Type of plywood used for making wardrobes/cabinets?

[MattRoberts]

I was responding to the OP who appeared to have been pointed towards MDF. Our posts crossed by 2 mins, Tapatalk clearly doesn't warn when you post and someone else has posted meanwhile.

We're on the same page.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah, my apologies. Great minds!

 

[petermillard]

I'm with Custard on this - MR MDF was made for this kind of application; with (painted) ply you'll just be making work for yourself, and you'll likely end up with a finish that isn't as good. IME MDF generally takes paint very well, wether sprayed, or applied with foam roller; if you can't get a good painted finish on MDF, you're probably doing it wrong :wink:

IMHO the 'weakness' of MDF is also being massively overstated here, for the OPs application. If you're making well-designed fitted furniture, the only time a joint should be stressed is when you move the carcass into position, as it will, by definition, never move again. Like others here, I have made (and painted!) many, many hundreds of items of fitted furniture from MDF over the years using every possible jointing method, and have not had a single failure. Not one.

I don't think pocket-holes are a great jointing method generally, but I'd agree they are 'least good' in MDF - I only ever like to use them as a convenient way of 'clamping' a joint while the glue dries. If you don't feel confident enough to drill & screw through the carcass and fill the holes, then consider another way of doing things e.g. use an end panel to hide them, use some kind of KD fittings, buy a cheap biscuit jointer etc.. etc.. FWIW the fitted furniture industry came across these issues and has largely solved them, years ago...

Whatever you decide, good luck with the project, and don't forget to post pictures!

Cheers, Pete

 

[Wizard9999]

I suggest you spend a little time searching past threads, treasure trove of useful info out there, like this

mdf-wardrobe-t77539.html?hilit=Wardrobe

Terry.

 

[Alikingravi]

Alright! That is some more useful information. If I use MDF then I will never use pocket holes! I would definitely go with drill & screw through the carcass, then fill up the holes. I suppose you could also use metal L-brackets to strengthen up the joints.

I'll look into past threads for more information. Thanks!

 

[NOTTNICK]

I used 12mm birch ply (cheaper) but fitted it into a 44 x 22 frame with dado.
It has strength and looks good as a timber finish.
Judicious use of glue and careful joints eliminated visible screws.
Vertical partition - double skinned with structural battens inside for extra shelf support.
I am pleased with it.
Sliding doors get in the way of good photos.
Nick

 

[Alikingravi]

I used 12mm birch ply (cheaper) but fitted it into a 44 x 22 frame with dado.
It has strength and looks good as a timber finish.
Judicious use of glue and careful joints eliminated visible screws.
Vertical partition - double skinned with structural battens inside for extra shelf support.
I am pleased with it.
Sliding doors get in the way of good photos.
Nick

Hi Nick. Looks pretty neat. Thanks for sharing the photos. What did you use to create runners for the sliding mechanism, wood or an aluminium track? Do you have a picture of that? I know that plywood doors can be susceptible to warpage so I was thinking of re-enforcing the backside of the doors with timber strips, although that would make sliding the doors over each other a bit more difficult. #-o Im sure there will a workaround to that problem.

 

[NOTTNICK]

I didn't make the doors - got some really stylish glass ones - http://www.slidewardrobesdirect.co.uk/m ... -161-c.asp
runners look fairly standard, but good quality, research might come up with a manufacturer. I'll post close-ups. Mechanism is very good.
The double skinned construction of my partition looks pretty sound, particularly re-inforced inside, I am certain it would work for a door too. If you can get a track.....

 

[paulrockliffe]

You can beef up MDF joints (if you really need to) using dados and also by using bolts instead of screws, MDF takes a thread very well and you'll never pull them apart then. Not really necessary though.

 

[mahomo59]

Another way... Design it and have Avonplywood cut everything for you be it mrmdf or birch. They now have clear two sided lacquered birch BB grade approx £65 a sheet depending on quantities. No mess in your flat.

 

[Wuffles]

Another way... Design it and have Avonplywood cut everything for you be it mrmdf or birch. They now have clear two sided lacquered birch BB grade approx £65 a sheet depending on quantities. No mess in your flat.

Someone else suggested that James, but the OP was unsure on cut costs. You've done lots of that, how much does it work out at with a cutting list? I know it's a piece of string, just roughly?

