Wadkin RBD planer

[guineafowl21]

Would these do?

https://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/mac ... e-1710-527

 

[Vann]

Yes, the machine on the right has a handle sticking up from the fence, and doesn’t appear to have a motor...

Flat belt (lineshaft) drive was an option on earlier RB planers.

...Re knives, what rough dimensions am I looking for? The cutterhead is about 9 1/4” wide. I can measure the pitch of the slots from the adjusters...

If you opt to go without slots then 30mm wide is what you'll want. But remember, this design is what the Yanks call a 'clamshell' head = dangerous. The slots make it much less dangerous by preventing the knifes from flying out should the clamping pressure fail.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Vann]

Would these do?

Yup, that's exactly what I bought for mine. Same packet (2 per packet - but that advert states price per knife, not per pair) but I paid 29.55 UKP per pair.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Vann]

I believe the RB was first manufactured in 1926, as a replacement for the 9" Wadkin RC (which also came in 12", 16" and 22" versions), and was itself replaced by the Wadkin RV in 1954 or 1955. Approximately 920 RBs were manufactured during that period (as RB, RBA, RBD and RBV). The RV didn't last long as it was soon replaced by a Wadkin-Bursgreen machine.

The RB didn't show in catalogues until late 1928 - I assume they were still selling old stock of the RC up to then, as catalogues up to early 1928 still showed the 9" RC.

Here's a pikkie of an early RB from a 1928 catalogue.

And here's a pikkie of one at the Ferrymead Heritage Park in Christchurch, New Zealand - taken last year.

It's RB 113 - believed to be the 9th RB made, and the oldest known survivor. It is one of 12 sold to New Zealand Railways in 1926.

These early RBs had short tables 3' 9" (vrs 5' on later RBs), 1.5hp motors (vrs 2hp on later models) and no stand - being sold as 'bench' planers.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[guineafowl21]

The knives arrived today - good service from advancedmachinery.co.uk. =D>

Fitted them, and made some test cuts. It’s taking out twist very well, to the extent the finished piece of wood has some ‘suction’ to the outfeed table.

(hammer)

 

[Fitzroy]

I have a Wadkin 9BFT, and I know I have it dialled in and my technique correct when I get that suction feeling on the out table.

F.

 

[guineafowl21]

The tables are raised and lowered by a handwheel acting on two threaded lugs. Either side of each lug, there are square-headed bolts with locknuts - what are these for? Can they be used to take out backlash, or should I leave them alone?

Everyone loves my old Wadkin. One person asked how much it would have cost at the time - any idea?

 

[Vann]

The tables are raised and lowered by a handwheel acting on two threaded lugs. Either side of each lug, there are square-headed bolts with locknuts - what are these for? Can they be used to take out backlash, or should I leave them alone?...

The business end of each square head bolt should be pointed - and fits into a countersink in the gimble. Back off the locknut and adjust the bolt so that there is no play (backlash), but not so tight as to prevent the gimble from rotating freely (best done without the handwheel shaft through the gimble). I put a touch of grease into the countersink first - but you may not want to do that in case it attracts too much dust.

If the table movement gets tight as the two gimble castings get close then it's possible they are out of alignment causing the handwheel shaft to bind. In this case you can use the two square head bolts to move one gimble forward or backward to give better alignment.

Repeat with the other table.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Vann]

...One person asked how much it would have cost at the time - any idea?

My RB is an early one, from the same batch as the one I posted previously. Mine is RB 116.

I did a lot of research into mine and at Archives NZ found a file regarding a large amount of machinery purchased during the late 1920s by New Zealand Railways. A 17 page document dated 17th September, 1930, summarises all new machinery supplied. On page 10 I found the twelve RB surface planers ordered and manufactured in 1926.

Included is that the 12 Bench Planers - High Speed were shipped as follows:
- 3 to Auckland (nearest port to Otahuhu workshops) – value £176 6s 9d;
- 3 to Wellington (nearest port to Hutt workshops) – value £176 6s 9d;
- 3 to Lyttleton (nearest port to Addington workshops) – value £176 6s 5d;
- 3 to Port Chalmers (nearest port to Hillside workshops) – value £176 6s 5d.
an average value of £58 15s 6d each.

However I would guess that New Zealand Railways got these at a good price, as it was a new model (I believe these twelve were among the first fifteen produced); they were buying a quantity; and these used less materials than yours - having no stand, shorter tables; and a smaller motor. I'd suggest your one was probably roughly double that cost in 1932.

