Triton Tra001 Router question

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Mikebart

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Maybe I am being really stupid but I have the above router fitted in my router table , now I know it can be adjusted from above using the handle but if I do should I have to lock the plunge lever to stop it dropping in use?
The manual suggests yes and when tested not locking it the router bit height changes (drops)
Is there some combination of actions I am missing here?
 
I lock the plunger out of habit, but have used the router numerous times without engaging the plunge lock and the bit has never changed height when mounted in the table.

This may change if you are using a spiral bit which might cause the bit to ride up the workpiece against its own weight - but this is just a wild theory I have, not substantiated with any proof or experience, and maybe complete tosh.

I have also removed the plunge spring when I installed it in the table as it makes changing the bit height from the top a whole lot easier.
 
Thanks for the replies, I always lock mine, but it got me thinking I have never drilled my router insert on the basis of,
If I have to bend down to lock the plunge lever each time I adjust the height while there I may as well use the micro adjust from there as well.
Also as I have a NVR switch connected I have to unlock the on/off switch the use the spindle lock to change router bits again under the table and last speed change has to be done under the table as well.
Real reason for the question is I’m considering boxing the router in to aid dust extraction but would have make it accessible from the front.
Seems like a lot of hassle.Maybe I need a Jessem type setup to save my old knee joints.
 
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With that router, the lift mechanism uses nylon gears and I was advised to use the side knob to get it fully up for bit changes or to roughly where you want it and then use the table top winder to get it into final position, always winding up to height and not down. I also always lock it because if it does slip then on something like a moulding it will mess it up.
 
Thanks again , maybe I need to sell my existing setup and build a router setup on the end of my table saw but I can’t see getting enough for it to pay for a jessem type setup thereby not only saving room but all adjustments could be done from above the table.
 
Thanks again , maybe I need to sell my existing setup and build a router setup on the end of my table saw but I can’t see getting enough for it to pay for a jessem type setup thereby not only saving room but all adjustments could be done from above the table.
Yup. I went this route, and 2nd hand too, given the expense of a router lift. I think it will do the job for me for the short to medium term. I did drill new holes so the lock was optimally accessible.
 
I always use the lock.

R.E dust extraction there is a 3d printable additional part which closes off the whole bit and makes extraction maybe >95% from underneath when mounted in a table. I will post a more extensive reply with a link to it later tonight, it cost me £10 to have printed. No need to box the thing in then
 
Hi - I bought a TRA001 for mounting in a table about 5 months ago. I made it a table (pictured) which is simply a piece of 18mm ply with some bracing, and set some T-Track and the Kreg router plate into it (which is pre-drilled for the triton, and has the right cutout hole for the above table adjustment. I also made a fence for it with some dust extraction consideration and a micro-adjust feature which if you are thinking of making a fence yourself I would highly reccomend.

I have very little space in my workshop, and mostly use a 1/4" dewalt router I have in a compact table, so I won't use the larger TRA001 often. I wanted to make just the table top so that it can be stored flat. I then just put it on saw horses for use. Like @Spectric mentioned above, it is best to use the bigger dial for the main adjustments then make the final adjustment using the above table winder, so having it in this 'table only' setup means I have easy access to the relavent knobs, and the lock off knob you have in question.

R.E dust extraction, which I believe is the real reason for your question, I think people find that the clear plastic extraction cover underneath does not sufficiently close in the bit to get good suction + extraction. I came across this part (Triton dust collector insert by Jahislove - Goodness knows why they opted for a pale excrement colour in the 3D print prototype...) which someone had 3D designed to address exactly this problem, which clips into place very easily and closes the area in under the bit much better, resulting in a huge improvement in extraction. I also had one of these printed to adapt the screw-in extraction port on the existing clear plastic base for my hose, of course it could be changed for any convenient diameter. If you know someone with a printer these are simple parts to print, or you might find someone on here who would do it for you, or I found someone who did both parts for about £20 which I can put you in touch with if needed.

Those extra parts made a gigantic difference, I don't suffer at all now with dust from the underside of the router. I think they would solve your problem.
 

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I would be happy to help out with the 3D printing if anyone wants something printed, can also design if you provide the drawing/sketch.
 
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I think I have confused myself😳 and everybody, my original question was asked because I was considering making a router table on the end of my table saw and was concerned about access to the router for various adjustments and dust extraction below it.
I actually have a UJK router setup with fence and the triton fitted in it, top of the table dusk extraction is fairly good 100mm to 65mm adapter fitted to the fence and close to the router bit.Dust that is not collected from beneath the table I can sweep up .
My table saw already has a base with storage underneath so relatively easy to fit the router in place , and I would save a bit of space by doing so but not at the expense of usability or replacement of existing system or drawers full of dust
Hope that explains my original question a bit better.
 
Just a suggestion. Sell the router and router table and buy a small spindle moulder. Far more capable, stable, better cutting performance and capability than any router table setup. The ridiculous thing these days is that you can buy a secondhand decent spindle with a couple of modern safety blocks for about the same price as a new Triton TRA001 route!
 
Just a suggestion. Sell the router and router table and buy a small spindle moulder. Far more capable, stable, better cutting performance and capability than any router table setup. The ridiculous thing these days is that you can buy a secondhand decent spindle with a couple of modern safety blocks for about the same price as a new Triton TRA001 route!
Have considered that, but I have very little knowledge about not only what to buy but what accessories I would need and the potential cost of such items which could turn into a financial minefield.
 
@deema we are still waiting for some writeup on your knowledge and experience of the spindle molder, there are many of us with routers who never considered the spindle on the basis we did not really know a great deal about them and were carried along with all the blurb about router tables and that so many outlets sell everything router without a whisper of have you thought about a spindle molder. Perhaps it is a conspiracy between the router cutter manufacturers !
 
+1 for the above by Spectric. It's about time you gave us all more information and advice on what to look for, what to buy and from where, and what to avoid! We need this before we can do anything.
 
😂😂😂
I haven’t been working on any renovations of machines for almost a year. I’ve been busy working on getting my new house finished…..which is taking for ever. I have heard the request and wanted to do something where I showed different machines. However, I will put my thinking cap on and put something down. Hopefully others will also contribute.
 
Might not be a good idea, @deema, when all the router table builders and users realise there is a much better way, and a lot cheaper ⛑️
 
I have never needed to lock any of my 3 tritons that are in tables, it’s never even occurred to me to do it, in fact I stripped all additional plastic handles and parts off my machines as well as taking the plunge spring out… they have never moved when doing cuts.
 
Thank you all for the replies I have a routing project when the weather warms up, so will test the plunge locked/unlocked scenario.
 

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