to table // roller…
0.2mm adds up… especially if you have them higher than 0.4mm.

 

[Woodbee2]

Photo please of the end of the joints…

PS. I can bet your planners have blades above “zero level” in relevance to table // roller…
0.2mm adds up… especially if you have them higher than 0.4mm.

Hi,
I think you’re getting confused between setting the blades into the block, and actually planing material off.
AND...the blades won’t be sharp straight from being ground, they need a light rub with a fine oilstone. Firstly the ground bevel....THEN the flat side..ABSOLUTELY FLAT! The same as a plane blade or chisel.
When they have been set into the block as you’ve described....THEN YOU SET THE DEPTH OF CUT by lowering the infeed table to the amount you need to take off.
Suggest 1/2 -1 mm would be about right.
The length of timber MUST BE AT LEAST 250mm or more, to have any chance of it being flat straight of the machine.
Offer the 2 pieces to be joined together and check both sides with a straight edge, to find any high or low spots, mark them with chalk or a pencil, and if not flat, a couple of fine shavings with a smoothing plane should correct any high spots.
Before glueing up score the surfaces at 45 degrees in both directions with a tenon saw, or hacksaw blade, to provide a key for the glue.
You end up with a criss-cross pattern. TIP 1...Then a finger tip sand with 80 grit paper to take off all the raised bits of dust and tiny chips. Tip 2...Blow or brush the DUST off before glueing.
Hope this helps. Seasons Greetings to all, and Happy New Year.
.

 

[isaac3d]

When you pass the board over the cutter (planer/jointer), where do you apply downward pressure? I have been told that as soon as there is enough of the board on the outfeed table to allow it, then the primary downward pressure should be applied there. If you apply too much pressure on the infeed side (or even over the cutter) then you risk flattening out any bend or cupping. In which case the cutter will take shavings off the whole surface rather than correcting the warping and the warping will reappear as soon as the pressure is released. Obviously, that all depends on the thickness of the board and your physical strength
That may be known to you already but if not, then it is worth thinking about.