Wadkin AGS 10

[MusicMan]

+1 to Sam. And remember that the arbor nut is a LEFT hand thread, or it will take you a very long time! Don't lose the nut as it is hard to replace... 5/8" 11 tpi square thread on mine.

Can you post a pic of the blade and riving knife assembly? There are two models of this saw. Mine is the older, where the riving knife tilts with the bald but does not rise and fall. I think the body is all cast, rather than sheet metal. Yours may be the same. SammyQ, I think yours may be the later one? There are instructions for both versions on the Wadkin Library. I have copies if you have problems finding them.

Keith

 

[ola c]

Here are some pics om my ags 10 dust hood (scroll down past the text) https://www.byggahus.se/forum/verktyg-m ... verad.html

The major openings on the front and rear are covered with magnetic sheet (the black thing you see around the opening in the front). Between cabinet and top I have put pipe foam, cut out for the ribs in the top.

Sorry it's all in swedish, if you have specific questions let me know and I will try to answer.

....also made a modern type of riving knife mechanism that might be of interest, my saw had the old style where the knife doesn't follow the blade movement. Can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUI6F84a-pg

 

[memzey]

That's great Ola! Can you explain a little more about how you made the riving knife conversion please? My saw is similar and I would love a proper riving knife but haven't figured out how to do it.

 

[SteveF]

I will grab some pics when I get a chance
sadly I have a bigger issue to deal with, that will tach me to research harder first
my motor turns out to be a 380v \ 415v...no 240
so from what I can read I will not get an inverter for it
so I have the choice of get rid and find another
or attempt to find everything needed for 240v motor conversion
the 2nd option i think will be quite a challenge

Steve

 

[katellwood]

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/

New motors, taper lock bushes and triple belt pulleys (or have your existing pulley bored out to suit a new motor)

you just have to drill the mounting plate to suit the new motor

 

[SteveF]

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/

New motors, taper lock bushes and triple belt pulleys (or have your existing pulley bored out to suit a new motor)

you just have to drill the mounting plate to suit the new motor

the motor I think is easy as long as has a foot and enough grunt
the plate I think I could manage..just
its the damn pulley, I did try to find a local machine shop
trying to match a new one up to be equivalent to the arbour is a minefield
and all the different types of belts
meltdown time

Steve

 

[ola c]

That's great Ola! Can you explain a little more about how you made the riving knife conversion please? My saw is similar and I would love a proper riving knife but haven't figured out how to do it.

Explaining the entire procedure would require it's own thread and a lot of instructions from me...and I don't remember all of it.

Basically I copied this concept http://thewoodenscrew.blogspot.se/2011/ ... -done.html but with a few tweaks to fit the AGS 10 saw. 3 parts (the ones involved in the rotation) in my construction were done using CNC since they need to be very accurate.

If you have any way to read 3D files I can send the entire assembly, that should explain most of it. Think twice before you modify, it takes a lot of effort and you need to turn (? I mean using metal lathe) a few parts to tweak were the saw blade ends up in axial direction. You also need to remove some material from the saw cast iron body itself and thread screws directly into the arbour hosuing. For me it was a +100 hour modification, but with the 3D files from me it's maybe 20-30 hours.

 

[Fitzroy]

I will grab some pics when I get a chance
sadly I have a bigger issue to deal with, that will tach me to research harder first
my motor turns out to be a 380v \ 415v...no 240
so from what I can read I will not get an inverter for it
so I have the choice of get rid and find another
or attempt to find everything needed for 240v motor conversion
the 2nd option i think will be quite a challenge

Steve

Steve,

I bought a Wadkin 9BFT planer and found the exact same issue. I opened the motor up, found the 'star point', opened it up and soldered a new wire to each lead and brought these new connections to the outside of the motor. I could then change the motor from 'star' to 'delta' this changes it from needing 415v to 240v. I could then run it from an inverter from ebay. It sounds daunting but really wasn't that difficult.

F.

 

[SammyQ]

Seconded to Fitzroy on adapting the motor to 240. Time and patience are all you need.

I am hoping to get some workshop time on Saturday, will post some pikkies after that of riving knife etc. May even run to a video... :shock: :shock:

Sam

 

[SammyQ]

Ola has it bang on for dust extraction. Just copy his hole blocking and motor shroud. You have the option of boring three elongated holes in it to aid motor cooling and to establish a gas path for dust extraction.

S.

