Upgrades to the woodrat
- Thread starter LyNx
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A
Anonymous
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Vernier scale on cross axis (already posted to forum).
Ruler on longitudenal axis (posted on forum) or possibly a digital readout on longitudenal axis (watch this space)
Both of these allow a different, more accurate, working method that I am more comfortable with. I do not like the recommended methods using blu tack and pencil lines + test cuts in measuring sticks of bits of perspex etc.
Router collet extension as recommended by Chris Knight
Not a mod, but different working practices for DTs. I will post my approach when I get photos off camera.
I love the Rat and am glad to have finally bought one.
Ruler on longitudenal axis (posted on forum) or possibly a digital readout on longitudenal axis (watch this space)
Both of these allow a different, more accurate, working method that I am more comfortable with. I do not like the recommended methods using blu tack and pencil lines + test cuts in measuring sticks of bits of perspex etc.
Router collet extension as recommended by Chris Knight
Not a mod, but different working practices for DTs. I will post my approach when I get photos off camera.
I love the Rat and am glad to have finally bought one.
woodbloke
Established Member
lyNx wrote:
At the risk of upsetting some folks, I haven't got one and have no intention of buying one. It would be of interest to know if the Peters or Barnsley workshops ever used one. :-k :-k. Probably not methinks - Rob
At the risk of upsetting some folks, I haven't got one and have no intention of buying one. It would be of interest to know if the Peters or Barnsley workshops ever used one. :-k :-k. Probably not methinks - Rob
woodbloke":3bc55ria said:
I'm not upset :lol: but I find your reasoning odd - they didn't have TCT blades, dovetail jigs, modern glues, vacuum veneer presses, routers, biscuit jointers, laser marquetry, internet sales channels etc then either*. But if they were around at the time, would they be using them? I think it would be yes. Perhaps not in their production environment, as maybe the 'rat isn't suited to that but maybe in their design department, or R&D - for one off mockups and unusual items, then yes.
Adam
*OK, maybe this list isn't particularly accurate, but you know what i mean!
woodbloke
Established Member
Adam - Alan Peters has only very recently stopped making (as far as I know) in his workshop. The Edward Barnsley workshop near Petersfield is still very active to this day and even recruit apprentices into the trade (see back pages of F&C, they also trained Alan Peters amongst others) It is probably only one of the very few workshops that have produced work of the very highest quality over the last 100 odd years or so and you can be absolutely certain that they will use all the latest tricks and toys that you mention, but not, I suspect, the Rat. In my view, and only my view, the Barnsley workshop produces the some of the best furniture around today and also in times gone by - Rob
woodbloke":2e7fgfw4 said:
Why not the 'rat then? It is its sheer versatility at doing the most unusual functions/joints and processes that it holds its position in my workshop (not dovetails). Surely if these workshops are using the latest tricks and toys, why would this one be rejected?
Adam
LyNx":3287rzq0 said:
I haven't upgraded mine at all. I find that each use is so individual, and for a one-off reason, that repeatable digital micrometer accuracy that Tony mentions is not something I require. For me, it is the versatility of the sliding X-Y mechanism that I need, so I have not upgraded any further.
Adam
woodbloke
Established Member
Adam wrote:
Surely if these workshops are using the latest tricks and toys, why would this one be rejected?
The reason I suspect, and I may be wrong, is the 'set-up' time for these complex jigs, the Rat included. There are simply quicker ways of doing similar sorts of joints, which achieve the same function, using a variety of machinery. In a professional workshop, time is most definitely money and a strict time is set for each job; come in under the hours and you're buying the beers Friday lunchtime, over, and its into the office for a quiet word. (I was once given the job of making 6 spider back dining chairs, with arms, in 143 hours total - it eventually took two of us twice as long to make them). These time restrictions don't off course apply in the amateur 'shop, unless you've got 'you know who' breathing down your neck.
I once saw a maker produce a complete set of drawer dovetails (8 drawers) for a knee hole desk using a homemade jig (three blocks of oak screwed together) and an Elu router with a little d/t cutter in about and hour or so - the rest of us just watched - we were gobsmacked! Rob
Surely if these workshops are using the latest tricks and toys, why would this one be rejected?