Other factors are that those prices included shipping, and are in New Zealand pounds.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[guineafowl21]

Thanks (and for advice above). Say £120 then, which apparently works out just over £8,000 today.

 

[guineafowl21]

I changed my mind and reconfigured to 400V three phase operation. It cost a little bit more for the extra distribution board and breakers, but now I have a three phase socket for other machines.

It ran nicely on the cheapo VFD I have, but because of the heavy rotating mass it took a while to spin up. The VFD would sometimes trip with overcurrent error, although this could be altered in the settings.

I can feel some vibration in the floor while it’s running - is this normal, or should I look for where it’s coming from?

Also, a point raised by a local woodworker:

Should Wadkin rhyme with oddbin, or admin?

 

[Trevanion]

Are the knives in true balance and set properly in the cutterblock?

 

[Vann]

...Also, a point raised by a local woodworker:

Should Wadkin rhyme with oddbin, or admin?

'Wad', as in they cost a wad of cash. 'Kin', as they are so well built they'll outlast you and get passed on to your kin.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Vann]

...I can feel some vibration in the floor while it’s running - is this normal, or should I look for where it’s coming from?...

If it's on a wooden floor you might feel some vibration, however it doesn't sound right.

I'd suggest either bearings are bad or the cutterblock is out of balance.

Regarding the cutterblock, each shell is stamped with a number and must go back on the face of the cutterblock with the same number. They were balanced at the factory (note the drill marks in the flat face of each shell).

The knives must each weigh the same (can't remember the tolerance).

The cutterblock nuts must weigh the same. At least, each opposing pair must be within 0.2 grams of each other - IIRC.

Similarly, the cutterblock studs must weigh the same.

So start by checking the bearings and shells. Then work your way through the knives and nuts. Only tackle the studs if it still vibrates significantly after you've checked the rest.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[guineafowl21]

Are the knives in true balance and set properly in the cutterblock?

They’re brand new, so I didn’t check the weights. I set them so they both advance a piece of wood 3mm.

 

[guineafowl21]

...Also, a point raised by a local woodworker:

Should Wadkin rhyme with oddbin, or admin?

'Wad', as in they cost a wad of cash. 'Kin', as they are so well built they'll outlast you and get passed on to your kin.

Cheers, Vann.

That’s what I thought. I was saying ‘wodkin’, but this chap is saying ‘waddkin’.

 

[guineafowl21]

...I can feel some vibration in the floor while it’s running - is this normal, or should I look for where it’s coming from?...

If it's on a wooden floor you might feel some vibration, however it doesn't sound right.

I'd suggest either bearings are bad or the cutterblock is out of balance.

Regarding the cutterblock, each shell is stamped with a number and must go back on the face of the cutterblock with the same number. They were balanced at the factory (note the drill marks in the flat face of each shell).

The knives must each weigh the same (can't remember the tolerance).

The cutterblock nuts must weigh the same. At least, each opposing pair must be within 0.2 grams of each other - IIRC.

Similarly, the cutterblock studs must weigh the same.

So start by checking the bearings and shells. Then work your way through the knives and nuts. Only tackle the studs if it still vibrates significantly after you've checked the rest.

Cheers, Vann.

It’s quite a subtle vibration through a concrete floor, but not enough to make the machine walk around. I’ll check as you suggest, and maybe have a listen with a screwdriver to the ear.

When I got it, the pulleys were out of line, so that’s been sorted with straightedge.

 

[guineafowl21]

...Also, a point raised by a local woodworker:

Should Wadkin rhyme with oddbin, or admin?

'Wad', as in they cost a wad of cash. 'Kin', as they are so well built they'll outlast you and get passed on to your kin.

Cheers, Vann.

Just realised I’m asking a Kiwi how to pronounce vowels...

 

[guineafowl21]

Another thought on the vibration - I might have overgreased the bearings

Someone had helpfully painted over the grease nipples, and my chainsaw greaser wouldn’t work, so I took each nipple out and managed to push grease in, bit by bit.

Started it up, and there was noticeable friction, and grease oozing out of the sides. I then took out the nipples and ran the motor at low speed for a good while and several times, letting the bearings cool down in between.

I’ve used the machine quite a few times since, and there’s no more ooze.

The belts are flapping quite a lot on the non-drive part of the run, which could certainly produce the vibration. They seem tight enough, and should be aligned. Perhaps they’re just plain worn out from running misaligned for so long?