Veneering...

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woodbloke

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I was doing a little bit of veneering yesterday in the 'shop and it t'were a bit warm so I was up against time:

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...'specially as I had three boards to get into the AirPress bag.

Note to self...pay more attention to detail :oops: :oops: - Rob
 
I'm assuming by the thickness you've cut the veneer yourself Rob.

What thickness is it? Do you dress the face of the board cut a slice of veneer and so on, what blade are you using in your bandsaw and which glue are you using
 
Alan Jones":1fv146x2 said:
I'm assuming by the thickness you've cut the veneer yourself Rob.

What thickness is it? Do you dress the face of the board cut a slice of veneer and so on, what blade are you using in your bandsaw and which glue are you using
The thickness is around two to three mm and I re-plane the face after each slice to provide a datum edge against the bandsaw fence. The blade is one of Axminster's finest...a 3tpi 5/8" skip tooth that my little Euro 260 was just about able to tension. The stock material is 18thou so thinner than usual but it was bit hit and miss. A half inch blade would have been better. The glue I'm using here is TBIII which has proved fine for veneering - Rob
 
I found with my slab press method that when the wet finish was applied some of the veneer rose up. Need to find a better method.

So you stuck it on upside down, classic!
 
Chems":84aagqad said:
So you stuck it on upside down, classic!
Clever init :lol: :lol:

To be fair, I'm not too worried as the veneer is so thick. If it had been the normal commercial .6mm skinny stuff, I'd be a bit more concerned about the tape outline 'telegraphing' through to the topside - Rob
 
Yeah its funny but not a problem. Can you tell me exactly how you used to stick your veneer down before you had a veneer press?
 
Chems":dn3r14qi said:
Yeah its funny but not a problem. Can you tell me exactly how you used to stick your veneer down before you had a veneer press?
Basically Chems, the slab method as you used. Two boards of flat material (melamine faced chipboard is ideal) with series of curved bearer blocks, one above and one below, spaced around every 150mm or so. As the bearer blocks are brought together and straighten out under the cramps, even pressure is applied across the surface as the centre of the bearer block is in contact first of all with the centre of the board...comprendo or need a pic? - Rob
 
Paul Chapman":2eikeazm said:
woodbloke":2eikeazm said:
Chems":2eikeazm said:
So you stuck it on upside down, classic!
Clever init :lol: :lol:

Blimey, Rob, you're having a lot of senior moments recently :shock: What are you going to do when you get to my age :? :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
Start collecting Cliffi's and honing guides :lol: :lol: - Rob
 
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