The reason I suspect, and I may be wrong, is the 'set-up' time for these complex jigs, the Rat included. There are simply quicker ways of doing similar sorts of joints, which achieve the same function, using a variety of machinery. In a professional workshop, time is most definitely money and a strict time is set for each job; come in under the hours and you're buying the beers Friday lunchtime, over, and its into the office for a quiet word. (I was once given the job of making 6 spider back dining chairs, with arms, in 143 hours total - it eventually took two of us twice as long to make them). These time restrictions don't off course apply in the amateur 'shop, unless you've got 'you know who' breathing down your neck.
I once saw a maker produce a complete set of drawer dovetails (8 drawers) for a knee hole desk using a homemade jig (three blocks of oak screwed together) and an Elu router with a little d/t cutter in about and hour or so - the rest of us just watched - we were gobsmacked! Rob
johnelliott
Established Member
I think they ought to include a pocket hole jig into the woodrat, then it really would be a versatile joint making machine
John
John
engineer one
Established Member
i reckon the real improvement of the rat would be the ability
to cut a rebate across a 24 inch piece of wood, rather than as
present only 12 inches.
before anyone jumps, i mean if you have a piece of board that
is 24 inches wide, you can only rebate on the top and bottom, not in
the middle of that side.
sure the bending forces on the ali carrier would be a problem but,
it would really make life more fun.
paul :wink:
to cut a rebate across a 24 inch piece of wood, rather than as
present only 12 inches.
before anyone jumps, i mean if you have a piece of board that
is 24 inches wide, you can only rebate on the top and bottom, not in
the middle of that side.
sure the bending forces on the ali carrier would be a problem but,
it would really make life more fun.
paul :wink:
Johnboy
Established Member
I would like to be able to dovetail without all the mesing about of removing the guide rails and fitting the button pivot and adjusting the cams(is it just me or do the cams always move a bit when you tighten them?) I have been working on a CAD model to achieve this and hope to knock up a prototype over the weekend. My mod will also mean that adjusting the button position will have no effect on the pin angle.
John
John
woodbloke
Established Member
adam wrote:
There's a suprise :roll: :roll: :wink: Rob
There's a suprise :roll: :roll: :wink: Rob
A
Anonymous
Guest
Johnboy":1637k9t5 said:
John
I do just this - DTs without cams or button. The cams and button are in a drawer somewhere and will never see the light of day again and the guiderails are on to stay.
I will try to get time to post my method of work soon (can't post images from work and that is where I seem to always access the forum lately)
First off, the X movement. I'm using a 60x60mm aluminium section that is very strong in it's length and doesn't appear to flex. I'm planning on make the outter section from exterior grade MDF, 18mm for the bottom and 30mm for the top. I'm using 30mm MDF to allow me to cut out the router cutter channel and dust extraction hole without exposing the aluminium section. For the movement i plan to fix a 500mm length of Gear racking to the back face and use two different size cogs to move left and right. One cog will allow fast movement with a smaller one for fine adjusting. All the sizes for the gear rack and cogs still need to be sorted (any help help appreciated)
I've attached a few sketches of the idea so far and i made a coarse mock-up last night and the movement is pretty smooth and solid. I plan on grooving in a piece of 20x10mm PTFE to act as the guides for the moveable channel.
Anyone see any problems with the X movement so far??
I've attached a few sketches of the idea so far and i made a coarse mock-up last night and the movement is pretty smooth and solid. I plan on grooving in a piece of 20x10mm PTFE to act as the guides for the moveable channel.
Anyone see any problems with the X movement so far??
woodshavings
Established Member
Tony":3bpj8ot4 said:
Hi Tony, yes please!!!
I use my rat mostly for tenons and some sliding dovetails, I find the cams/button are too fiddly for normal dovetails.
John
LyNx":3gxsbfo6 said:
Err not quite sure. The woodrat uses a system of cables, and from what I can remember I'm not really aware of any backlash - on the one you show, its gear driven so almost certainly will have a little. I'm trying to work out if it will have any effect, but I think it will depend on what types of joints you are doing, and most likely have no effect.
Adam