 

[SteveF]

I have a resolve for the motor issue
a very helpful man from this parish is on the case
please note this motor is 380\420 so the 240v internal wiring was not an option
all under control and I can hopefully move forward
such a great community this forum
the dust extraction that Ola posted looks a great option
Steve

 

[SteveF]

I noticed Ola had 4 belts
I think mine should have 3 looking at the pulley
I only got 2, is that enough?
where do you buy them from?
does anyone have a length\ profile info? even better a link
and should I replace existing 2 so they all start same length?

Steve

 

[SammyQ]

Steve, I have replaced my pulleys at both motor and arbour. I used Rotary Bearings* local depot and they calculated belt length for me when I emailed them the distance between saw arbour centre and motor spindle centre. They have software which takes into account the new pulley size - which they also provided. Nice bushes, tightened by allen key and matching pulleys. Made disassembly a doodle when I got orientation wrong initially.

I would definitely get matching length belts!!

Sam

* Bearing Boys would be a good alternative.

 

[SteveF]

thankis Sam

i no longer need to change motor or pulleys
I am having a beast of inverter built for me
cant really explain what it is
i am ok with electricity but not electronic trickery

Steve

 

[Myfordman]

thankis Sam

i no longer need to change motor or pulleys
I am having a beast of inverter built for me
cant really explain what it is
i am ok with electricity but not electronic trickery

Steve

Yes I am busy looking through my book of spells right now and waiting for a full moon for optimum results with Steve's inverter.

:lol: :lol:

 

[SteveF]

hopefully just a few spells and no voodoo dolls :_)

Steve

 

[Fitzroy]

Steve,

This is the motor plate from the motor on my Wadkin, as you can see it says 380/420v so i think I was in the same predicament as you.

A motor has a number of coils inside that result in a rotating field that drives the motor round. The simplest 3 phase motor has 3 coils, one for each phase and this results in a 2 pole motor rotating at c. 3000rpm, you could have 2 coils per phase etc.

The drawing below shows a representation of the three coils in a 2 pole motor, each coil has two ends and there will be a voltage (potential difference) required across each coil. In this case each coil requires 220V. The coils can be connected together in two ways, 'star' (can be called 'Y') and 'delta'.
- In star mode the coils are all connected to a common point, the star point, this results in the power feed connecting across 2 coils and requiring 440V.
- In delta mode the coils are connected in a continuos fashion, this results in the power feed connecting across 1 coil and requiring 220V.

A motor that states only 400V on the motor plate is either a 200/400v star connected motor, or a 400/800v delta connected motor. The driver to higher voltages is that you require less amps for the same power, having an 800v motor option is very unlikely on a light duty motor.

Some motors have all the ends of the coils, 6 connections, coming out the motor into a connection box on the outside of the motor. In this case the motor will have two voltages stated on the motor plate, and by opening the connection box you can wire it to either star or delta.

On my Wadkin motor the star point was inside the motor and the connections (2,4, and 6) were twisted/soldered together inside an insulating sleeve. It was possible to open the motor, find this point, break the connection, solder new wires onto connections 2, 4, and 6, and bring these wires outside the motor so it could be rewired to delta and hence only require 220V and a cheapo inverter off fleabay.

Sharing this in as much as i found it interesting to learn this stuff, and also as I'm always keen to see where my understanding is wrong so I can learn more.

Regards

Fitz.

 

[ola c]

I noticed Ola had 4 belts
I think mine should have 3 looking at the pulley
I only got 2, is that enough?
where do you buy them from?
does anyone have a length\ profile info? even better a link
and should I replace existing 2 so they all start same length?
Steve

How did you notice that, there's none of my pics showing the belts :shock: anyway, I have 3 belts which is standard for this saw. Previous owner ran it on 2 which also seemed to work.

 

[Myfordman]

hopefully just a few spells and no voodoo dolls :_)

Steve

No voodoo dolls used here. I used to sacrifice a couple of virgins but these days they are sooo rare I had to stop that and rely on science & technology instead.

 

[SteveF]

I noticed Ola had 4 belts
I think mine should have 3 looking at the pulley
I only got 2, is that enough?
where do you buy them from?
does anyone have a length\ profile info? even better a link
and should I replace existing 2 so they all start same length?
Steve

How did you notice that, there's none of my pics showing the belts :shock: anyway, I have 3 belts which is standard for this saw. Previous owner ran it on 2 which also seemed to work.

sorry it was on a link you posted

http://thewoodenscrew.blogspot.se/2011/ ... -done.html

i would like to fit all 3 if possible
I am not one for fixing stuff once in use
but happy to get things right in the first place
so if that means buying 3 new belts now it is my prefferred option
so a link from an owner would be great


Steve