Which flush cut saw?

[Rorton]

ive been using an old Japanese saw…

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VYHVWXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it cuts ok, but I have neglected it, been cutting splines and dowels while glue still a bit wet, so it’s got a bit gunked up and going rusty

im finding I’m cutting a lot of splines on boxes flush, so wondered if there was a recommended saw to use for these types of flush cuts

The one I have seems to flex quite a bit but don’t know a lot about these types of saws.

 

[Argus]

Personally I always cut splines and pegs above the surface with an ordinary saw then pare it flat with a chisel, if necessary...... a much better finish than saw cuts.

The idea of naked saw teeth running on what may be, or may become, a finished surface is asking for scratches.

No doubt there will be other methods along shortly!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I always quite liked the idea of making one out of a small trowel.

 

[Rorton]

The problem I have is I’m sort of trying to hide a few sins while I’m doing it

my table saw blade isn’t flat toothed, so my splines grooves have a little v in them, I lightly hammer the spline material in to bed it in best I can, but at the the moment I’m cutting them while stuck but glue still wet, I do this with blue tape on all the corners to aid clean up of the glue

once cut, I can then sand with the Orbital sander and the dust and excess wood catches in the little v that’s left in the spline groove with the glue in and it all works out ok

 

[TomW]

I think I just have one of these STANLEY | Products | HAND TOOLS | Hand saws | Hand saws | Speciality saws | STANLEY® FATMAX® Mini Flush Cut Pull Saw but I stick some thick tape on the side that's against the wood face to prevent any surface marring and leave a small amount proud and then finish with a chisel.
It's probably less a case of the right saw and more the right, or should I saw finding the one technique that works for you and provides a good finish. A saw alone won't do I don't think.

 

[TRITON]

I've that stanley one and have to say I dont like it at all. Maybe its my poor technique, but its left too many surfaces scratched(and worse) and although ion use, I dont think i'd buy another.

Im not sure if its the flexible blade that when bent, seems to force down the leading edge which promotes it to wanting to dig in.
Held completely flat it seems ok, but raising the handle isnt ideal, and you need to raise the handle

 

[Orraloon]

I was just using my tenon saw with a bit of plastic to protect the wood then use a block plane to flush down to surface. I have not long since got a small irwin pull saw and guess what. I still have to use the plastic strip to protect the surface.
Regards
John

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I have a few flush cut saws, a Japanese one which is very good, an Irwin one with different sized teeth on each side, is knackered now but had served me well for at least ten years, an expensive veritas one which is crap and has lived in a drawer after a couple of uses. The best one by far is one bought from Lidle for a few quid, it looks cheap and plasticky but is still great after at least ten years of use.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I always quite liked the idea of making one out of a small trowel.

I think you have been beaten to it Phil!!

 

[ecokestove]

AFIK the Japanese flush cut saws have the teeth set only on one side so that they shouldn't mark the finished surface.I see Workshop Heaven stock one that has no set at all.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

AFIK the Japanese flush cut saws have the teeth set only on one side so that they shouldn't mark the finished surface.

No they don’t, they have no set so it doesn’t matter which side you use. They are also more flexible than other Japanese saws.
Here are the 2 I bought in Japan and they are probably the most common one available. As you can see they are designed to be bendy

Edit
They are £14 on Amazon

 

[pgrbff]

Personally I always cut splines and pegs above the surface with an ordinary saw then pare it flat with a chisel, if necessary...... a much better finish than saw cuts.

The idea of naked saw teeth running on what may be, or may become, a finished surface is asking for scratches.

No doubt there will be other methods along shortly!

The saws in question have no set.

 

[pgrbff]

The Veritas flush cut saw works well but I think it has set on one side.

 

[JobandKnock]

I use an Irwin flush cut saw when I need one (mainly plugs in oak skirtings, architraves, stair treads, panelling and the like). Cheap wnough to just replace if I trash it. Ipretty much always use it with an old playing card between the face of the blade and the material, then finish with a very sharp chisel

 

[Ollie78]

Got a stanley one years ago at machine mart of all places. Works well was about a tenner.

 

[Doug B]

Another vote in favour of the Veritas I’ve had the single sided toothed blade model for years it now resides in my site bag for cutting the tops of wooden plugs used to hide fixings.
I bought the double sided toothed blade saw for in the workshop I was so impressed
https://www.classichandtools.com/acatalog/Veritas-Flush-Cutting-Saws-VK3.html

 

[Stuart Moffat]

i have a saw that has only ever been used for cutting the slots for frets on a guitar fingerboard. The body of the blade is exactly the same thickness as the required slot, and before first use many years ago, I hammered of all the set on both sides. Now and again it is invaluable for other uses. if you have a saw you are willing to sacrifice.....

 

[xy mosian]

If you cut your slots for splines with a Japanese saw, aren't you going to replace the 'v' at the bottom of the cut with a 'w'?
Perhaps a different result with a tradional rip saw tooth that has no set. A little like a very narrow float.
geoff

Edit:-
Ok! after a pot of tea, I have woken up. You already have the 'w' formation. At the bottom of the cut.
Still I think the float is likely to give you the best results, that or suitable chisel.
geoff

 

[Rorton]

thanks all for the replies, I think the general consensus saw wise is to get something similar to what I have now - short(ish) and with no set and perhaps look after it a bit better this time