Ujk pocket hole jig

[superscout]

Hello all

Sorry if this has ever been answered before, I purchased a ujk pocket hole jig from axminster last week.
I drilled 4 holes and on the 5th one the drill bit broke it hit a knot I think, would any of you know if I have to use M2 drill bits from ujk or will any drill bits from a trend jig or kreg jig fit.
Any advice would be gratefully received
Chris

 

[JakeS]

I drilled 4 holes and on the 5th one the drill bit broke it hit a knot I think, would any of you know if I have to use M2 drill bits from ujk or will any drill bits from a trend jig or kreg jig fit.

Wow - bad luck, those things are pretty expensive!

Given that the UJK drill bit is advertised as being suitable for Trend and Kreg pocket hole jigs, I'd expect Trend or Kreg bits are also suitable for the UJK jig - but they're both more established brands already so they don't need to mention such things in order to sell their stuff.

If you're paranoid, measure what's left of your UJK bit and I'll compare to my Kreg one.

 

[superscout]

Hi
Thanks for the info I didn't know the drill bit was advertised as suitable for those other jigs, all I know now is UJK drill bits are very hard to get hold of as several suppliers have refund my money because they say the company has stopped making them.

Anyway again thanks for the advice I will try one of those.

Chris

 

[Graham Orm]

Hi Welcome to the forum!

I take it you mean the narrow tip that drills the pilot for the thread of the screw snapped off? It's easily done. Be careful when drilling that you're not going too deep. Also be careful when removing the bit whilst still spinning or inserting whilst it's spinning and catching it on the metal guide tube.
Wait until the wide part of the drill is down the hole before pressing the trigger, likewise when removing, if it's still spinning take care not to catch it on the metal............................can you guess how I know?

 

[superscout]

Hi
Thanks for the welcome and yes it's the fine tip on the end that snapped off and I can imagen how you found out.
I will take note of what you say about about running the drill in the tube.

Thank you very much for the advice.
Chris

 

[Willy]

How about this from Rutlands?

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodwo...pecial-offers-6-hss-stepped-drill-dakota+dkt6

 

[Graham Orm]

Well spotted Will, that's the cheapest I've seen them. No idea on quality.

 

[graduate_owner]

Amazon sell a kreg jig complete with drill and depth stop for £15.25 inc postage. The jig is basic but might be an economic way to get a drill bit plus a bit (sorry for the pun) extra.

K

 

[Willy]

Amazon sell a kreg jig complete with drill and depth stop for £15.25 inc postage. The jig is basic but might be an economic way to get a drill bit plus a bit (sorry for the pun) extra.

K

Now that's a cracking idea. I can see how keeping my UJK jig in the bench mount while having the mini kreg jig would be handy anyway.

OP: here's a link to the jig on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kreg-635709...8&qid=1423570949&sr=8-2&keywords=Mini+Jig+Kit

They also do the bit on its own (with hex shank) for £1 less. Personally I'd grab the jig, and may well do anyway for the heck of it! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kreg-QUIK-B...g+(QUIK-BIT)+Quick-Change+Hex+Shank+Drill+Bit

Edit: Replaced links with non-mobile links

 

[graduate_owner]

Hi Willy,
Glad to be of some help.

K

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'm almost certain that both UKJ and Kreg jigs use a 3/8" hole.

I doubt there's any significant difference in angle, so the thin part of the drill will be the same, therefore Kreg drills will serve (and they aren't that expensive).

Just a thought: If you have two cordless drills available, there's no reason why you couldn't use an ordinary 3/8" drill to do most of the hole, and finish it with the proper one, to get that nice shoulder that makes the system work.

So far I've only used my Kreg kit in softwood, chipboard, MDF and ply, none of which are too demanding. If I was doing face frames in something tough, I'd be tempted to go that route.

One of the things I really like about the Kreg is that the setup calibrations are part of the jig itself - they really thought about it. So you just lay the drill on the back next to the clamp, slide it to the right wood thickness, and set the depth collar. It also protects the 'current' drill bit in a clip underneath, so it doesn't bump around in the box (not so handy if it's permanently mounted though!). I bet those bits are either patented or copyrighted...

E.

 

[boggy]

Another problem with the same jig. I find that the washer head screws that come with the jig don't finish flush with the surface of the wood, but are about 1.5mm proud. This never happened with the Kreg jig I used previously, though I used only standard screws not washer head. Any ideas?

 

[BearTricks]

Grab one or two of the cheap drill bits off ebay. Not sure how they compare in quality to Trend or Kreg but they've outlasted the Axminster ones I bought tenfold.

Disclaimer: Axminster is my favourite place to buy, I recommend almost everything I've bought from there as well as their service. Those pocket hole drills have been complete garbage though in my experience.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

[moosepig]

Another problem with the same jig. I find that the washer head screws that come with the jig don't finish flush with the surface of the wood, but are about 1.5mm proud. This never happened with the Kreg jig I used previously, though I used only standard screws not washer head. Any ideas?

Sounds like either the jig isn't set for the appropriate material thickness or the stop collar isn't allowing the hole to go deep enough.

 

[Stu_2]

+1. Adjust the collar. If you're joining thin material (12mm), Kreg do some screws without the big shoulder.


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