Type of plywood used for making wardrobes/cabinets?

[Alikingravi]

Another option to consider is tongue and groove timber, not the floor board stuff, but the thinner stuff. It would require you to build more frame work, but probably more manageable than working with sheet goods.

Not sure about costs, but I think you'd learn alot more from it, and the results would look much nicer (imo).

Along the lines of this :

That is a good point. Frame construction is slightly more complicated but it is definitely more manageable. Can you get tongue and groove boards from b&q or homebase?

 

[transatlantic]

Another option to consider is tongue and groove timber, not the floor board stuff, but the thinner stuff. It would require you to build more frame work, but probably more manageable than working with sheet goods.

Not sure about costs, but I think you'd learn alot more from it, and the results would look much nicer (imo).

Along the lines of this :

That is a good point. Frame construction is slightly more complicated but it is definitely more manageable. Can you get tongue and groove boards from b&q or homebase?

Yep - comes under 'cladding'

 

[Alikingravi]

Yep - comes under 'cladding'

I have thought about this and it sounds like a great idea, but i will still need plywood to create drawers and some partitions inside the wardrobe, so no escaping that! But I think it definitely sounds better than making the whole thing out of plywood only. Maybe I can go with 12mm ply instead of 18mm for the drawers. I'll work on the costs and see what the benefit is. I think tongue and grove/frame construction will be cheaper, less chances of warpage and lighter in weight. Do you have a suggestion for the frame timber dimensions? Are 65mm(W) x 38mm(T) batons good enough or should I opt for 2 inches by 4 inches?

 

[transatlantic]

Yep - comes under 'cladding'

I have thought about this and it sounds like a great idea, but i will still need plywood to create drawers and some partitions inside the wardrobe, so no escaping that! But I think it definitely sounds better than making the whole thing out of plywood only. Maybe I can go with 12mm ply instead of 18mm for the drawers. I'll work on the costs and see what the benefit is. I think tongue and grove/frame construction will be cheaper, less chances of warpage and lighter in weight. Do you have a suggestion for the frame timber dimensions? Are 65mm(W) x 38mm(T) batons good enough or should I opt for 2 inches by 4 inches?

ply would be more stable.

As for the dimensions, difficult to say without seeing the plan. But 2x4 sounds like overkill. With a suitable number of good joints, 65x38 should be fine.

 

[Alikingravi]

I've sketched this design so far. I am planning on using 90mm(W) x 38mm(T) timber for frame construction. Looks ok to me. I will attach 18mm plywood sheets for the sides and the top. The wardrobe will be screwed into the wall studs for which I have placed some backer boards. I will make the sliding doors using the claddings laid on top of 6mm MDF. Does this look like a viable design?

Front:

Aerial View:

Back:

 

[transatlantic]

Looks good to me

I'd probaly add a few more supporting pieces though. It looks like you're using the ply for the framing in some places, which I'd personally avoid. You want the battons to form the structure, and the ply to add rigidity, as well as filling in the gaps.

 

[Alikingravi]

Looks good to me

I'd probaly add a few more supporting pieces though. It looks like you're using the ply for the framing in some places, which I'd personally avoid. You want the battons to form the structure, and the ply to add rigidity, as well as filling in the gaps.

Awesome sauce! Thanks. The interior of the bigger wardrobe on the right side is not fully designed yet. I will make sure to add plenty of support using the batons. From your update it looks like I need a support board on the front as well, which I was hoping to avoid ... but no worries :lol:

 

[transatlantic]

From your update it looks like I need a support board on the front as well, which I was hoping to avoid ... but no worries :lol:

You don't have to have it, but if you're putting a lot of weight on it, they' will bow, especially across that distance, which looks to be around 2m?

 

[Alikingravi]

From your update it looks like I need a support board on the front as well, which I was hoping to avoid ... but no worries :lol:

You don't have to have it, but if you're putting a lot of weight on it, they' will bow, especially across that distance, which looks to be around 2m?

Yes, you are right. Better to be safe than sorry. It is about 2m and will have to be divided from the middle to add more support. Plus I will need plenty of drawers, so I may put them in the middle all the way up to the top.

 

[MattRoberts]

By 90x38, do you mean CLS studwork?

 

[Alikingravi]

By 90x38, do you mean CLS studwork?

Yes. I'm thinking of getting these:

http://www.diy.com/departments/cls-planed-unfinished-c16-t38mm-w89mm-l2400mm-pack-of-6/492782_BQ.prd

 

[MattRoberts]

Just bear in mind a few things :

- They have a roundover on them (which you may like)
- If you rip cut them they tend to bend as they are Kiln dried
- they're often knotty or can have resin voids in them

Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider

I'd hand pick them rather than getting a multi pack though

 

[Alikingravi]

Just bear in mind a few things :

- They have a roundover on them (which you may like)
- If you rip cut them they tend to bend as they are Kiln dried
- they're often knotty or can have resin voids in them

Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider

I'd hand pick them rather than getting a multi pack though

Cool. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Does the cladding warp and bend too? It is only 7.5mm thick so I am assuming it would warp. I am thinking of laying them on top of 6mm MDF to make the doors so I should be fine. I will make 3 sliding doors to cover the whole width of the wardrobe. Will have to make sure I dont end up blocking any internal drawers though. I havent layed out the drawers yet so will need to keep that in mind too.

