Walk-in wardrobe

[HOJ]

Quick question, are you showing skirting behind the side panel?

sort of hinge would be best for an inward opening hidden door

I would think you are limited to a butt hinge type option, but you'll have to sort the hinge knuckle interference issue against the side panels in that case.

 

[XTiffy]

Not sure I understand your question. A straight edge screwed to the floor offset by what ever distance, to centre on where the fixed panel will sit. Say a 6mm bit for a 18mm panel. The loose tenon would be glued into this which the groove in the panel would slide over. I would run the groove in the panel starting say 25mm from the front all the way through, then the panel can be rested on the floor an lid into position. Hinges: look on the Hafele website under hinges as they show all technical information and drawings to aid selection.

 

[XTiffy]

Mjward,
There are plenty of hinges that would meet your requirement. Which is essentially a fold back door. I will illustrate one below. This will actually fold through 180 degrees and therefore the door will need restraining stops, perhaps a rebated top rail?
I still can't see what your problem is on routing. Your photo shows a router being used in exactly the way I envisage. The plastic base will run against a fixed straight edge and cut a groove.

 

[Mjward]

I was being daft on the router...I just kept thinking of the biscuit router bit I have and thinking how on earth would I turn that to hit the floor...but obviously for the floor cut I would just be using a straight bit the width of the biscuit etc

Given I will be ordering more 20mm redwood for the faceframes I am thinking to construct the rails/stiles out of this to give me a bit more flexibility when it comes to hinge placement (given MDF isn't great on it's ends should I end up needing to attach there).

I've got an internal opening door in my house now, with a butt hinge that seems to serve as a natural stop although its positioning in this way only seems to work if the door is set back vs being flush with the front of the unit if that makes sense

 

[Mjward]

I'm thinking if I go down the redwood instead of MDF route, I can place a butt hinge like below which would theoretically act as an auto stop as well?

 

[XTiffy]

I understand but applying timber edge is adding to your work. Using some kind of flush hinge takes the screws across the "grain" of the MDF. If you are using moisture resistant MDF there is on problem sealing the "end grain".

 

[Mjward]

Forgot to add these pics earlier of the little gadget for the dressing room. It's a wireless charger but when the Mrs needs to plug in hairdryer etc it's got multiple sockets plus 2x USB ports. An upgrade from watching her bang her head a 100 times reaching under the table to plug/unplug hairdryers, curlers, straighteners etc!

 

[XTiffy]

Kindred spirit, gadget lover!

 

[Mjward]

Kindred spirit, gadget lover!

Given the fortune we all spend on woodworking gadgets ...sorry I mean tools!!

 

[Mjward]

Whilst I wait for wood delivery to make the next carcases thought I'd have a crack at making my first door (using a very helpful video from Peter Millard)

Very easy overall although cutting the grooves with freeheld palm router + clamp didn't feel great. Can really see benefit of a router table but after recent purchases I need to source one as cheaply as possible

 

[Mjward]

Looking for some advice here .... I am building wardrobes on either side of a fireplace. The left hand unit will be fairly close to a bedside light, 1105mm from the wall at the back of the wardrobe to be precise. The alcove widths are 1170mm (LHS) and 1125mm (RHS).

If I was to make the wardrobes a standard 600mm depth and use the full width of the alcove for the doors (1170 divide by 2, then minus 18mm for carcass width gets you to 567mm), the door fully opened would hit the bedside light (1167mm vs 1105mm).

There are two variables at play, wardrobe depth & width. What would be the better option?

1) Full depth but make unit narrower, say 1000mm wide to get to a door of 482mm i.e. 1082mm from back wall vs bedside light at 1105mm
2) Full width but make unit shallower, say 520mm depth and full width door 567mm to get to 1087mm vs bedside light at 1105mm
3) Combination of the two, say 550mm depth, 1100mm wide to get to a door of 532mm so total 1082mm vs bedside light at 1105mm

I slightly reluctant to mess around with the depth as my research says a 600mm wardrobe is ideal but just wondering in real world will 520/550mm be ok etc.

Assuming I will have to pick an option that at least includes making the unit narrower so the door swing doesn't hit the bedside light, is it better to centre the carcass and have infill panels left & right or maximise wardrobe space and shift carcass off and just infill to the left? I'm guessing aesthetically have it centered. There are no hindrances to the wardrobe on the right of the fireplace but I would look to make them match.

 

[XTiffy]

I would go for shallower. I have an oak wardrobe that is 550 overaall depth and have suits and coats in there without trouble. There are also slide-out hanging rails that allow clothes to sit from front to back. As I often said Hafele are my go-to supplier, mainly because of their excellent technical drawings for each item, which is a great help in woking out the details.

 

[Mjward]

Ah that's good to know as think it would look better that way rather than chunky wide panels on each end. I'm fairly new to Hafele brand but liking them too. Use Hafele levelling feet for the plinths, then once level add a few 18mm blocks pocket hole screw into floor, and horizontal screw into plinth and I'm happy they aren't moving anywhere.

When you cut the groove in the rail/stile for the door panel to slot into, is there a targeted surplus? In the mock up I used 9mm panel and a 3/8" cutter (I think works out to 9.5mm) and that's seems to be an overly generous gap, or is that the plan to get enough glue in there?

After making first mock up with palm held router, going to try second attempt with table saw where I'd be able to get the cut closer to 9mm.

 

[XTiffy]

MJ, No, a snug fit is usual panel products can vary in size. I rarely used 9mm, favouring 6mm material, which is stiff enough unless huge door!. I also have router cutters sets that mould the frame and cut a 6mm slot. (Rail & Style (Profile & Scribe) Router Cutter Door Sets) These have the advantage of a larger gluing surface where stile and rail meet.

 

[Mjward]

Moulding and cutting in one set sounds great. Not sure if it's my phone playing up but I can't click on your product link. 6mm definitely seems popular, I've just opted for 9mm in this instance due to the full height of the doors but definitely cabinets etc will all be in 6mm

 

[Mjward]

Ha...the great adage "measure twice.." etc. Went back to check my measurements and I had taken the depth from where the wall light bracket is on the wall.... but I should have taken it from outside edge of lamp shade... I have 1060mm max depth to play with. Think as discussed will look at a depth & width combo, going for 550mm carcass depth and 12mm back panel, gets me to max 498mm wide doors + 87mm panels on each end which I think will look fine but can always tweak it to a 540mm carcass etc etc.

 

[Mjward]

Think I've found a few like you're referring to. Didn't even know this part existed, very interesting. I'm thinking as I'm just slotting in 9mm MDF sheets for the "panel" part of the doors I only need a profile cutter (and not a scribe cutter) but one where the groove matches the 9mm MDF (although theoretically could shave off 2.5mm around the edges to fit the below.

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Classical_Door_Cutters_190.html

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

Forgot to add these pics earlier of the little gadget for the dressing room. It's a wireless charger but when the Mrs needs to plug in hairdryer etc it's got multiple sockets plus 2x USB ports. An upgrade from watching her bang her head a 100 times reaching under the table to plug/unplug hairdryers, curlers, straightenersView attachment 152011

Excellent charger, can you tell me where you purchased or the product name please?

 

[Mjward]

Excellent charger, can you tell me where you purchased or the product name please?

Was just an Amazon job. Most others online seemed to be the tall 4x 240v socket towers for kitchens and the only short ones I could find didn't offer the wireless charger. I've had a play with it and all works as expected, charges through thick Spigen phone case etc