Which Belt Sander for Floor Refinishing

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Steve Blackdog

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We have sanded and sealed floorboards with loose rugs on all of our downstairs. When we first had it done, we didn't have the dog and the guy used a varnish finish. It has lasted well, but the dog has done too many handbrake turns in the hall and it needs to be refinished. This time I will go for hard wax-oil, which is easier to maintain and 'top up'.

I've just had a 4 figure quote to do this work. So I am thinking, why don't I do it myself?!. It does not need a massive amount material removed - just the varnish really. The floor is pine. My thought was that it would justify buying a decent 100mm/4" best sander to give myself the best chance of doing what will be a decent sized job with it.

I have made the mistake of buying second hand and buying entry models which I have quickly become unhappy with. So I want something that will last me many years after I have finished this job. It will have to be 240v. I also want decent dust extraction or some way of linking it up to my DX4000 extractor.

Please can I have your recommendations.

Thanks

Steve
 
My recommendation is to hire a floor sander, it's much quicker, you get a better finish and you don't get an aching back. I did it once when the nearest hire shop was a long long way away....never again. Put a monetary value to the time you saved and justify your belt sander with that.
 
Out of interest, why not rent out a floor sanding machine?


Ah, Carl and Muswell beat me too it. I use one now and then for refinishing container floors, not a job I would to do crawling about with a belt sander.
 
How good a finish do you want? ..... Hell would freeze over before I used one of those on a decent floor in my house (and yes, I have done it before on good hardwood floors). If you're on an old, basically sound pine floor that you don't mind digs and marks in fine. Whichever route you take, get rid of the varnish first with stripper - it'll save a lot of work and abrasives.
 
@phil.p

If I were to use nitro-mors or a similar stripper, how would I get it off the floor. I have stripped a lot of window frames etc and had to wash them down, but they have been easy because gravity helps dry them out. Not sure how that will work on the floor.

Steve
 
It's wise to try a small area first, but if you are successful you might get away with a finer grade of abrasive. Just mop it - try not to use too much water, obviously, or else use a white spirit washable one. It's tedious and dirty, but worthwhile as some varnishes are hellish hard and you'll end up changing your abrasive every couple of minutes. It's a horrible job, whichever way you choose to do it.
 
phil.p":3j4atz72 said:
How good a finish do you want? ..... Hell would freeze over before I used one of those on a decent floor in my house (and yes, I have done it before on good hardwood floors). If you're on an old, basically sound pine floor that you don't mind digs and marks in fine. Whichever route you take, get rid of the varnish first with stripper - it'll save a lot of work and abrasives.

:?: :?: Why ???

I've done it several times over the years and as long as you have a good extractor, Face mask etc and seal the room off its quite simple .

To the OP

If you do hire one get an small edge sander as well,
Like all things in life there is a knack to them but what ever you do while the motor is running you must keep the Sander moving otherwise you will gouge the floor.
And go over the floor looking for nails that are standing level or proud on the timber and punch them down otherwise you will rip the sanding belt..

Roger
 
The OP only really needs to remove the varnish and very little more - it's worth a gentler approach first, I'd have thought. I accept that my experience is coloured by sanding dance floors in rooms that couldn't be sealed off, and also floors that were at the limit of their being sanded and had to treated a little more gently.
+1 for looking for nails, and whatever sort of sander you use, it's worth getting a belt cleaner - it'll save you £s worth of abrasives.
 
@Roger

This is a resealing exercise, so "all" (ha ha) I need to do is get the existing finish off. I can live with the few deeper scratches as they add to the character.

I had thought of simply giving it a good wash and go over with traffic wax. Not a proper job though and slippery as hell.

As it has already been sanded properly once, I have no worries on nails etc - that has already been taken care of.
 
LOL in that case then I'd probably go with some kind of stripper as well but i wouldnt have a clue about which one to get these days

Roger
 
RogerBoyle":j18ahg7p said:
To the OP

If you do hire one get an small edge sander as well,
Like all things in life there is a knack to them but what ever you do while the motor is running you must keep the Sander moving otherwise you will gouge the floor.
And go over the floor looking for nails that are standing level or proud on the timber and punch them down otherwise you will rip the sanding belt..

Roger

I was sanding a floor when the handle came off. The switch was on the bit which was now a few feet in front of me and the best solution was to reach back to the wall socket. It was only a second or so but I ended up with a semi-circular depression in the floor. Luckily it was under the bed.
 
Steve, Find a place near you that rents out the 'Lagler Trio 3 Disc Floor Sander' It sands quickly quietly and does not dig itself into your floor. There is no other machine for the job
 

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mrpercysnodgrass":3hq50d9x said:
Steve, Find a place near you that rents out the 'Lagler Trio 3 Disc Floor Sander' It sands quickly quietly and does not dig itself into your floor. There is no other machine for the job

Looks a great bit of kit - any idea where you can hire them in the midlands?

Cheers
Steve
 
I've found one in Warwick, so I will be speaking to the hire people tomorrow.

Many thanks for the help folks.

Steve
 
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