What thickness cladding should I use?

[Rob Cheetham]

I used 150 mm tanalised featheredge fixed with 50mm sheradized lost head nails. Board overlap was about 30mm, different on end to sides so as to get site lines around openings. Thin edge 6mm, thick edge 18mm. This was onto a 4 x 2 studwork that was wrapped with felt, insulated with rockwool and lined with 10mm ply. I did this over 20 years ago and would repeat the method but probably with an air gap behind the featheredge. The shed is 8x5m.

ColinView attachment 110419View attachment 110420

Great build there @eribaMotters. This is what I aspire mine to be like tbh lol. Just a few questions if you dont mind me asking.

* What roof pitch did you to for the roof and how high did you go for the top plate of the walls?
* What did you use for the trim around the doors, windows, conrers etc as it looks great?
* For all the trim did you fix it ontop of the cladding or did you fix it first then but the cladding up to it?
* What roof did you go for as it looks really top quality.
* Any tips on fitting of pvc doors and windows to timber frame as im looking at fitting a pvc door and window

Sorry if thats alot to ask as I know you said you did it 20 years ago so may not remember but any help will do. I cant believe its 20 years old. Looks brand new still

Thanks in advance and once again, great build

 

[timothyedoran]

.
good looking build there. I like the rustic look. Those feather edge boards look huge and fresh of the mill lol. Have they got live edge on them too. Are they the 32mm like mike suggested? How easy was the pvc windows to fit as im thinking putting in a pvc door and window.

Sorry for the slow reply.
The boards are live edge both sides and about 300-450mm wide. Much wider than I expected. I think they are 25mm thick boards.

Re windows, easy to fix they just screw in to the wooden holes you make. I recommend looking at the details from Mike or others as to how to do the framing for a Window. Doubling up the upright on either side is common. Also don't underestimate how far forwards the cladding comes. I had to unscrew and push the windows further forwards.
Keep an eye out for second hand windows they are a good buy. Second hand doors are less good value as people tend to sell when they are worn out.

 

[eribaMotters]

Great build there @eribaMotters. This is what I aspire mine to be like tbh lol. Just a few questions if you dont mind me asking.

* What roof pitch did you to for the roof and how high did you go for the top plate of the walls?
* What did you use for the trim around the doors, windows, conrers etc as it looks great?
* For all the trim did you fix it ontop of the cladding or did you fix it first then but the cladding up to it?
* What roof did you go for as it looks really top quality.
* Any tips on fitting of pvc doors and windows to timber frame as im looking at fitting a pvc door and window

Sorry if thats alot to ask as I know you said you did it 20 years ago so may not remember but any help will do. I cant believe its 20 years old. Looks brand new still

Thanks in advance and once again, great build

Rob,
* Roof pitch was determined by max height allowed. The ridge was 4m and I think the top of my 4x2 studwork sitting on a 3 brick high dwarf wall was about 2.3m
* The trim around windows and doors was 4x1 tanalised. For the ends of the building I cut a 3/4" square rebate into a piece of 2x2. This was nailed onto the corners of the shed, the feartheredge butted up tight to it and then a capping piece fixed over the join.
* I fitted the trim onto the framework and butted the cladding up to it around the door and windows
* The roof was artificial slates, about 600 x 300, fived with copper nails and clips onto 2x1 battens.
* I cant help with the plastic windows/door as I made mine out of softwood, soaked in green cuprinol, aluminium primed and then top coated with Dulux Weathershield Aquatec. This is over £100 for 5L, but I bit the bullet and used it on the whole building. Although very expensive at first it work out cheap as every 4 years I would srub wash the whole building and use less than a tin to recoat everything.

Other points that might be of use. I made the building up from a series of studwork frames bolted together and sitting on the dwarf wall, sandwiching a dpc. Roof structure was traditional rafters up to a 7x1 ridgeboard. 1/3 up each rafter was a 4x2 tie to the rafter on the opposite site. The 5m span was the maximum you can do with 4x2. I added some some odd lengths of 2x1 nailed to the top of these cross piece at an angle to help reduce racking. I doubt this was needed as 9mm ply fixed as a ceiling material was very rigid.

Hope this help - Colin