What Wood & How to Cut

[Rewound]

Two Questions

Anyone identify this wood, when cut it looks orange, however I guess it will revert to that dark colour on the uncut bit after a month or two. For contrast I layed it upon a bit of Walnut inlayed into some pine. (just wanted to show off my inlay - LOL)

And second question -

I am wanting to take some 2mm strips from this bit of Cherry for inlaying purposes , Which direction would be the best to cut it , A or B ?

 

[J-G]

Anyone identify this wood, when cut it looks orange, however I guess it will revert to that dark colour on the uncut bit after a month or two.

I suggest 'Padauk' - I've used it quite a bit and not found it to revert to the 'brown' - I do (naturally) use sanding sealer and MC Wax as a finish - specifically I made some Christmas Cruet sets using it for the Father Christmas 'Hat' some three years ago and they still retain their deep Orange/Red.

One of my current projects is a Clock - - - and the centre section of the face is Padauk.

 

[Orraloon]

Agree with the Padauk ID.
As to cutting direction B will be quarter sawn and more stable. Direction A will show more grain pattern. If you planed the already split faces it will give a preview of what to expect cutting either way.
Regards
John

 

[Ttrees]

Here's an interesting video, well....if quartersawn figure is what your after.

 

[Rewound]

I suggest 'Padauk' - I've used it quite a bit and not found it to revert to the 'brown' - I do (naturally) use sanding sealer and MC Wax as a finish - specifically I made some Christmas Cruet sets using it for the Father Christmas 'Hat' some three years ago and they still retain their deep Orange/Red.

Thanks for that, I was thinking Padauk too, so great to get some confirmation, esp from someone who has used it. And what a lovely job of that clock face you're making!

Is it just that fast drying celulose based sanding sealer that you are using ? I guess application as soon as sanding is finished is important to retaining colour ?

 

[J-G]

Thanks for that, I was thinking Padauk too, so great to get some confirmation, esp from someone who has used it. And what a lovely job of that clock face you're making!

Is it just that fast drying celulose based sanding sealer that you are using ? I guess application as soon as sanding is finished is important to retaining colour ?

Thanks @Rewound - Yes the Chestnut SS, though I'm not too precious about the timing I tend to go through the grits up to 240 then apply a 'grain filler' - you'll notice that the grain on Padauk is quite open (it's one of the 'tell-tale' signs) and since I've not come across 'Padauk Grain Filler' I use a 'Mahogany'. This is left to dry (24 hours usually) then more sanding to 400 grit when it gets a coat of Sealer another light sanding at 400, and a second coat and sanding to 600. That is usually sufficient but I have been known to 'go again'. The final abrasion is 0000 wire wool.

One thing that you should be aware of is that it does tend to 'bleed' - - - on the clock face the grain on the Spalted Birch has been contaminated with red so choice of mating woods needs to be considered.

 

[forest2furniture]

Two Questions

Anyone identify this wood, when cut it looks orange, however I guess it will revert to that dark colour on the uncut bit after a month or two. For contrast I layed it upon a bit of Walnut inlayed into some pine. (just wanted to show off my inlay - LOL)

And second question -

I am wanting to take some 2mm strips from this bit of Cherry for inlaying purposes , Which direction would be the best to cut it , A or B ?

If you cut in the direction of A the pieces will warp as the growth rings will try to straighten themselves, so the best way to achieve stable timber is to cut in the direction of B

 

[Hornbeam]

If you are only cutting 2mm thickness for inlays and gluing onto a good substrate then the issue of warping doesnt really factor. So A will give you a crown cut and B will give you quarter sawn. You could plane the surfaces at 90 degrees and then take alternating cuts of A and then B so you will get a mix

 

[accipiter]

I'll also offer to confirm Padauk having used in over 32 years ago in producing Falconry blocks. Turns nicely except for the red dust everywhere. I still have a couple of unused pieces from back then. Unfortunately I can't at this time upload any photos.

 

[thetyreman]

padauk +1, watch out for the sawdust it's nasty to work with, I am sensitised to it, wear a mask.