What thickness cladding should I use?

[Rob Cheetham]

Hey.

I'm designing and building my own shed/workshop. I'm doing it Mike's way (based on another thread on here).

I'm designing it through sketchup currently and am at the point of putting in the cladding.

I'm stuck at what thickness to use. I have heard no less than 12mm. Is that right?

The wall structure is as follows from inside out

11mm osb, 2x4 framing with rockwool insulation, breather membrane, counter batons (for air gap) then cladding

What thickness shiplap cladding would people reccomend?

And also

Does anybody know of any good sources online for cheap but still good quality cladding. Also any places in the east Midlands?

Thank you in advance

 

[Cabinetman]

Bennetts timber in Grimsby are usually very competitive and helpful and they deliver. Ian

 

[Gordon Tarling]

My shed is built from 16mm shiplap and is very sturdy - don't think I'd really want to use anything thinner. Woodlines in Grantham is where I bought my shiplap, but I think that you have to go where you're able to get it at the moment.

Gordon

 

[Terry - Somerset]

My shed has 12mm shiplap. Although quite solid and reasonably priced when bought 10 years ago, over time the wood has moved and twisted a little due to sun etc. Can now see through some of the gaps.

I would go for as thick as is reasonably affordable as it is likely to extend the life materially. 16/18mm would be my choice if repeating the exercise.

 

[Fitzroy]

The cladding is really just acting as a rain screen, it needs to be mechanically strong enough to not warp and create gaps as it weathers. 12mm feels on the limit for this.

Haha - overlap with TS experience that 12mm has created some gaps due to weathering.

 

[BucksDad]

From memory Mike has used and recommends 32mm feather edge

 

[Rob Cheetham]

My shed is built from 16mm shiplap and is very sturdy - don't think I'd really want to use anything thinner. Woodlines in Grantham is where I bought my shiplap, but I think that you have to go where you're able to get it at the moment.

Gordon

I'm guessing that is finished thickness at 16 as I'm surprised when you read 16mm then read finished measurements and it's about 4mm thinner haha

From memory Mike has used and recommends 32mm feather edge

Yes you are correct. 175x32 lapped at 25 it says. Its just I thought shiplap was classed as better than feather edge. Though in Mike's diagram the cladding is shown as having a lapped joint a bit like shiplap but not as air tight.

Is this a special type of feather edge he is on about and not just the simple stuff used to build fence panels with?

Would it matter in using say 16/18mm shiplap as the workshop is 10x17 so is going to be pricey and would like to keep the scales level between price and quality if possible if you know what I mean. Cheers

 

[baldkev]

Best to leave a circulation gap top and bottom, which also means you should consider fly screen to stop insects getting up in there....

 

[Rob Cheetham]

Best to leave a circulation gap top and bottom, which also means you should consider fly screen to stop insects getting up in there....

Yes you are rite. The air gap is about 23mm and I will leave about the same top and bottom

 

[Cabinetman]

If you want to fit and forget and never have a problem for years, have a look at Hardie planks same material as Hardie backer boards for wet rooms and tiling. Ian

 

[user22161]

If you want to fit and forget and never have a problem for years, have a look at Hardie planks same material as Hardie backer boards for wet rooms and tiling. Ian

Getting on in years, I'm all for fit and forget. Another alternative is cellular uPVC cladding, which will last for years but in common with Hardie, seems expensive when we take into account there's no labour cost at home for DIY repeated painting/re-coating of cheaper timber. I was a technical rep for Celuform cladding for a few years and have also used it on a few jobs myself.

 

[Gordon Tarling]

How are these Hardie boards fixed to the outside of a shed? Nailed? Screwed or some other method?

 

[timothyedoran]

Good to hear you are following mike's advice. I followed it and it worked well for me. I would avocate the use of wood. Not only for the ease or building with it but it's also much lower carbon than the Hardie board and won't look carp like pvc would.
Here is a picture or mine.

 

[Sandyn]

I just used 150 x 18mm treated sarking, overlapped, then coated with a preservative paint. It will outlast me.

 

[Spectric]

I could not find any decent shiplap or featherboard that I would waste my time fitting, so talking to a local timber yard that did not sell either I asked how they build the sheds they supply, it was simple just use 25mm thick boards by 7 inch and starting at the bottom work up overlapping by 2 to 2.5 inchs. This I did and attached using screws with barrel heads and opposing threads to pull in tight and all has been great, but not the cheapest option and not the lightest.

 

[topchippyles]

Hey.

I'm designing and building my own shed/workshop. I'm doing it Mike's way (based on another thread on here).

I'm designing it through sketchup currently and am at the point of putting in the cladding.

I'm stuck at what thickness to use. I have heard no less than 12mm. Is that right?

The wall structure is as follows from inside out

11mm osb, 2x4 framing with rockwool insulation, breather membrane, counter batons (for air gap) then cladding

What thickness shiplap cladding would people reccomend?

And also

Does anybody know of any good sources online for cheap but still good quality cladding. Also any places in the east Midlands?

Thank you in advance

12 mm is to thin and shame your not closer to me as just milled up a load of larch

 

[topchippyles]

Good to hear you are following mike's advice. I followed it and it worked well for me. I would avocate the use of wood. Not only for the ease or building with it but it's also much lower carbon than the Hardie board and won't look carp like pvc would.
Here is a picture or mine.
View attachment 110396

Just milled up a pile of larch and love the shed by the way

 

[Jameshow]

Try henshaw timber in Shipley.

Good quality and they deliver nationwide.

Cheers James

 

[eribaMotters]

I used 150 mm tanalised featheredge fixed with 50mm sheradized lost head nails. Board overlap was about 30mm, different on end to sides so as to get site lines around openings. Thin edge 6mm, thick edge 18mm. This was onto a 4 x 2 studwork that was wrapped with felt, insulated with rockwool and lined with 10mm ply. I did this over 20 years ago and would repeat the method but probably with an air gap behind the featheredge. The shed is 8x5m.

Colin

 

[Rob Cheetham]

Good to hear you are following mike's advice. I followed it and it worked well for me. I would avocate the use of wood. Not only for the ease or building with it but it's also much lower carbon than the Hardie board and won't look carp like pvc would.
Here is a picture or mine.
View attachment 110396

.
good looking build there. I like the rustic look. Those feather edge boards look huge and fresh of the mill lol. Have they got live edge on them too. Are they the 32mm like mike suggested? How easy was the pvc windows to fit as im thinking putting in a pvc door and window.