 

[mahomo59]

Ah bugger I scan read as I was getting called for food!

They charge 50p a metre. My last set of wardrobes I had cut was £39. Triple door on one and double on the other, with 12mm birch drawers X 6 of. I had EVERYTHING cut. Carcass, stiles, rail, drawer sides, panels etc.
£12.50 delivery then assemble. I love this service, so accurate and suits me very well.
I'll post pictures on another thread of a kitchen I'm building. Cutting on that one £140, bases, sides, ledgers, drawer boxes etc etc.
Hate it when I have to pick up an 8x4 sheet...way too much hard work.

 

[NOTTNICK]

My local B&Q will cut sheets mm perfect (although they say they can't guarantee it, it always has been) for no extra charge.
When I built my shelves I sorted out the cutting list for 2 sheets, it took a good 15 minutes.
Some of their timber is eye-wateringly expensive, but the ply is reasonable -if you check individual sheets for quality.

 

[MattRoberts]

My local B&Q will cut sheets mm perfect (although they say they can't guarantee it, it always has been) for no extra charge.
When I built my shelves I sorted out the cutting list for 2 sheets, it took a good 15 minutes.
Some of their timber is eye-wateringly expensive, but the ply is reasonable -if you check individual sheets for quality.

My local B&Q appears to be the dumping ground for every banana shaped, void filled piece of crap ply in the country

Fortunately I've found a really friendly timber yard with good stock nearby

 

[Alikingravi]

I can totally understand the patience required to cut large sheets for large projects and ensuring everything is square and fits the required dimensions. I would imagine it can take several hours to make all the cuts, precious time which can be utilised on other tasks. As I am quite new to this, I want to try the cut-as-you-go approach. I have designed the wardrobe I need to make but I dont want to cut all the pieces in one go, in-case I need to change something or in-case my design is flawed. I am also thinking of making a dust extraction enclosure for my circular saw and plug my vacuum cleaner in to minimise the dust. Also thinking of buying a large fan and using it as an exhaust by pointing it out the window. I am determined to make it work! Lol. Plus I can use the money I save on cutting costs to buy an extra sheet of ply!

 

[Alikingravi]

My local B&Q appears to be the dumping ground for every banana shaped, void filled piece of rubbish ply in the country
Fortunately I've found a really friendly timber yard with good stock nearby

I agree, even though B&Q's cutting service is super awesome, I think their sheet goods cannot compare in quality with more specialised suppliers. I've read a lot of delamination reviews from customers.

 

[Wuffles]

Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?

 

[transatlantic]

Another option to consider is tongue and groove timber, not the floor board stuff, but the thinner stuff. It would require you to build more frame work, but probably more manageable than working with sheet goods.

Not sure about costs, but I think you'd learn alot more from it, and the results would look much nicer (imo).

Along the lines of this :

 

[Alikingravi]

Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?

Yes im in a flat. You're right, birch is very heavy....over 30 kgs. Im going to lay it down on the floor on top of a few 2x4's and then make the cuts.

 

[Wuffles]

Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?

Yes im in a flat. You're right, birch is very heavy....over 30 kgs. Im going to lay it down on the floor on top of a few 2x4's and then make the cuts.

Outside you mean? How do you plan to get the sheet(s) into the flat in the first place. Speaking as someone who has fitted bespoke kitchens in flats in Clifton before now. Don't even start me on the parking

 

[Alikingravi]

Don't underestimate the weight of 8x4 sheets of 18mm birch ply, you're not in a flat are you?

Yes im in a flat. You're right, birch is very heavy....over 30 kgs. Im going to lay it down on the floor on top of a few 2x4's and then make the cuts.

Outside you mean? How do you plan to get the sheet(s) into the flat in the first place. Speaking as someone who has fitted bespoke kitchens in flats in Clifton before now. Don't even start me on the parking

Haha, I totally understand what you mean. I am on the first floor, only one flight of stairs. The main door of my building opens and the stairs are right in front. As you land on the first floor, my door is also right in front. So no turning around or manoeuvring required. Once you enter inside, keep going straight and the room is on the right, can easily slide the sheet inside at an angle and lay it on the floor. Obviously will need help from the delivery person to get them up there.