Why are some router tables made up of cast iron but not others?

[gyuunyuu]

So in my research on router tables, I found that the cheaper ones contain almost all MDF and plastic and as we go up in the price range, we get more and more alumium. Eventually, we reach the cast iron router tables. From what I have read, these tables reduce the vibration since they are heavier. The cast iron tables weight in range of 50kg to 70kg and maybe more for larger ones. The same design of router table not using cast iron actually weighs less than half of the one that uses cast iron.

Now my first question is about the rationale for reducing vibrations. Wood work does not need to be precise down to micro-meter accuracy. Even if there is some vibration because of the spinning blade and its contact with the piece being cut, why does it matter?

The second question is, just how much does the use of cast iron reduce the vibrations in the router table? Lead and Uranium are more dense than Iron. Why not use them?

 

[ChaiLatte]

Density is not the same as stiffness. Cost is not the same as weight.

 

[Yojevol]

CI on modern hobbyist machinery is just a sales gimmick. My p/t made by Metabo has aluminium tables but the same machine from RP features cast iron. The planing results from each will be indistinguishable.
Brian

 

[Bingy man]

I’d not like to use any tool made of lead let alone uranium. Biggest difference is usually cost . I imagine it’s a lot easier and cheaper to press out a aluminium table than accurately mill out a big heavy chunk of c I ..

 

[Distinterior]

I’d not like to use any tool made of lead let alone uranium.....

 

[Spectric]

In metalworking machine shops then cast iron beds are more durable, ground to tight tolerances and are less prone to corrosion due to the use of cutting fluids but in the home woodworking workshop it is not as essential but more often a nice to have. This high density laminated stuff is more than adequate for router tables providing it has supports beneath, bandsaws have large tables that pivot where extra support may not be as feasable so cast iron is the obvious choice and how many of us have MDF worktops often with 20mm holes, imagine that in cast iron.

 

[Sideways]

Cast iron is more resistant to wear than laminates or aluminium, but it doesn't matter because a non industrial user won't wear out laminate/ ally even in decades of use.
Heavy can be nice but then it might make the tool a pain to move around - not so good.
If you suffer condensation in your workshop, cast iron needs a lot more maintenance and care to stop it rusting.
Thick composite panels can be pretty heavy too and good at damping vibration, but vibration on router tables isn't really an issue anyway. Routers are supposed to be precision balanced and don't vibrate much. If they do, you bought a cheap nasty tool so get rid of it, don't try and fix it by putting it in a heavy table.
What matters is flat and stiff. That's the best reason for choosing cast iron, but again cast alloy also does that just fine, so does high pressure, or better "solid grade" laminate.
I'd avoid budget tables made of MDF with formica type skins. MDF is much more likely to sag over time than a table top made with a high resin content all the way through. SGL is far heavier, stiffer and waterproof all the way through.

 

[CaptainBarnacles]

I made my own router table about 12 years ago and used MDF for the top. I used 2 18mm sheets glued together and braced it underneath with a couple of 4x2s. I had intended to apply some sort of laminate to the top but never got around to it. The MDF is still fine and the table is plenty flat enough. The MDF does seem to absorb vibration well.

I made an insert plate from acrylic, bought a cheap speed control from Ali Express, knocked up a sturdy base from 2x4s, a hefty MDF fence and inserted some Kreg track. I edged the MDF top with hardwood to keep the moisture out and protect the edges. I reckon it cost me no more than £100 to make and with my mighty Makita 3612 in there it has performed brilliantly. I really must get some laminate on the top and fence though!

 

[Spectric]

SGL is far heavier, stiffer and waterproof all the way through.

You forgot to mention the cost, sit down before looking.

More info here: https://www.panelsystems.co.uk/advi...s-of-solid-grade-laminate-for-toilet-cubicles

and I think I have mentioned it before but look for comercial vehicle breakers as a lot of custom built type vans use good quality laminate panels for the body and in a scrap yard will probably have no value so cheap.

 

[Distinterior]

You can get 12mm worktop/ kitchen splashbacks in SGL nowadays......See if a local kitchen company or fitter has an offcut they would be willing to part with.
If it's only for a router table top, you wont need a huge piece...700mm x 500mm is an average size top for a router table......

Bear in mind though , it is really tough to work with and cut/rout...!! Tungsten Carbide blades & cutters blunt really quickly when machining it!
People that work with this type of material on a regular basis use PCD (Poly Crystalline Diamond) cutting tools.......and they cost an arm & a leg!

