Was i dreaming?..

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Right here's the thing...

I'm pretty sure, although I now can't find it, that I've seen a mitre jointing router bit. Its a cutter that joins the mitred edge together in a similar way to a T&G groove.

So that on the edges where the mitre meets there is a joint more or less the same as a Tongue & Groove, so will provide the look of simple mitred edge, but has good strength from the joint, instead of just relying on the glue.

I suppose I could just use a T&G set/cutter, with a mitre fence. But the one I'm thinking of does the 45 degree for the mitre as well. Or was I in fact just dreaming!? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance_Dan

 

[mailee]

No you weren't dreaming here it is: http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... r_143.html
I have one and find it is great for MDF. HTH. :wink:

 

[Mike.C]

Dan is this the one you mean?

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/power-tools-& ... 4%22-s=1_2

Cheers

Mike

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Dan,

Sound like a Mitre-Lock cutter to me. Here's a little job I made using one:

You might just about make out the corners...

Available from Axminster or Wealdons amongst others.

Cheers

Richard

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Top notch chaps, that's what I call a speed reply!

Milee: I thought I'd scanned Wealdens, guess not. That's where I've seen them before. Nice one.

Mike.C: I've never used Rutlands before, what are they like generally, and what are the bits like? Because I've got some Wealden bits and they're pretty decent bits of kit from what I can tell so far.

Thanks again

 

[ondablade]

Just in case: Felder do a version for a spindle moulder too that does a similar joint, but in material 14 - 26mm thick. A second larger version goes 16 - 35mm thick.

RB-HW Mitre Glue Joint Cutter Head 45deg no. 500-04-040 (26mm), or 04.0.560 (35mm). Use dots and hyphens as shown in the numbers should you end up searching on the website - it seems to matter...

 

[Mike.C]

Although they are not as good as Wealden they are not far behind, especially when you take the price into consideration. I have quite a few and they have never let me down. But if money is no object then I would stick with Wealden.

As for Rutlands if the goods are delivered and you have no problems Rutlands are great, but if you need to contact customer service then you may have a problem

Cheers

Mike

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Richard: Yeah, that's what I'm after, can see it clearly on the left hand side corner. Nice piece too.

Ondablade: I don't use a spindle moulder mate, Just got 2x DeWalt routers DW625/ 626/ But thanks for the info all the same.

Cheers all, v.concise.

 

[custard]

I've used the Wealden version to mitre boxes using a Festool 1400 on a Festool table. And it works very well for this application.

I'd be cautious however for using it on bigger projects. The second cut is performed with the workpiece held vertically, and if it's just a fraction out from vertical the quality and integrity of the glue joint falls away very quickly. In other words the fence height has to grow in step with the scale of the project. As a rule of thumb I'd suggest the fence needs to be at least one third the length of the workpiece, and it needs to be very rigid and accurate. With a shorter fence I was getting overall better results from other solutions, like cutting a traditional 45 degree mitre and splining the joint.

The other draw back is the appearance of the Wealdon cut mitre joint. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but to my eye it looks a bit too "machine made". To get over this I laid a veneer strip around the top edge with a normal 45 degree mitre. But that's adding a lot more work and isn't always appropriate for all projects.

 

[stuartpaul]

I've had one of these cutters for years and simply haven't been able to get on with it.

Try as I might the joint has never fitted properly. As someone who always takes smaller cuts with the router table I also find it a bit disconcerting taking what to me are quite large chunks off a bit of wood!

I'll stick to me table saw

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Right, ok well what's the best way to re-enforce a mitre joint then?

This sounded like the ideal solution, but I didn't know they weren't that reliable if the fence and set-up aren't spot on. I've never done splined mitre joints, although I am aware of them. Won't they leave end grain exposed to the outside of the piece? I imagine this will draw attention to the mitre-joint, when (in my case anyway) a mitre-joint is usually used to create a seamless transition from one piece to the next.

Are they effective Set-up, Time-wise and Cosmetically, opinions?

The thought process behind the glue-joint/ mitre-lock router bit was that it would be a simple one step process that enhances the joints mechanical strength, without taking away from the aesthetic of the actual look of the joint, as the only visual sign of it is @ the top surface where it's visible. This will have a 45degree mitre or round over on it, but as 'Custard' says, may look out of place on some projects. I guess I'll only know when I've seen some in the flesh.

Thanks for all your feedback.

 

[dickm]

In one of Robert Wearing's books (Resourceful Woodworker?), there's a design for a mitre shooting jig using a router. This can be used with a wide cutter to shoot the main surface of the joint, then with a small cutter to cut a slot in the face ready to take the spline. This only shows on the end of the joint (like the locks on the mitre lock cutters shown earlier). I made up the jig some years ago, and find it very quick and easy to use. If you're interested, I'm sure I can find the detail reference.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Yes ****, that would be trés helpful. If it's a bit of a faff to do then I can just purchase the book myself (£4 off amazon). I'm sure there'll be a few interesting things in there as well as that jig. Cheers mate

 

[Digit]

Without a suitable set up Dan they are impossible to use!
As you pass the wood along the cutter you are left with a knife edge running against the fence.
I use them regularly but made up a special portable router table to over come the problems.
If you wish to use them I would suggest that you use a sled rather than the fence, assuming that such can run along the top of your fence, for the vertical cut.
They make a lovely strong joint but are probably the worst cutter to use.

Roy.