What finish for outdoor oak to last a year?

[Chems]

We've had a death in the family and I've been asked to make the cross for the year until a headstone can be put in. I've made it out of 1 inch oak 85mm wide with a my first ever half lap joint, no picture of it together but you'll have to believe me it was snug and perfect:




I've never made anything for outdoors, I want it to remain in good condition for the year could someone recommend a strong finish that can be used for outside that will protect it from the elements. It will be placed in the ground with a fence post stake so no actual oak sub-surface to worry about.

As I've left it a bit late to ask, be great if the finish was available off the shelf from Screwfix/Toolstation or the like as I only need a small quantity and don't want to risk an internet order and it not to arrive in time.

 

[RogerP]

European/English oak is an extremely durable wood and does not actually need any protection. It will turn a silvery colour after a while outside in the elements. American white oak is slightly less durable.

You could use something like Ronseal Clear Outdoor Varnish which is readily available but I would just leave it au naturel.

 

[mtr1]

I used yacht varnish on one I made. But as already said there is no need, it will last a year easily without(perhaps 5).

 

[Paul Chapman]

I've made a couple and left them without a finish. One was pine and one was oak. They stood up to the elements very well.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[hammer n nails]

You could apply 3 coats of Danish oil or leave it as it is to go silver.

 

[Karl]

I presume Chems is trying to avoid the silvering effect, and have it looking fresh in 12 months time.

 

[Benchwayze]

I like the silver weathered look. I have some nice 1/4 sawn oak pieces lying in the yard. When I get around to the chest of drawers I want, I'll just wire brush the surface, and give it a coat of Linseed. Should make nice drawer-fronts. If I change my mind, (i.e., never get a round 'tuit) I can always use it for firewood. :mrgreen:

John (hammer)

 

[Chems]

I didn't know oak stood up so well outside on the whole.

I presume Chems is trying to avoid the silvering effect, and have it looking fresh in 12 months time.

I'd quite like it to remain fairly un-weathered yeah. Would some danish oil provide that?

 

[Benchwayze]

I'd use some of that... 'It does what it says on the tin'.
Comes in all shades and it's off the shelf Chems. I used it on a picnic table, for the bits that weren't cedar wood. Stood up well for three years.
HTH
John

 

[Chems]

Ronseal you mean, just encase I'm mixing up my catch phrases?

 

[imageel]

Chems - Oak will certainly last a lot longer than a year as other have said, however it will turn silver grey mainly as a result of UV bleaching the tanins in the wood.
So if you want it to remain brown I would suggest you look for some oil/varnish that offers UV protection as to my knowledge certainly Linseed oil does not, but am sure others here can tell you which ones do :wink:
Cheers
Ed

 

[Chems]

I've heard good things about Osmo UV stuff for windows, but don't think its something a shed or screwfix would stock.

I have some linseed oil thou. Perhaps a home brew of linseed oil, danish oil and a bit of UV protect finished off with a nice lacquer would be over kill?!

 

[OPJ]

James - if you do want to try some of Osmo's UV oil, I could probably send you some in an empty jam jar. Don't think I have any other suitable containers to hand. Also not sure where it would reach you in time?

I'd also like to remind you that, only a few months ago, my large tin was looking like this:

By all accounts, there don't appear to be many negative comments said against the product. One criticism I have noticed is that some believe it's not suitable for horiztonal surfaces outdoors (eg. window cills).

 

[Benchwayze]

Chems.

Ronseal is as good as anything

I used oak for the number plate on my house.
I cleaned it up with a plane of course, then I rubbed in some Exterior grade Evo-stick Resin-W, until it was worked well into the grain. (You could use Uni-Bond. It's just PVA.) When dry, I sanded back a little, then applied a couple of coats of Tekaloid Car Varnish. (Yacht Varnish would do best though.) My number board lasted about three years before I had to repeat. It is still over an inch thick, but I think it's due for another servicing as described! I wonder if I discovered a new use for PVA?

I've also used PVA to prime canvases before painting in oils. It works great and no chance of the oil soaking through and rotting canvas.


HTH John

 

[Shrubby]

Anything Exterior/yacht rated should have UV protection in it. I'd be tempted to leave it raw to go silver - oak is very durable stuff
Matt

 

[Chems]

Thanks Olly, I'd take you up on that but probably won't arrive by the weekend v.kind offer thou.

I'll probably give the Ronseal a go then, unless I try a crazy mix of PVA glue, linseed oil and danish oil topped off with acrylic lacquer?!

 

[Chems]

Anything Exterior/yacht rated should have UV protection in it. I'd be tempted to leave it raw to go silver - oak is very durable stuff
Matt

The only reason I'm shying away from the silvering route is it has some very detailed engraving and I'm worried that with the drying and possibly splitting process something may happen to these (I've photoshopped out the full name, this been the internet and all):