Which LN bevel edge chisels?

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Routermonster

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Hi
Over the years, I've acquired a collection of bevel edge chisels (mainly Marples, plus some Stanleys). Recently, I've started buying Ashley Iles, which are good value, and they sharpen and hold an edge very well.

But I'm tempted to try one or two LNs ....

My question is, is it worth buying the long-handled ones sold as paring chisels by Axminster? Or should I play safe and go for the regular ones?

Thanks in advance

Les
 
Hi Les,
That would depend on how you want to use them IMHO.
The standard handles are really quite small by chisel handle standards, but are very hard, and will take hitting if you want to.
I have big hands and find them a little small for paring, whereas I have a set of long handled Japanese parers that are much easier to use for this purpose.
The steel is excellent of course, so you won't be disappointed there.
Good luck
MC
 
As said, depends what you plan to use them for, but I would probably go for the standard handles in the first place anyway and then it's easy enough to make up some longer ones later yourself if needed.

Easiest by lathe of course if you have one, but quite possible too by bandsawing or planing off the corners on some square section stock and then finishing off with rasps/files/sandpaper, part of the fun !

Cheers, Paul. :D
 
Routermonster":1aekzckn said:
My question is, is it worth buying the long-handled ones sold as paring chisels by Axminster? Or should I play safe and go for the regular ones?

Since the handles are simply fitted in sockets (making those sockets is a major reason for the cost BTW), you can buy the regular ones, and "make and try" a long handle yourself.

IIRC the (puchaseable) long handles came about precisely becuase David Charlesworth (of this parish) was used to long handles on some Japanese chisels he had, and tried fitting long handles to some prototype LN chisels. It worked well enough than LN adopted it as a line item.

It's just a wooden handle.

BugBear
 
Thanks BB ~;-)# All true.

The best thing about the standard handles, which are made from Hop Hornbeam, known locally as Ironwood, is that they can be struck with a metal hammer.

I use a Japanes barel shaped hammer for the wondcerful feedback and precision of blow, that one gets.

I now find Beech mallets and nylon hammers very soggy in comparison, as well as being much more clumsy to handle.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 
David C":3u9b91zy said:
The best thing about the standard handles, which are made from Hop Hornbeam, known locally as Ironwood, is that they can be struck with a metal hammer.

Hi David,
I know this is drifting somewhat off-topic, but by "locally," do you mean locally in Maine (_New_ England) or locally in your "neck of the woods"? Because it is indeed called "ironwood" here in Vermont (as well as Maine). Interestingly, hornbeam is also called "ironwood" here, and the two are indeed very similar. I have a friend who has actually built some furniture out of hophornbeam (which usually gets burned in woodstoves around here), and he was able to really utilize the interesting figure that sometimes occurs in the heartwood. It reminds me of cream that is swirling in coffee. The stuff takes an amazing polish!
I love the fact that LN is using it for their chisels -- the two I own so far, however, are completely clear of heartwood. Perhaps the next one will have it. I've found that it can really take a beating, too.
-Andy
 
Les,
I recently argued on this forum that the long hornbeam handled version of the chisel is so versatile it should perhaps be regarded as an entirely new type of chisel. There is no practical reason why it cannot do all the jobs the short handled version can but with the potential for increased control. This is why I now find I use the long handled most in my workshop, the shorter ones only being more convenient when an amount of chopping is needed.
It is a very subjective thing and you really need to use both to find out what suits you best.
Right now on the Axminster website the long handled versions are under £30 and the short handled closer to £40.
See what I mean by undervalued?
Jon.
 
Karl,
Conventional wisdom is that a ‘paring’ chisel is never struck (which is one reason I am not sure the long L-N should be called ‘paring’ chisels).
The long handled L-N use the same wood for the handles as the short so they can be stuck. I use a mallet – I agree with David the Japanese style hammer is more precise – I just can’t bring myself to hit a wooden handle with a hammer though the hornbeam is clearly tough enough to withstand this.
The L-N website confirms this.
Jon.
 
Hi Jon

Thanks for that. The "Paring" name was confusing me a little. I saw that the handles were the same timber.

Does anybody else out there hit those beautiful Paring chisels with a mallet - wooden or metal?

Cheers

Karl
 
Andy,

Yes I did mean local to Maine etc. sorry to be vague!

Karl,

I would not choose to hit long (paring) handles but have no empirical evidence to support this feeling.

David
 
jonbikebod":1of0dy0v said:
Right now on the Axminster website the long handled versions are under £30 and the short handled closer to £40.
I didn't believe you so I checked :shock: Why on earth is that? Isn't the metal part identical, so basically you are getting a longer hornbeam handle for £8 less? :-k

Cheers,
Neil
 
I have no idea Neil.
I just got a couple more from Sittingbourne and the price label was the same price as the short handles. When the code was typed in the computer it put up the lower price.
The metal bit is identical; you just get more hornbeam and pay less… Anyone buying a new set would be significantly better-off buying the long ones and then either making or buying a couple of short handles (L-N sell them separately).
They are exceedingly easy to change.
Jon.
 
Thanks, Jon. I might have to get some ASAP in case it is an error and they suddenly realise. Its a shame that they are out of stock of the bigger sizes at the moment :(

Cheers,
Neil
 
Mr C wrote:
I now find Beech mallets and nylon hammers very soggy in comparison, as well as being much more clumsy to handle.

I have a set of the LN short handled chisels and very good they are too. It doesn't seem somehow right to me to belt them with a steel hammer even if the timber is as tough as the proverbial. I use a moderately sized lignum carvers mallet (sits in the bench well) for all my malleting ops and it gives very good 'feedback' In addition and more importantly I think, by holding the mallet very close to the head I don't have to look at it when striking the chisel as the contact area is much larger...I can look directly at what the blade is doing - Rob
 
I can see that Lignum, being very dense, would have good feedback.

Thomas L-N tested the first handles with a 16 oz framing hammer!

David
 
Hi everyone

Thanks for all your replies - very helpful as always and food for thought.

Incidentally, I've checked the current Axminster catalogue, which is valid until 31 August (as well as the previous one - sad aren't I?), and I'm convinced that their prices for the long handled LN chisels are correct.

Trouble is, they're currently out of stock of most of their LN BE chisels. So I'll just have to be patient ....

Les
 
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