TSaw ripping 4.8mtr length advise

[Oldman]

I have to cut around 10mm off the side of a 4.8mtr 150x32mm deck board, I have never attempted to rip such a long board before and would like some advise on safety and of course not damaging my timber.

I intend to have the wife and one other support the length as its floating off the ends of the saw, with me feeding in.

Anything I should be watching out for?

I would also like to put a 45 deg rip down another boards edge, then cut 45mm off the 150mm wide board.

I have some spare short lengths to test with, but 4.8mtr is a very long rip for a guy who didnt even own a TS some weeks ago

 

[matt]

On the odd occasion when I've had to rip a long board (2.4m...) I've found it complicates control having other people helping to hold the board. Despite best intentions they can't help trying to feed/pull instead of doing what they're supposed to do, and this is support the piece on a level. If you can I'd try and use non-biological supports - ideally rollers but something smooth in any case.

Whatever method you use, try a dry run (with the sawy off) first with the fence set to the original width of the board, passing the board between the fence and the blade. That way you can see how it all flows before going for the real attempt.

One other thought... I'd be tempted to set the blade slightly higher than normal to cater for the inevitable lift off from the bed. That way you can be sure that the blade does not underneath the timber. Depending on the type of fence you've got, you may be able to clamp some block on the fence, fore and aft of the blade, to reduce the risk of the timber lifting. Perhaps also rig up a feather board or two.

I'm not the most experienced with tablesaws so I'd wait for some others to comment/challenge my suggestions before going ahead.

 

[RogerS]

What Matt says.
Plus you'll need four supports I reckon...two on the infeed and two on the outfeed. Matt's dry run will 'prove' that you have the space to do this (about 10m!). I'd also try and have some sort of featherboard or similar keeping the timber hard against the fence. With that sort of length you can get a tendency for it to wander horizontally.

 

[brianhabby]

How about using a portable circular saw with a fence, that's if you have one of course? Might be a safer bet.

regards

Brian

 

[OPJ]

I agree with Brian's suggestion of using s skil saw; it's got to be the better and safer option with something that length! You may find it helps to extend the length of the side fence with a scrap of wood. You will definitely need something 'sacrificial' to provide support, which can also be cut through.

This sounds like it could also work for ripping off your bevelled length... Unless you're wanted to add a bevel to one edge - in which case, a power planer would be best.

Wherever possible, keep the big stuff still.

 

[Oldman]

ok, thanks for the advice guys, I have frightened myself off the TS idea now.
Time to get big bertha the skill saw out instead. I have plenty of sacrifical off cuts to place under the boards I need to cut.
It will be a lot safer cutting that length on the lawn.

I was trying to use the TS more to justify having bought one, so far I dont think I have cut anything on it that I couldnt do with my 2 circular saws.

Cheers all.

 

[Streepips]

Speaking of sacrifical supports, I have used 8x4 polystyrene sheets before today to rest long lengths ( 5.1m+) to rip. Yes you do get a bit of a snowstorm but its very stable and safe.

 

[RogerS]

Just a thought though. Unless you use the TS for a cut like this then how will you gain experience?

 

[Oldman]

Well Roger seems we are thinking alike, I did the Loooong cut with the circular saw and thats worked out fine.

I have left myself with several 3mtr lengths to rip up same as the 4.8mtr one was going to get, so thinking 3mtr is more managable I will have a try over the weekend and see what happens

I made myself a nice big adjustable square around 2ft long

I also reinvented the wheel several times while doing this job.

Threw this together from scrap to cut the angles repeatably with the skill saw

And this for odd cuts and 90 deg using coach bolts and wing nuts.

Why I wonder do they not make the grooves cut in decking the same width as a csunk screw head? If you ever have to remove a screw from decking the only way I can see of not ending up with torn timber where the screw jacks it up via the head is to use a stanly blade to trim a circle around where the screw will jack. A little wider on the groove and it wouldnt do that.

Oh streepips, my other half would go into one had I put polystrene chippings all over our lawn.

 

[OLD]

When ripping on the TS you usually stand near the saw holding the wood against the fence and down on the table with long lengths you have to move away to control/feed the wood so try feather boards to hold to the fence and down to table you can then control the board . infeed and outfeed rollers and helpers also help the board not to tip, use a push stick for final few feet.

 

[dickm]

I'd strongly support the portable saw suggestion. If there is any twist or bend on that length (and there's almost certain to be) then the danger of pinching/jamming on the TS would really scare me. As a general rule, I reckon not to try and move heavy items past sharp things, but to move lighter weight sharp things past the heavy item :?

 

[Digit]

Or cut from both ends.

Roy.

 

[FatFreddysCat]

One difference between a hobby woodworker and a trade woodworker is that in properly set-up trade shops you always see run-off tables to the rear of table saws to support long work pieces. 6 to 12 foot is typical. Without infeed and outfeed support you are asking for the material to bend and get caught by the teeth on the blade as you feed through. It is much safer in this case to support the material and rip down with a portable rip saw even if that does mean a bit of cleaning up with the plane afterwards

 

[Grinding One]

You could maybe rent a power feeder? So all you have to do is turn on the saw,start the board into the blade and the power feeder takes over....you just catch the board on the other side.Of course you will need supports both infeed side and outfeed side, and feather boards....but you asked how one man could do it safely.That is how I would do it.