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Rob_H

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I'm trying to follow the advice on the David Charlesworth DVD and have decided to go for waterstones for sharpening. He suggests using an 8000g waterstone, which is much more expensive than the 6000g. If I go for a 800g and a 1200g, is there much noticeable difference between the 6000g and the 8000g?
 
I will answer first - I know that there will be many more experienced come along soon. However, having struggled for years to get really sharp handtools, I bought the Veritas Mk 2 hining guide on a whim. Suddenly everthing was transformed and seemed ridiculously easy. I use an 800, 1200 and 4000 waterstone together with the nagura stone which, when used with the 4000, produce mirror finish chisels and planes which one could, if one wanted, shave ones beard with
Best wishes
Not an employee etc of veritas - just v impressed with this bit of kit
 
Yes, I'm going to get the Veritas honing guide too.
 
Rob - have you bought your waterstones yet????

I have a set (220 grit Norton stone, 800, 1200, 6000 King stones + Nagura + stone holder) which I would be willing to sell for half retail price. Had very little use.

Cheers

Karl

Edit - i'll even flatten them for you first (although you'll need to learn how to do this yourself too :lol:).
 
I have a set (220 grit Norton stone, 800, 1200, 6000 King stones + Nagura + stone holder) which I would be willing to sell for half retail price. Had very little use

:D Beat me to it, I have a set I would be willing to pass on, just not got round to it.

Alan
 
Rob
For your original question, I used to have a 10K stone, as well as the 1000, 4000, 6000 stones. Never really noticed the difference enough to justify the huge cost of the fine stone.
The finish I get from a 6000 stone is very good - I think you'll be very happy with it.
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
.

Just a point to consider using any type of roller based honing guide on Japanese water stones. In use, the stone generates slurry which will, sooner or later enter the roller mechanism and create serious wear. They have a limited life used in this way.

Personally I have given up water stones in favour of diamond plates, though the Veritas honing guide is every bit as good as Gasman claimed.

A few strokes on a very fine diamond and it's as sharp as I need.

..
 
I use the Norton combination stones - 220/1000 plus 4000/8000 - together with a Veritas Mk2 guide.

There is a definate difference between 4000 and 8000, but I'm not sure what the difference would be between 6000 and 8000.

The only problem I've had is keeping the coarser stones flat. Once these wear out I'll probably go for DMT's

The roler on the Veritas wears quite a lot. I tried to lubricate it with oil but this was a big mistake. It gets into the water and puts an oil slick onto everything.

I now use lithium grease between the roller and the spindle. This works very well and stays put.

Good luck,
 
To through another variation in, I use the 'Scary Sharp' approach through to 1200 grit and then finish on a 6000 grit King stone - avoids the problem of constant flattening on the courser, softer stone, but give the waterstone quality end result.

One thing on the Veritas guide, (not a criticism but a thought from Sir DC), the traditional 'eclipse; style guide is favoured by DC as it allows a camber to be easily applied to plane blades. Yes, I know there is an accessory for the Veritas, but you are £70+ down at that point vs £5 for the eclipse that, even as a novice, I have had really A1 results from. May be worth a punt before going for the Rolls-Royce?

Simon.
 
Argus":3hp2hgan said:
.

Just a point to consider using any type of roller based honing guide on Japanese water stones. In use, the stone generates slurry which will, sooner or later enter the roller mechanism and create serious wear. They have a limited life used in this way.

Personally I have given up water stones in favour of diamond plates, though the Veritas honing guide is every bit as good as Gasman claimed.

A few strokes on a very fine diamond and it's as sharp as I need.

..

Noticed a guide that rolls on the bench behind the stone in the Tilgear catalogue.
 
SVB":2ps0i9nn said:
One thing on the Veritas guide, (not a criticism but a thought from Sir DC), the traditional 'eclipse; style guide is favoured by DC as it allows a camber to be easily applied to plane blades. Yes, I know there is an accessory for the Veritas, but you are £70+ down at that point vs £5 for the eclipse that, even as a novice, I have had really A1 results from. May be worth a punt before going for the Rolls-Royce?

Simon.
This is a good point. At West Dean last weekend we were discussing the merits of the Eclipse clone guide with Denib whats'isname :? from LN who agreed that it will do almost everything, 'specially if it's used in conjunction with a projection 'bench hook' I've been looking for ages for something that's a universal honing guide and such a beast doesn't exist...I think. I have a MrC modified Eclipse clone which I can use for everything in my 'shop apart from skew chisels. The Eclipse is defo worth playing around with before shelling out megaeuros on the Veritas guide - Rob
 

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