 

[petermillard]

Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider

Agree with MattRoberts - here's a few more things to consider. You're massively over-engineering this IMHO, and consequently making work for yourself. 4x2 CLS is for making studwork i.e. walls. You're building a wardrobe, not a bomb shelter, so consider something smaller - 2x2 would be perfectly adequate, if you really want to go the 'framework and clad' route.

Secondly, cladding the framework in 18mm ply is also overkill - 6, 9 or 12mm, tops - as you'll also likely want to clad the inside of the framework; CLS isn't meant to be seen, so isn't generally the prettiest of timber. So now you're lining the framework or on both sides = twice as much work, and sheet goods. No thanks!

I agree that a span of 2000mm needs some kind of support, and this is generally provided by a batten of some kind - can easily be set back within the carcass, so you still get full-height doors - or my personal current favourite, a length of steel bar set into a groove in the carcass. A batten would be easier for someone on their first major project, though. Oh, and it's batten, not 'baton' btw

Lastly, fixing T&G cladding onto 6mm MDF isn't likely to do anything WRT keeping it flat - you'll need something a bit more substantial.

Again, all this is IHMO and not intended to put you off at all, just wanting to make you aware of what you're getting into.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Pete

 

[Alikingravi]

Not trying to put you off using them, just a few things to consider

Agree with MattRoberts - here's a few more things to consider. You're massively over-engineering this IMHO, and consequently making work for yourself. 4x2 CLS is for making studwork i.e. walls. You're building a wardrobe, not a bomb shelter, so consider something smaller - 2x2 would be perfectly adequate, if you really want to go the 'framework and clad' route.

Secondly, cladding the framework in 18mm ply is also overkill - 6, 9 or 12mm, tops - as you'll also likely want to clad the inside of the framework; CLS isn't meant to be seen, so isn't generally the prettiest of timber. So now you're lining the framework or on both sides = twice as much work, and sheet goods. No thanks!

I agree that a span of 2000mm needs some kind of support, and this is generally provided by a batten of some kind - can easily be set back within the carcass, so you still get full-height doors - or my personal current favourite, a length of steel bar set into a groove in the carcass. A batten would be easier for someone on their first major project, though. Oh, and it's batten, not 'baton' btw

Lastly, fixing T&G cladding onto 6mm MDF isn't likely to do anything WRT keeping it flat - you'll need something a bit more substantial.

Again, all this is IHMO and not intended to put you off at all, just wanting to make you aware of what you're getting into.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Pete

Haha. I wish I could make a bomb shelter from 2x4s lol ... I would totally do it. Dont worry about putting me off, I want the cold hard facts, so I appreciate the constructive criticism. Last thing I want is a failed design and wasted investment.

I agree about using ply less than 18mm. The reason for going with thicker "battens" (I stand corrected) is to support the larger width of the wardrobe, although I do see an overkill factor in using 90mm(W)x38mm(T) for framing since I will screw the back into the wall studs. I will head over to b&q again and test the strength of different sized battens to see what will be strong enough.

I will have a think about the claddings. I dont mind the frame to be visible from the inside, but it will be an aesthetic plus to hide them. I have not clue about the doors so far, but I will have a think about that as well. I was thinking of using MDF because it is nice and straight. Maybe ill go with something thicker than 6mm. Will test the strength at b&q next time I'm there.

 

[Marineboy]

Are you intending to paint the wardrobe? If so, you might want to consider making faux cladding by routing vertical V grooves into the MDF. Then you would have no worries re timber movement. I've used this method and to my eyes it is very effective.

 

[Benchwayze]

I count myself lucky. My local supplier offers free cutting services on any materials you buy. Pay for it, take the receipt into the cutting shop, the machinist collects your materials, and cuts it there and then. They also cart your purchases to your car ; (That's what an NHS walking stick gets you!) That little extra costs me the price of a pint, but that's my decision. The Birch ply they supply is high quality, but I am in the position of not having to bother about the price. Not that I am rich, but I know I can't take the green stuff with me come the day! :mrgreen:

 

[Alikingravi]

Are you intending to paint the wardrobe? If so, you might want to consider making faux cladding by routing vertical V grooves into the MDF. Then you would have no worries re timber movement. I've used this method and to my eyes it is very effective.

I'm not sure I follow your suggestion. If I use T&G cladding method, then I will not paint it. I will prefer to stain it.

 

[Benchwayze]

Tongue and groove looks great when painted with pastel coloured emulsion. It needs to be done properly though. So Marineboy's idea is good too, but the finish needs to be spot on. I believe Custard did a tongue and groove job like that on a utility room. (Proper match-board though, I'd guess.) There's a post somewhere on the forum. Have a look.

 

[MatthewRedStars]

You can buy pre-grooved MDF sheets (V groove, cockbead etc) - I wouldn't do it by hand unless there was only a tiny bit to do.