Walnut Bracket Clock - WIP

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Dodge

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As asked by Marcros in my Burr Oak topped table WIP here is the WIP for the Walnut Bracket Clock I made last August for client to present to his father on his 70th Birthday. Over the years I have made several clocks like this and in various different timbers but this one was commissioned in European Walnut to tie in with other furniture that the clients father owned.

Anyway, quite unusually I actually start making these clocks with the front arch topped door and also the frame upon which the clock dial will be mounted.

Having looked at my stock of timber I had a suitable board or two that actually had a fault in the centre which was where there was an open dead knot



Although traditionally the dead knot section would be cut out and discarded it is ideal for a project like this as the grain follows around the knot hole and can be used to follow around the arch of the clock door



A basic template from the top of the dial was made to align with the grain before marking out the best position



With this section marked the main components for the door frame were cut before being jointed -



The curved top section was then bridle jointed into the side stiles



and the bottom of the side stiles mitred to the bottom rail



The door was then cramped up and left to dry



Once dry and the door frame was cleaned up and the rear rebated with a bearing guided cutter to provide the necessary rebate for the glass, the section around the step in the top rail cut back by hand making it easier to cut the glass when fitted later.



With the door now complete the inner frame was made in a similar manner but using half lap joints at the corners





The frame was glued up and once dry cleaned up and put aside for later use.



The main carcase box of the clock can now be addressed and a single board was deep sawn on the bandsaw to give a pair of book-matched pieces to use for the sides of the clock



The sides were cut to length and the top and bottom pieces also made - The sides had a housing cut on the inner face at either end, and the corresponding tongues were cut onto the ends of the top and bottom sections, before assembly a groove was routed around the inner faces to accept the frame already made to accept the clock dial in due course.

An arch topped aperture was cut into one of the sides which in due course would be fitted with a brass sound fret. this was simply cut using the fret saw.

The carcase was then glued up, the inner frame helping to keep the whole assembly square - Once glued up it was left to dry



Once the carcase was dry it was removed from the cramps, and after cleaning up with a sharp block plane the door was offered up to ensure the fit was right, the door wanting to surface mount on the front oc the carcase box.

 
Having made the main carcase and front door it was time to make the plynth and foot section, initially a rectangular frame was made to sit under the carcase box, simply mitred at the corners. A duplicate of this was made to sit on the top of the carcase box, once dry these were simply moulded with a classic ogee cutter on the router table



before simply gluing them to the top and bottom accordingly



The feet of the clock case are an extension of the lower frame and having cut and mitred four pieces of timber a cardboard template of the lower shaping was made and transferred to the timber



Before cutting them on the fretsaw





The corners were then glued and mounted onto the moulded frame which will in due course be fitted to the base of the clock case, small re-inforcing blocks were glued into the corners for additional strength.





The lower section of the clock case was then complete



With the bottom done attention was turned to the head of the clock, I have always called this type of head a "Monument Top" as it resembles a stone monument seen in churchyards.

Initially a mitre cornered box was made and a solid top duly glued to it - this was then offered up to the top of the clock to ensure the proportions were correct



The sides were then routed with believe it or not a handrail cutter on the router table to draw in the sides



Before the application of a roundover to the top



An ebony top plate with a split turned spindle was applied to the top for detail rather than the application of a traditional brass handle as discussed and agreed with the client



All that was left was to make the rear door and also to finish the sound fret on the side of the case. The sound fret was finished by carefully cutting and moulding a frame in walnut that was glued into the aperture to form a rebate internally onto which the brass fret would be attached - A small ebony cill was also fitted to give an additional bit of detailing



The rear door was traditionally made with fine mortice and tenon joints



The side stiles and rails duly grooved to accept a pair of stepped panels - again the panels were book matched for the aesthetic look and pleasing appearance in the finished door





One final touch was that I had been asked to apply the future owners initials into the bottom rail of the door, these were simply carved in as requested



The doors were fitted with small solid drawn brass but hinges and before commencing the finishing process all the surfaces were carefully sanded or scraped before the application of a walnut coloured stain to bring all the colours together as there was some variation in the European Walnut



I must admit I strongly dislike staining timber, preferring to leave it completely natural but when matching with other furniture sometimes needs must!
 
Once the stain was dry, it was rubbed with webrax before being sprayed with a couple of coats of gloss pre-cat lacquer







While the lacquer was curing I turned a couple of simple small ebony knobs for the doors



The clock case and doors were then carefully de-nibbed and waxed to not only lose the garish gloss shine from the lacquerbut to impart a very deep natural glossy shine to the wood, the glass was obtained from my local glazier and fitted along with the chiming movement and dial that i had sourced and bought from Martin Dunn at the Clock gallery in Lincolnshire.













To finish it off a simple corner shelf was made for the client to enable the clock to be mounted on the wall, the lower edge of the shelf shaped to match the foot of the clock and a small drawer fitted to keep the winding key safe





I hope you like this WIP, it was a bit of a challenge to get the clock made as I actually had a gentleman in my workshop for a weeks one to one training and this was exactly what he wished to make also so his was a duplicate and worked quite well as he was able to mimic and reproduce the same as I was doing so was a good learning experience for him.

Started on the Monday morning and delivered to the client complete on the Friday afternoon - all in all a good weeks work!
 
Wow, that is a lovely thing and the shelf and drawer are a great addition.

Thank you for sharing it.
 
As said the matched shelf and drawer make it even more special. A very nice piece, but made to seem so simple in the WIP.
 
Brilliant, thank you so much. This is definitely on my list for this year so I will keep an eye open for a suitably nice piece of timber.

Quantity wise, how much would you expect to use on the clock?

I presume that it would be wise to buy the dial and movement first to give the sizes?
 
Thanks Dodge for that WIP, and again a really professional and super piece.

Something I always had in mind to do one day myself but I think I have now left it too late.
 
Yes Marcros, I would source the movement and dial before you commence construction to marry the components - as for timber - this could have been made with the wood suggested for my board challenge that nobody finished!
 
Hi Roger,

Woodmonkey":3poztxcq said:
Great work, I love the way the grain follows the curve, very clever.

+ 1. That is one beautiful clock, I'm sure your customer was very happy.

Thank you for taking the time to produce the wip.

Neil
 
Stunning quality again!
Thanks for taking all the photos and writing it up - it's such a helpful resource for anyone hoping to make one. There are so many extra lessons in there - including correct selection and orientation of timber for the best grain pattern and how to apply a durable finish which looks horrible when incomplete but then looks lovely!
 
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