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Woodwork Journey Dean

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Location
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Right, so earlier I picked up three saws to restore. Bought the lot for a tenner.
Looking forward to bringing the Tyzack 14B back to life.

The other two are Warranted Superior. I’ve read a bunch on the WS medallions, from the Disston seconds to use from other brands.
I’ve seen the eagle, coat of arms, and that pot shape logo, but I cannot find a single one that looks like this.


1CCDC11B-2FC6-46F0-9A6F-36932A8C7A1D.jpeg


Any idea??

The design of the handle is pretty low key

9BF4882E-F63A-43AB-B931-A13A8C5ECF4F.jpeg


So I’m confident it’s not a posh one.


In case you wondered, this is the other WS I picked up with a slightly funkier handle

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And this is the Tyzack

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Looks like a European import from c1970.
I haven't seen that design, but similar tags without a through screw (but different face design) were used on some German import budget saws.
The other WS medallion is a typical British medallion with a screw through the handle and a nut on the other side. (brass screws look 1930s-40s era)
 
Looks like a European import from c1970.
I haven't seen that design, but similar tags without a through screw (but different face design) were used on some German import budget saws.
The other WS medallion is a typical British medallion with a screw through the handle and a nut on the other side. (brass screws look 1930s-40s era)
Yeah the red one is odd isn’t it. I can’t even figure out what the design in the middle is meant to be, it’s very odd.
 
The problem with renovating old saws is the rust causes so bad pitting that attempting to put a set on the teeth usually ends with those teeth snapping off. You would be better cleaning up the handle and spine (if it has one) and replacing the blade for new.

I tried to sort one myself years ago, but it was pretty much unsharpenable
 
The problem with renovating old saws is the rust causes so bad pitting that attempting to put a set on the teeth usually ends with those teeth snapping off. You would be better cleaning up the handle and spine (if it has one) and replacing the blade for new.

I tried to sort one myself years ago, but it was pretty much unsharpenable
I’ve done a couple so far and they’re in regular use 😊
 
So how did you deal with the pitting that heavy rust causes, which means the areas, especially around the teeth, are less than 1/2 the original thickness.
It’s just not really caused an issue so far.
I’ve been working on the Tyzack today and a bit of work on the blade and it’s come up super smooth.
Just waiting until tomorrow for the handle to dry and then I’ll get to sharpening

AD0D4CE7-A2E2-4491-ABE4-68F1C45F0587.jpeg
 
Looks like a European import from c1970.
I haven't seen that design, but similar tags without a through screw (but different face design) were used on some German import budget saws.
Yup weird medallion.

V unlikely UK. I have a Spanish saw with a similar handle but not that disc.

The logo looks a little like a tool used by blacksmiths for bending hot wrought iron.
 
A good score for a tenner. Rusty saws usually look worse than they are and I reserve judgement until the rust is off. Fair chance all 3 will be good workers. The Tyzac is the only one I recognize and I did up a very similar one some years ago. Its a nice saw to use. I reshaped the handle a bit just for looks.
IMG_1688.JPG
Regards
John
 
Well I hope it works out well for you. As said i'd problems with snapping teeth and it put me off attempting to renovate further, which is a shame because theres some extremely good saws out there.
You could always joint them if they were really bad and cut in and set new teeth
 
A good score for a tenner. Rusty saws usually look worse than they are and I reserve judgement until the rust is off. Fair chance all 3 will be good workers. The Tyzac is the only one I recognize and I did up a very similar one some years ago. Its a nice saw to use. I reshaped the handle a bit just for looks.
View attachment 155162
Regards
John

I’m super happy with how it came out, and it cuts well too, only had to sharpen it.
Could maybe do with a jointing and seeing again at some point in the future but does a grand job now

A150F15F-6C4B-463F-B8C0-393573C55711.jpeg
 
The problem with renovating old saws is the rust causes so bad pitting that attempting to put a set on the teeth usually ends with those teeth snapping off. .....
I had that prob with a nice old backsaw. Worked out that the steel was more brittle then a modern saw and a few teeth broke out from the root i.e. depth of the gullet. Adjusted the saw set so it only bent the top half (approx) of the tooth and no prob. Don't know what the difference is but old saws are different steel and I've got several very nice ones which are easy to sharpen and seem to keep an edge.
I tend to ignore rust as it balances out on both sides anyway.
 
I wonder it the blade is spring or maybe cast steel. The latter I reckon might be more brittle. But age and the deep pitting I think played more of a part.
 
I didn’t realise, but on the heaviest of the saws I picked up there is some engraving in the spine

Apparently it’s a John Elsworth and Sons with the propeller Trade mark.
Pretty cool I think and the spine is crazy heavy.

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I wonder it the blade is spring or maybe cast steel. The latter I reckon might be more brittle. But age and the deep pitting I think played more of a part.
Some of the older ones are marked cast steel. In saws, the steel was hardened to a lower level compared to chisels and plane irons. That's why they can be filed.
 
I didn’t realise, but on the heaviest of the saws I picked up there is some engraving in the spine

Apparently it’s a John Elsworth and Sons with the propeller Trade mark.
Pretty cool I think and the spine is crazy heavy.

View attachment 155315
A nice old saw. Got a nice handle. Bit more rust than the Tyzac but still worth a go. If there is any problem with teeth snapping off then look about for a replacement bit of plate. Quite a few people chop up modern hardpoint saws for that.
Regards
John
 
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