Wadkin AGS 10" vs 12"

[MusicMan]

I think that a number of people have made DIY side/outfeed extensions. One way is to use ply but have it covered with stainless steel by a specialist firm (used for kitchens etc).

It's not too important what the size of the canting wheel is as long as it works. The parts illustration in the manual should indicate scale anyway.

Yes, start by taking the table top off (four screws at the corners, hard to access but possible). Then you can access the innards. Have somewhere of similar height to slide the table onto before lifting it!

Study the manual assembly drawing first and while you strip it. Take photos as you go so you can put it back the same way, and so you can post your WIP here!

 

[Lamb]

Hi SammyQ, thanks for the lead to Farmer Giles regarding potential AGS spares. I got in touch, but unfortunately Farmer Giles never really had any spares available. With regard to the "Pelican" guard, what does it look like?

Going back to something deema mentioned earlier concerning the differentiation between the 10" and 12" saws - the 12" having t slots rather than straight sided ones...is there a practical difference to this? Or more importantly, is there a negative difference?

I will continue my journey!!

Thanks again all!
Lamb

 

[deema]

You will need imperial Allen keys, pin punches, a decent 3 or 2 leg puller, imperial spanner’s, copper headed hammer, possibly a 3/4” hand reamer, possibly Whiteworth taps and dies and ideally access to a lathe.
Download a copy of the manual from the Wadkin libruary on line (Daltons) or buy a manual from Scott Sergeant (£5). Take lots of pictures of everything from every angle as you take it apart. It needs two people to lift off the top!

 

[SammyQ]

I'll try to put up a photo of conventional AGS hood vs Pelican tomorrow for you.

Sam

 

[Lamb]

Hi deema,
Thanks for the advice. To be fair we'd actually have most of those items here, we are farming, so have a fairly well equipped set of tools for machinery repair and maintenance.
What is the access to the lathe for?

Have a teleporter for the heavy lifting!!

Thanks again,
Lamb

 

[deema]

If your taking it apart two components often need turning. The first is the shaft that tilts the blade. The worm gear is often so corroded on that you end up needing to make a new shaft after getting it off. Id replace the bronze bushes it runs in as well with Oilite units as they are probably badly worn. Usually a rattling good fit
Assuming your taking the Spindle out, I check the runout of the flange against the bearing journals and often as not a quick facing cut results in trueing it back up to have zero run out. They are often damaged, have an edge dented due to a frustrated user!
The last component you can buy or make, and that’s the micro adjust assembly. 99% of the time they are worn / damaged and don’t / partially lock into the rack on the rail.
I started a thread a few months back after I bought a mill on making them where I received a huge amount of help and info on the pressure angle etc of the cog. There not difficult and fun to make with a lathe mill and dividing head.

if the hook on the back of the fence is broken (usually from being dropped as it’s only cast iron) don’t use the saw until you have replaced it. The fence is locked at both ends and needs the entire hook to lock properly.

As a hobby I like restoring old iron. I have two Wadkin AGS10 and two Startrite saws (DS175 & TS275) that I will be restoring and converting to single phase. I usually swap the motors for industrial separate cap start and cap run single phase units.
I recently finished a AGS12 that a fellow member of the forum now has.

 

[Krysstel]

Here's my resto from 2 years ago. I just dived in and unbolted/unscrewed everything until the whole saw was reduced to a pile of bits. I really had no idea what I was doing but it wasn't that difficult and I got loads of great help from the knowledgeable Wadkin experts on this forum. If I give you one piece of advice from my experiences it would be take pictures of everything, from all angles. Mine proved invaluable during reassembly.

Good luck !

Mark

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/wadkin-ags10-restoration.111852/

 

[Lamb]

Hi Krysstel,
Many thanks for the link! I have no doubt I will be in contact with you for advice!

Regards,
Lamb

 

[julianf]

I think my ags10 sale may be in the process of falling through.

The saw is "challenged" (missing the rear fence rail, cracked fence casting, and additional extraction port cut in lower section). It's also 3ph.

I had arranged a price of £325 with the buyer, but I've not heard from him for a couple of weeks now and am starting to loose hope.

£325 is way more than you would want to spend for an extension table and some wheels though.

 

[Lamb]

Hi julianf,

Could you send me some photos of the saw through PM/conversation and maybe we could come to a deal?

Thanks,
Lamb

 

[SammyQ]

Lamb, here are two blade covers, one AGS standard issue, the other I thought was 'pelican', but it isn't, because it's straight on top. True pelican has a wavy top.

HTH, Sam

 

[Lamb]

Hi Sammy,
Thanks for the clarification. So other than the physical difference between both blade covers. Does one offer much benefit over the other? What would be the street value of these?
Thanks,
Lamb

 

[SammyQ]

Street value? 'Yer Man' on ebuygum wants 50 nicker for his cannibalised hood. I was lucky as Gremmy on here had one and 'a mate's rates' price was asked. MANY grateful thanks to "the other Sam" - he knows what I mean by that! I will pass on the favour on this one.
As to usage, I suspect the true Pelican type is to accommodate the extra 2" of blade diameter? 'Dunno Guv, I's just t'ick'...The one I've shown is off a Sedgewick perhaps, or summat of that ilk? Same idea, 12" blade was wot I thot... Whatever its origin, its a heavy duty number, nice thick walls, gives you confidence it would stand up to being chewed by a blade and give you time to shut things down in a 'brown trouser' moment.
It's up for grabs, though living just north of NuuKassel (Covid Central) and shielding a very vulnerable SWIMBO, it would have to be courier collected; I can't go out to Snail Mail's nearest outlet. PM - sorry, "conversation" - me if you think you can use it.
Sam

 

[Trevanion]

I THINK, one guard (the flatter of the two) would be used on a saw with a riving knife that raises and lowers with the blade, the large guard would be used on a riving knife that's fixed in place independently of the saw blade (Or even on a machine without a blade height adjustment) and would need to be adjusted to suit the size of the workpiece.

 

[MusicMan]

What Trevanion suggests is possible. My old-style AGS10 with fixed riving knife indeed has the larger type shown on the right. The manual for the later one with moving RK also shows a similar round top guard. The still later AGS250-300 manual shows a flat-topped guard rather like the one on the left on the picture, but it also has a dust extractor port. The picture may be from a different saw, or of a home-made guard.

The manuals are on the Wadkin Archive Library.

 

[ScottandSargeant]

The one on the left doesn’t look original Wadkin... the AGS 250/300 and AGSP were cast aluminium with a curved front. ... it looks more like an old Sedgwick guard

 

[SammyQ]

Thanks to the last three posters. The curved 'fat' one does indeed fit on my AGS riving knife.
The Slimcea (ages me donnit?) one was a mistaken buy and is now a "mathom" on a high workshop shelf. Like S&S, I suspected Sedgewick (see above) but reckoned it might be a 'get-you-by' for the O.P. if he was playing with a 12" blade. Offiskal Wadkin blade covers/dust hoods like the R.H. one in the photo are not quite hens' teeth, but veer that way.
Sam