What’s the very best caulk / sealant / adhesive

[deema]

Happy New Year, I’ve now got a major project of painting and decorating to start 2024 and I just love painting….not! Anyway, this is for our forever home, so I want to prep for paint using the best longest lasting products I can find. Ive got skirting, architrave, windows etc to prep. I’ve also bits in the bathrooms to seal up.
I don’t want it to crack, I want it to be paintable, for the bathrooms I would like it to be mould resistant

What’s the best products to use. I’ve been looking at CT1 and BT1, any good? Anything better? What would you use? I’m not after budget, I’m after the best of the best (any MiB fans?) (UK purchase)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Try to find both a thick caulk and a thin one - it's easier to caulk small gaps with a thin one and large ones with a thicker one.

 

[Etaf]

only a DIYer , but have used CT1 for years & BT1 on bathroom , ensuite recently - when it was released.

for caulk i use NEMESIS MIGHTY DECORATORS CAULK

CT1 i have used in cast iron gutters joints works great and various other exterior/interior places , also good as an adhesive
This is my goto silicon for most jobs

BUT nemisis is instantly paintable , so used on skirting and other gaps interior where painting was required.

but as i say - just DIY and not trade

 

[Sideways]

Not yet tried but when I was looking for adhesives I came across this one. A hybrid polymer jobbie but this is a combined adhesive and waterproof sealant.
It'a about £1 a tube dearer than the adhesive only equivalent.
https://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/adhesives/hybrid-sealants/stixall/
If you are going to use a lot, try a couple of different ones first before going all in on one formula.

Everbuild make a newer formula of the combined adhesive / sealant called EB25 but I found that pretty thick. I'd want one of those high leverage caulking guns to squeeze that out of the tube.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've yet to find an Everbuild product that's not good.

 

[Spectric]

If you are only filling in gaps for decorative finish and not structural then decorators caulk is great and designed for the job. Fill gaps and wipe over to give nice paint ready finish.

https://www.mypaintbrush.co.uk/geocel-painters-mate-310ml
If you want to make life easier then buy some decent brushes as they make a lot of difference as I have found out and buy paint from a trade centre not a local shed. I now only use Jonhstones as it is a good quality for the price, much better than Dulux and better than crown plus they mix to any color you want. Brushes then look at Picasso

https://www.mypaintbrush.co.uk/buy-paint-brush/angled-cut-brushes
and for laying off use

https://www.mypaintbrush.co.uk/buy-paint-brush/Laying-off-brushes/staalmeester-one-1050-05
and don't forget the bib and braces as it might make you look and feel the part.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

An if you've not got one and use oil based paints - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brush-Trad...0&psc=1&mcid=cb9e373c5a283c7f9cf22adfae51d401

Look for the best price. It'll pay for itself in wasted white spirit and save hours.

 

[HOJ]

Does make you wonder what we did we did before stuff in a tube came along.

My old work buddy always said "Its not down to the decorator to make your work good"

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Polyfilla and putty.

 

[Doug B]

Does make you wonder what we did we did before stuff in a tube came along.

For once I know the answer to this as my dear old dad was asked the same question many years ago the answer was quite simple “we did the job properly“

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Is your dad Jacob?

 

[HOJ]

“we did the job properly“

Seems to me that's long been forgotten how too.

I regularly get told by my other half, (she works with me), and work mates that "Your not making a @@@@@@@ watch"

 

[eribaMotters]

I don't know how many different types of caulk I've used over the years, but I do know I've always needed more than one application.
This was highlighted by the refurb I did on our previous bungalow. I spent about 12 months on an internal re-fit of all second fit along with built in furniture. When I finished I went back to the start and re-caulked extensively. When we sold a couple of years later nothing had opened up again.

Colin

 

[BucksDad]

You could drop a message to this guy and ask him what he uses https://www.youtube.com/@southcoastsealantsltd

(Perusing his comments, he recommends the Cox Skeleton Sealant gun and says Mapei is the best silicone)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't know how many different types of caulk I've used over the years, but I do know I've always needed more than one application.
Colin

It's often easier and better to accept from the beginning that it'll take two hits and just pump some in and let it dry without attempting to finish it.

 

[Doug71]

Seems to me that's long been forgotten how too.

I regularly get told by my other half, (she works with me), and work mates that "Your not making a @@@@@@@ watch"

"Yeah there's meant to be a gap, it's better for the caulk" is used a lot these days............

 

[Bingy man]

I’ve found that many caulks are the Same , I avoid ghe really cheap and the ridiculously expensive - ever build is good but so is soudal , toupret is my go to filler for bigger holes and gaps. If using caulk in old plaster gaps then a hoover and crevice tool will work wonders to remove any excess dust . A spray with a small pressure sprayer ( old kitchen cleaner spray bottle ) washed of course will dampen the gap and help the caulk adhere , a 2nd coat if needed and a wipe with a warm damp cloth to finish ..

 

[Spectric]

Does make you wonder what we did we did before stuff in a tube came along.

The oil based paints were thicker and contained lead.

 

[Dee J]

Does make you wonder what we did we did before stuff in a tube came along.

Some build procedures were different - skirting and architrave were fixed before final plaster.
Otherwise fill materials were generally various blends of dry powder such as chalk, cement, gypsum, wood dust, etc in oil, water, glue, casein, shellac, egg, starch, or mixed emulsion binders. The resultant 'stuff' might be termed putty, gesso, compo, stopping, grain filler, and a whole range of other trade or art specific terms. These mixes can be made setting or non-setting, waterproof or soluble, fine or coarse.
These recipes were learnt, according to trade, as part of an apprenticeship, and were often mixed from raw material as needed.
The post WW2 skills shortages, combined with the rise of DIY culture and industrialisation/deskilling has resulted in a proliferation of commercial products from Polyfilla through to modified polymers via epoxies, silicones etc.
As much as I turn too premixed lightweight fillers and modified polymers for quick DIY results, in my oil painting I still return to the old materials and methods.

 

[GuitardoctorW7]

Happy New Year, I’ve now got a major project of painting and decorating to start 2024 and I just love painting….not! Anyway, this is for our forever home, so I want to prep for paint using the best longest lasting products I can find. Ive got skirting, architrave, windows etc to prep. I’ve also bits in the bathrooms to seal up.
I don’t want it to crack, I want it to be paintable, for the bathrooms I would like it to be mould resistant

What’s the best products to use. I’ve been looking at CT1 and BT1, any good? Anything better? What would you use? I’m not after budget, I’m after the best of the best (any MiB fans?) (UK purchase)

I follow a guy on Twitter (X) Gary Burton. He's a professional painter and decorator but in a different class to most (light blue touch paper). He often posts tips about paints, sealants, caulking materials etc. His restoration of Victorian plaster cornices and roses is fascinating. https://twitter.com/TheOfficialGRB