Where to buy the best coping saw?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Pete Maddex":1fhuw2ck said:
Hi, Gazpal

I always struggled with Eclipse saws in thicker wood, the blades curving like a washing line and having to twist the saw more than needed to change direction. My bowsaw coping saw works much better than an Eclipse.

That bit of wood was cut at speed not paying attention to accuracy and cleanness.


Pete

Hi Pete,

One could tell the timber was cut without particular attention to accuracy or tidyness, although it's still possible to cut at speed and with attention to detail.

With heavier/thicker materials I tend to up the ante - tool-wise - and move onto my bow/turning saws using blades matching the degree of finesse or agression required in the cut. With coping saws I tend to set the blade to match variations in cutting direction and let the blade do the work.
 
Well my new Knew concept saw arrived today and very nice it is to, thank you guys!! One thing, I was going to order some blades from the site Derek linked, but they are all 5 inch blades, rather than 5 and one eighth as specified by Knew concept, who state clearly that shorter blades will not work, so I am a bit unsure. Can someone confirm the best blades for the saw?

Cheers, Mark
 
woodbloke":2vmt6724 said:
I've got one of the WH fret saws and have been disappointed by it :( No matter how hard you try to wind on some pressure to tension the blade, it always seems to be flabby, - Rob

Hi Rob,

I think you may be making the same mistake as I did when I first tried them - i.e. trying to use the tension adjuster to apply the tension rather than adjust it.

*Install the blade and check that the tension adjuster isn't at one extreme or the other.
*Loosen the top screw.
*Hold the back upright of the frame like a pistol and press your thumb on the end of the frame to apply the tension.
*Tighten the top screw.
*Adjust the tension with the adjuster to a satisfyingly taut 'ping'.

Here's a couple of videos:

Installing the blade
Tensioning the blade

12.5, 15 and 20tpi skip tooth blades will be available within the next week or two and I'm hoping we will have the Knew Concept ones in shortly too.
 
Thanks for that Matt, I'll give it a go. Look forward to seeing the 'Knew Concept' saws as well - Rob
 
5" Woodworker Aluminum with Cam-lever & Swivel Blade Clamps ($95.00)
5" Titanium with Cam-lever & Swivel Blade Clamps ($195.00)

Hi Derek,

Would you say there was a great deal of difference, ie. $100 worth, between the aluminium and the titanium in terms of strength and reliability long term (weight difference between the metals is not an issue for me)?

I'm one of those blokes who only likes to buy a tool for work once, and the number of fret saws I've gone through in the last few years is a source of frustration and would probably pay for either one of the above!

Cheers

El.
 
I have not used the aluminium version, only the titanium ones. All three I have were stages in developing the final design. Happily, I did not pay for them. However, if I were buying one, I would consider the aluminium one the better value. From what I understand, the aluminium may not have the extra rigidity of the titanium, but it is very rigid - far more so than anything else on the market. It is also slightly lighter than the titanium version. This is unlikely to be a case where you get second best and feel that it is letting you down.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
From another forum, a similar thread resulted in a post of a previous "engineered" coping saw:

Over on Woodnet, click here

IIRC Axminster also used to sell this (anyone know for sure?).

IMHO it's related to the Knew Concept in not having a simple bent bar for a body (e.g. Eclipse), but in having a structure from the world of Civil engineering;

The Knew concepts has a lattice (like a tower crane), the ABEL has an I beam (*). Both designs are intended to get more strength and rigidity for a given use of material.

In the present age, I don't know what would be more cost effective - laser/water/plasma cutting sheet material or die casting.

Edit; googling also gave same saw being sold by Christopher Schwarz

Edit; a rather involved google led to this:

STILL on sale in France at 40 Euros

BugBear

(*) actually it's it's an 'inverted T' beam, but I think I just made that up!
 
But is it better than this one?

avatar_bow.jpg
 
Scouse":36b5u93i said:
Would you say there was a great deal of difference, ie. $100 worth, between the aluminium and the titanium in terms of strength and reliability long term (weight difference between the metals is not an issue for me)?

I'm one of those blokes who only likes to buy a tool for work once, and the number of fret saws I've gone through in the last few years is a source of frustration and would probably pay for either one of the above!

Frankly, in the real world, I find it hard to see the extra value in the titaium version over the aluminium item that I have. I also quite like the red anodised finish which has the added advantage that it does not disappear in the mess of shavings and tools that all too often defines my bench.

Jim
 
Very impressed with mine, although I yet to use it on a proper joint, the test cuts I made were very impressive. I have ordered some of the Pegas blades from bens scroll saw as well. Thanks for the info everyone!
 
An alloy "I" beam saw was listed by Axminster in their '97 and '99 catalogues;

inca_saw.jpg


This doesn't appear to be the same as the Abel 160 - in particular the T beam section appears to be the other way up. It (was) certainly Cheap enough.

BugBear
 
Woodwould":1gm07d9p said:
I worked on the design and did the testing, so I can assure you that they are quite different.

According to the Knew web site, what differentiates the woodworker's saw is the un-painted handle!

Hi WW

I will let Lee know that's how it comes across.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Yes it is not a coping saw, but the piercing or jewellers saw which Workshop Heaven sell is the only one I am aware of which will take a decent tension.

The tension adjustment screw is missing from all others including the Dictum version.

If this screw is compltely slacked off, while the blade is fitted and tensioned, and then tightened fully, an excellent high tension can be achieved. A considerably higher note than the one on the video.

I use Eclipse 18 TPI fretsaw blades for removing waste in 10 mm thick stuff.

I find it incomprehensible that so many tool sellers choose the simpler and hopelessly unsatisfactory model.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Damn the poster of the Knew concepts titanium saw, I want one...........but am currently resisting temptation.
 
Hi David

Lee (Knew Concepts) has now recommended Pegas SK7 blades. From http://www.Bens Scroll Saw.com

I was using the Eclipse 18 tpi, and in fact gave them to Lee to trial. He is a jeweller not a woodworker, but was quite impressed and subsequently began supplying the fretsaw with the Eclipse. When he switched to the Pegas he sent me a couple. They are streets ahead. Really worth getting.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
David C":1c9xdk46 said:
Damn the poster of the Knew concepts titanium saw, I want one...........but am currently resisting temptation.

Sorry about that David, but you know you really have to have one and you would "save" quite a bit if you went fo the aluminium version. I blame it all on David Barron for it was he who showed me his Knew piercing saw.

Jim
 

Latest posts

Back
Top