What woods are best for a beginner/newbie?

[Droogs]

have you tried these guys
http://www.communitywoodrecycling.org.uk/

or even trying this lot
http://jmouldreading.co.uk/news/j-mould ... n-website/

 

[Tasky]

have you tried these guys
http://www.communitywoodrecycling.org.uk/

Yep, that's the Oxford Wood Recycling place, or rather the organisation they're part of. I know some amazing deals can be had... particularly if you're Paul Sellers and making a video praising them highly... but having been up there several times and coming away with the grand total of Naff-All, it's one heck of a sad way to waste fuel.

or even trying this lot
http://jmouldreading.co.uk/news/j-mould ... n-website/

Ooh, now that I hadn't seen.... I'm aware of their lorries, running around town, but I understood they only traded with other industry companies... I bet they're the reason I never find any fire doors in skips round here!!

If they sell to the public, that could be quite a nice source of wood.
Many thanks for that, Droogs!

 

[Suffolkboy]

Custard uses a lot more wood than me, and I have never used cherry. However, I would certainly give an honourable mention to Walnut (American Black Walnut, I think it's normally termed), which is possibly the most delightfully easy of all the hardwoods to work with. It can be beautiful, especially if used as a contrast timber.

However, as one who has stuck to the basic advice of using just 3 or 4 main timbers, I would say, oak, oak, oak, ash, oak, chestnut, oak and sycamore, in addition to tons of pine (redwood), and of course, oak. All of my stored timber falls into those categories, bar some oddments of walnut, beech, and some teak that someone gave me.

You forgot to mention Oak... Oh wait.

 

[Sam_Jack]

IMO.

Hesitantly, carefully and, with some reserve, I offer some ‘considered’ advice to beginners – those who are feeling their way towards ‘acceptable’ carpentry or joinery. Particularly to those who cannot; or will not waste a shed load of money buying quality wood to practice on.

Firstly, there is a need to be able to cut straight; on, or to the selected side of a knife line; which, to some may seem easy. It ain’t. The paring and flattening of a housing (Dado if you prefer) is not a straightforward matter either; no matter what the experts tell you – it ain’t. Cutting, with a bevel edge chisel through 60 or 80mm of a mortice is not a task the average apprentice would be tasked with – it looks straight forward – but it ain’t.

So, (tin hat at the ready) may I humbly suggest some diligent ‘skip - diving’ prior to parting with hard earned dollars. Of all the timbers, construction grade Pine is, IMO, the hardest to work with for joinery. However, should you master this beast, the rest is almost a walk in the park. Find a ‘heavy’ 190 x 45 off cut – long as you can. It comes from the provider as ‘square’ and so it is (twists and bends not mentioned, nor required). Then, using your basic tools, take it down to ‘four square’; then leave it for a day – then return it to four square. Drive you nuts; but, it costs nothing. When you have fought off the resin pockets (weight) and the instability and the rising and cross grain; you may; maybe, have a piece of wood worth making something of – perhaps.

But; you will learn valuable lessons. Things like how to arrange the work to avoid, at all costs, knots where a joint has to be. ‘Live’ and ‘dead’ knots are problematic in this material. Try ripping the board down to a 22mm thick section, then make ‘em for square; then, make a simple dovetail box for the workshop – fit the base and the lid. Sounds simple enough – but it ain’t; not with ‘construction’ timber. This stuff is hammered out by the mile; in a stud wall – the flaws don’t signify – but to make ‘something’ of the timber is a challenge. But, from skips, it’s mostly a free lesson. Take a 300mm off-cut – make it square; cut it in half ‘square’ then make a simple bridal joint, warts and all. Take a 600mm offcut, rip it, then make it square; then cut three dovetails and matching pins to make a workshop box – square, flat and level. Learn to master the rough, tough, not sawn to suit a purpose timber off-cuts, from the skip, then, when you decide to make something from a ‘nice timber’ – the scrap bin will go hungry.

My two bob, spent as pleases me best.

 

[thetyreman]

skip wood is ok...as long as it's dry! that's the problem with it, you don't know where it's been, I have on occasion found some amazing stuff though but it's rare, usually it's old wood ripped out of an old building.

 

[Ttrees]

Not so Mr Tyreman
Skipped stuff is never green wood so it doesn't matter where its been.
Unless your diving into some framers one that works with green timbers...
I have stuff that was left out in the woods that was dry, or in really damp houses all exposed to the elements.
Hardwood timber when not green only takes a blink of time to dry, like a few days only.
Most recycled timbers especially hardwoods like from doors and windows are exposed to damp and normally have varnish on them
so you can just swipe it off with a plane and your down to bone dry stock.
Never had any moisture in the shop from the timbers.

 

[Tasky]

Thanks guys, but skips are off the cards.
There are none round here, usually, and even if I had time to trawl the whole town for them, people generally will not let you take from them.

We even have STACKS of wood right here at work. Every fibre belongs to the disposal company contracted to take it away... who, incidentally, are the civic amenity site just next door to our site.

 

[johnnyb]

One of the most valuable penny dropping moments is when you realize you can bespoke size and shape a piece of wood for a job. It sounds obvious but many joiners operate from a parameter of fixed sizes and square or rectangle. then the dog starts wagging the tail not vice versa!
Construction wood is spruce and can be great for some projects but an aspiring furniture maker is gonna be disappointed I think. In fact it's something that I think Paul sellers is mostly responsible for. Redwood is a beautiful timber to work minus knots.

 

[PiratePete]

If you just want to practice cutting joints tulip is fine, but it's not something you'd polish and be proud of.
I'd second (or third) black walnut. It always seems to me to have a nice consistent density and it polishes well.
I wouldn't use it for breadboards though.