Which solvent for dried Evo Stick?

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Glynne

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Something of a strange situation but I've just been at my Mum's (90 years old) and some of her kitchen tiles were bowing away from the wall.
The scenario is that there are original 6" x 3" white ceramic tiles onto which someone has glued Formica using Evo Stick and then someone else has glued more modern kitchen tiles with nortmal tiles adhesive. Having had a couple of burst pipes due to the cold, my Mum has reluctantly installed a heater in the kitchen (only been in the house 55 years) and I think this has caused a moisture differential leading to the formica bowing.
I've managed to take off the modern tiles intact and scrapped the Formica but there is now a brown residue of the Evo Stick left on the white tiles. I have tried scraping this off but it is stuck like the proverbial poo to a blanket so can anyone suggest a solvent that might shift this please?
The Evo Stick must have been on for ~ 50 years as I vaguely remember the kitchen being decorated as a kid so the glue is well and truly dry.
Thanks,
Glynne
 
HG flooring adhesive remover might do it.
I've used it and had decent results, but we were applying more adhesive later when laying new vinyl tiles.
Mechanical means of removal might be the best bet.
 
The last time I came across this dried Evo Stik gunge, I found that it was easier to scrape dry, as I was not able to find any thing to soften it.
I didn't try it but Maybe nail varnish remover would break it down.(we all have some in our tool box).
Regards Rodders
 
blackrodd":3qex8iku said:
I was not able to find any thing to soften it.
I didn't try it but Maybe nail varnish remover would break it down.(we all have some in our tool box). Regards Rodders
Cellulose thinners works pretty well I've found even on old dried contact cement. It takes some time (patience required) and ideally on old dry stuff you leave something like a cloth soaked in the thinners over the offending gobbet for a while to do its thing. Cellulose thinners tends to evaporate quite fast hence the need for the soaked rags, so it has its drawbacks, and really good ventilation is needed, and ideally a spray mask.

I had a look at the data sheets for the Evo-stik product and there appear to be some constituents common to both, so perhaps the actions of the different products are similar. The Evo-stik adhesive softener isn't overly expensive so it would be worth a try at least, particularly if Glynne, the OP, doesn't have a ready source of cellulose thinner.

Having said all that sometimes, as you say rodders, scraping off old dried glue can be the best approach for removing the worst of the adhesive, with a follow up of one of the solvents mentioned above for final clean up. Slainte.
 
Glynne,

I've also had success removing old, dried Evostik with cellulose thinners and acetone (but not Evostik as old as in your Mum's house - never needed to do that)! And a fairly blunt paint scraper or putty knife helps a great deal too.

And another that works is petrol out of the car - really (but obviously, DO turn off gas pilot lights, etc - same if using the thinners or acetone above too of course).

In all cases though (not too many of them fortunately!) I've found helping whatever solvent along with mechanical abrasion (paint scraper, etc) is a must to start to break the bond between the glue and the back face of the Formica, but from the sound of things that's not going to be so easy in your particular case. Good luck.

FWIW
AES
 
assuming you intend to glue something else there try a sanding disk on an angle grinder with a rubber backing pad,
 
lurker":3hoz9rii said:
You realise artex often contains asbestos??
Do not scrape this stuff dry and raise a dust

Yes I do. Artex was manufactured with asbestos pre 1984. This artex was put up in 1996.
Also used a wallpaper steamer to break the adhesive bond with the plaster - there was no dust but steam everywhere.

Brian
 
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