Vice for scroll saw projects

[JangoTrooper]

Hi,

I’m after some help wonder if someone could advise.

Don’t know if other scroll sawyer have this problem.

The problem I have is sanding the face grain of small wood.

I use my scroll saw and carry out intarsia work. Once the patterns are cut and I rough shape the wood and machine sanders, I then go about hand sanding.

I usually use a engineers vice with soft clamps to clamp my wood piece and sand the end grains in particular, then follow my way round.

It’s the face grain of small pieces I have the problem, the wood isn’t square with intricate shapes and curves. I also need to shape the top (face) of the wood to particular shape too. A engineers vice is square and could damage the curve shape or more importantly doesn’t clamp the workpiece well.

I do hold the small workpiece by hand, but is difficult in terms of holding and gives me tendinitis especially.

I also have a carvers vice, which I haven’t used. Reason being carvers use thick wood stock to which a screw or nail could be inserted underneath the project and not seen. Most wood I have is 1/2” to 3/4” thick. With small pieces also a nail or screw could snap the wood.

Does anybody else have this problem? Are there any special jigs, tools that deal with this problem?

Any links to these items?

Hope this makes sense.

 

[loftyhermes]

I would have thought that sanding the face of all your wood before cutting must be better. That's if I understand your problem correctly.

 

[Droogs]

Get yourself an engravers ball vice. very handy and very versitile

cheapos can be got for around 40 bucks on banggood and ebay and amazon etc

 

[scrimper]

Afraid I can't offer any advice on 'sanding' I am hopeless at it and have always detested doing it.

Generally with the stuff I do the use of reverse tooth blades means I only normally need to sand the faces of the work not the edges.

As Lofty says it's always a good idea to sand the faces of the work before cutting as well as after.

 

[akirk]

could you use a sand bag or bean bag arrangement - should allow you to hold the piece solidly regardless of shape?

 

[Blaidd-Drwg]

I use drawer liner for things like this as well as for my sharpening stones, to keep them from moving while I work with them. I've sanded and even planed small things and they don't move around.
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Non-Adhesive-Cabinets/dp/B07773PQG7/ref=sr_1_5?

 

[JangoTrooper]

Some interesting points made.

I did come across this holder in my local Hobbycraft store
Modelcraft Bench Universal Work Holder | Hobbycraft

 

[JangoTrooper]

Afraid I can't offer any advice on 'sanding' I am hopeless at it and have always detested doing it.

Generally with the stuff I do the use of reverse tooth blades means I only normally need to sand the faces of the work not the edges.

As Lofty says it's always a good idea to sand the faces of the work before cutting as well as after.

As much as this could work, you would still have to cut the pieces out and to fit. With intarsia edges have to be shaped to. Not to mention end grain of wood.

This is one of my latest projects completed to date. As can be seen small intricate pieces that get sanded, contoured to shape.

If anyone is interested in the work piece, this is a Kathy Wise pattern form her book. I used Paduak, Ebony, Wenge and Oak. I stained the Oak white.