 

[trvlr]

pleeze Sir: wot duz SGL stand for? I missed that class...

 

[Yojevol]

pleeze Sir: wot duz SGL stand for? I missed that class...

Solid Grade Laminate, but beware, that nice Mr Google advises it also means Same Gender Loving.
In this context I assume it's the former.
Brian

 

[Distinterior]

Solid Grade Laminate is certainly the SGL I was referring to....!

 

[Against_The_Grain]

When table routers were first popularised back in the ‘80’s and ‘90s by woodworking magazines, the whole attraction of them was that they were a cheaper alternative to a spindle moulder that could be constructed in a home workshop from some sheet material and utilise an inexpensive router. Now it’s got to the point where factory produced table routers have become more expensive than some spindle moulders and are largely a much less effective machine for most operations.

Cast iron and even cast aluminium tables totally defeats the point.

 

[Jameshow]

When table routers were first popularised back in the ‘80’s and ‘90s by woodworking magazines, the whole attraction of them was that they were a cheaper alternative to a spindle moulder that could be constructed in a home workshop from some sheet material and utilise an inexpensive router. Now it’s got to the point where factory produced table routers have become more expensive than some spindle moulders and are largely a much less effective machine for most operations.

Cast iron and even cast aluminium tables totally defeats the point.

But like wacking your circular saw under the kitchen table and calling it a table saw, well it is but nothing compared to a proper jobby!

 

[Delaney]

I made my own router table about 12 years ago and used MDF for the top. I used 2 18mm sheets glued together and braced it underneath with a couple of 4x2s. I had intended to apply some sort of laminate to the top but never got around to it. The MDF is still fine and the table is plenty flat enough. The MDF does seem to absorb vibration well.

I made an insert plate from acrylic, bought a cheap speed control from Ali Express, knocked up a sturdy base from 2x4s, a hefty MDF fence and inserted some Kreg track. I edged the MDF top with hardwood to keep the moisture out and protect the edges. I reckon it cost me no more than £100 to make and with my mighty Makita 3612 in there it has performed brilliantly. I really must get some laminate on the top and fence though!

It cost you more than £100
Sounds like it took you about 2-3 days to build .
If you value your time at say £150-200 a day, that’s a £500 table on average.
So real costs is about £600.

I once watched a youtube video where this american was bragging about how you can make a bench for $150
He had though about $6000 worth of tooling to do it.

People who place value on how cheaply they made something, often place no value on their time, the tooling they bought to achieve it and other such important cost factors.

You coukd have bought this and spent the 2-3 days making money instead.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17632533...ayj2uzvqnc&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Jester129]

@Delaney - but that ebay offering won't remain at £102 with 3 days left to run, more like £300 - £400 when the auction closes.

 

[JimTaylor]

Vibration can cause chatter, so instead of your nice smooth surface you get some undulations.

 

[CaptainBarnacles]

It cost you more than £100
Sounds like it took you about 2-3 days to build .
If you value your time at say £150-200 a day, that’s a £500 table on average.
So real costs is about £600.

I once watched a youtube video where this american was bragging about how you can make a bench for $150
He had though about $6000 worth of tooling to do it.

People who place value on how cheaply they made something, often place no value on their time, the tooling they bought to achieve it and other such important cost factors.

You coukd have bought this and spent the 2-3 days making money instead.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17632533...ayj2uzvqnc&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

What a ridiculous argument! I get it if you are working as a chippy etc but most of the folks on here are hobbyists and do this stuff in their spare time.

The cost of the tools required to build this (or any project) is virtually irrelevant. I didn’t buy my circular saw to make this project and then throw it away, it will be used for many projects and given that I’ve had my saw for over 20 years I’d say the cost per project is very low. Yes, I used my Domino but I didn’t buy it especially for this and could have easily built it without.

It took me a few hours to build it but that was time I’d have otherwise been reading or watching TV so I don’t place a value on it.

In a commercial environment time is money but in our home workshops time isn’t valued in the same way. If it was none of us would ever make anything as it’s almost always cheaper to buy it from some god-awful tat shop.

 

[Delaney]

@Delaney - but that ebay offering won't remain at £102 with 3 days left to run, more like £300 - £400 when the auction closes.that w

That was taken into consideration in my post. I totalled 2-3 days work at 150 a day, plus materials. That comes to roughly £550
I claimed he could buy that table and still be quids in.
Your appraisal of the selling price confirms my comment.
That’s if you agree with £150 a fay over 3 days in the first place.