What is the correct chisel to use for opening metal paint tins?

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Wifey buys Dulux paint brushes the two tone blue ones with a built in paint can opener at the end of the handle when they die I cut the bristles off and keep the opener
 
They don't close properly after being opened a couple of times, which shortens the life expectancy of the contents - that's a bonus for the manufacturer, you have to buy it again.
The old trick is to put the lid back on and then briefly turn the can upside down, so the paint forms a good seal inside. Avoid the paint going off from any tiny amount of air entering through the lid no longer fitting perfectly. Of course some will go off just from the air space in the can when it is not full, nothing you can easily do about that.
 
I read a tip that you should put clingfilm over the top of the tin before you put the lid on to help it seal and stop it sticking, I tried it but it didn't seem to help much.
I have put cling film on the surface of the paint before refitting the lid. Idea was to prevent a skin forming, seemed to work, removed film and paint underneath was ok.
 
Thanks all for your replies - including the humorous ones. It seems that I am not alone in my frustration with paint cans.

The tools recommended all look like screwdrivers to me. Sure they lever the lid edge from underneath but does that really make a difference? I guess for a few quid I could afford to find out.

As far as resealing tins - I had heard the invert-to-seal trick before. Might give it a go. I knew someone (a caretaker by trade I think) who stored his paint tins upside-down. If a skin forms then it is *below* the paint when you open the tin. Good theory, not sure if it works in practice.

I have a 2.5l tin of dulux satinwood that seems to have been used as a football in the warehouse (delivery box undamaged, paint tin sealed with masking tape). Not a problem as I complained and got a full refund without having to return the paint. No way am I going to get a good seal on that next time around, so I have bought some empty 0.5l tins to decant the remaining paint to when the job is done.

I have another can 0.5l of specialist paint. The material the can is made from seems little thicker than foil. It was this can that prompted my question as the lid is well distorted now. I will probably use one of the 500ml empties that I bought. Buying empty cans is going to be an expensive way to save paint, hence my question about a tool for opening.

I could imagine a wide blade with a concave curve that would fit the curve of the lid. Then the lid would be lifted along, say 2" of its length rather than 1/4". Of course there would need to be diferent radii for the different size tins, but I am not sure that 0.5l or 1.0l would need them.

Anyway, thanks to all for the suggestions.
 
I prefer to use proportional dividers. If the tips don't bend too much initially you can hammer on the other end with a small sledge to perforate the lid to get additional prying traction!

Eric..

(running and ducking)


Sorry could't resist
 
I know someone who gave up trying to get a metal lid off so used a tin opener on the bottom of the tin to get the paint out. Did the job and decanted the rest into another tin
 
What ⁉️ Two pages and no one has the correct answer (IMHO).

When I started my apprenticeship I was shown the correct way to open a paint can. You use the flat side of a putty knife (when we were in the paint shop we always had to have a putty knife in our overalls pocket) to lever off the lid, and work your way around (don't try to lift the lid solely at one point).

Ditto when putting the lid back on. A block of wood to spread the load and tap down only over the rim, working your way around. NEVER hit the lid near the middle (unless you don't care if it seals or not).

...through a piece of women's tights. It's the cheapest fine filter material I've come across and works a treat.
A wife and two daughters in the house, and not one wears tights, stockings or panty hose. I have to go buy muslin cloth if I want to strain liquids :(.

Cheers, Vann.
 
The old trick is to put the lid back on and then briefly turn the can upside down, so the paint forms a good seal inside. Avoid the paint going off from any tiny amount of air entering through the lid no longer fitting perfectly. Of course some will go off just from the air space in the can when it is not full, nothing you can easily do about that.
I was given a tip many years ago to take a deep breath and breathe into the tin immediately before placing the lid back. Apparently more CO2 and less oxygen slows down the process of paint going off. Have always done this and it seems to work. 😄
 
I was given a tip many years ago to take a deep breath and breathe into the tin immediately before placing the lid back. Apparently more CO2 and less oxygen slows down the process of paint going off. Have always done this and it seems to work. 😄
I always drop a silver teaspoon in the can, that way you don't even need to put the lid back on.
 
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