Tree removal, which type of drill?

[pe2dave]

If you do buy a cheap chainsaw, make certain that spare chains are redly available and buy a couple with the saw.

Will do. ~Currently favouring Oregon, lots of chains available. (And oil)

 

[MikeJhn]

Not all Oregon chainsaws have the Powersharp chain and sharpening system, IMO it's essential for any infrequent user, makes life so much easier not having to file each tooth of the chain.

 

[Inspector]

I would clear away more dirt for access, pressure wash the bark clean. After leaving it a day or few for the dirt to dry out unless you like playing in the mud. I would use a 4 1/2" (or your equivalent) angle grinder and with an Arbortech type carving wheel, carve away the wood. The work will go fast.

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/shop-online/power-carving/attachments-accessories/turboplane

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...attachments-accessories/industrial-woodcarver

Or if you feel more comfortable with a guard around the blade.
https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...nts-accessories/industrial-woodcarver-pro-kit

Pete

 

[pe2dave]

I would clear away more dirt for access, pressure wash the bark clean. After leaving it a day or few for the dirt to dry out unless you like playing in the mud. I would use a 4 1/2" (or your equivalent) angle grinder and with an Arbortech type carving wheel, carve away the wood. The work will go fast.

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/shop-online/power-carving/attachments-accessories/turboplane

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...attachments-accessories/industrial-woodcarver

Or if you feel more comfortable with a guard around the blade.
https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...nts-accessories/industrial-woodcarver-pro-kit

Pete

<chuckles/> I cut (ground) one of the roots that way, got a bit smoky! The arbortech wheel was clogging (fresh green wood) every 2 minutes Pete.
Spoke to the neighbour today, he's going to have a go digging his side - then see where we are - we have 5 foot of stem to 'lever' if we can clear / cut
most of the roots.
+1 to the water - ground was bone dry (after 1st 6 months of the year it never stopped raining!)

 

[MarkAW]

I would clear away more dirt for access, pressure wash the bark clean. After leaving it a day or few for the dirt to dry out unless you like playing in the mud. I would use a 4 1/2" (or your equivalent) angle grinder and with an Arbortech type carving wheel, carve away the wood. The work will go fast.

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/shop-online/power-carving/attachments-accessories/turboplane

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...attachments-accessories/industrial-woodcarver

Or if you feel more comfortable with a guard around the blade.
https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...nts-accessories/industrial-woodcarver-pro-kit

Pete

What about push sticks?

 

[pe2dave]

I would clear away more dirt for access, pressure wash the bark clean. After leaving it a day or few for the dirt to dry out unless you like playing in the mud. I would use a 4 1/2" (or your equivalent) angle grinder and with an Arbortech type carving wheel, carve away the wood. The work will go fast.

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/shop-online/power-carving/attachments-accessories/turboplane

https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...attachments-accessories/industrial-woodcarver

Or if you feel more comfortable with a guard around the blade.
https://www.arbortechtools.com/ca/s...nts-accessories/industrial-woodcarver-pro-kit

Pete

An alternative for surface roots Pete?

 

[paulrbarnard]

I’ve dispatched a couple like that with a reciprocating saw. You can get blades about a foot long. They will ‘dig in’ albeit with arm numbing vibration.
Chain saw is best, especially if it’s someone else’s as the soil will bugger the blade. Reciprocating blades really don’t mind getting dirty.

 

[pe2dave]

And for anyone thinking about using a chain saw...
The 'bore cut' is needed. Why?
Because of the nasty top quadrant on the end.

I thought it worth passing on.

 

[Inspector]

An alternative for surface roots Pete?

I guess so. Being for concrete etc it should not get bothered by dirt around the root but looks like it would be slower. You could prove it by racing your neighbour. Duelling grinders at 10 paces.

Pete

 

[isaac3d2]

A number of people have suggested using a chainsaw to cut through roots (half?) buried in the ground.
Please don't do that!
It might work, but it might also throw stones from the soil at you at high velocity. Kick back is a real risk. Worse, the chain may snap and slice through a useful part of your body.
Chainsaws are designed for cutting wood not digging in soil.
You might be safer using a stick of dynamite than a chainsaw! At least you can run to a safe place whilst the fuse is burning!
Seriously, use an axe or a tree surgeon.

 

[thanos999]

what you need is a mattocks https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mattocks/b?ie=UTF8&node=1938907031 the tool that we used to use befor stump grinders were invented ideal for removing tree roots found a better utube

 

[pe2dave]

what you need is a mattocks https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mattocks/b?ie=UTF8&node=1938907031 the tool that we used to use befor stump grinders were invented ideal for removing tree roots found a better utube

Using a mattock in a confined space is ... hard.
This was my choice 12 years ago. works well and fits a smaller hole round the roots.

 

[pe2dave]

In extremis? A vacuum, a scraper and a drill to loosen dirt.
This guy eats chocolate elephants. I have to admire his patience.

 

[isaac3d2]

In extremis? A vacuum, a scraper and a drill to loosen dirt.
This guy eats chocolate elephants. I have to admire his patience.

Impressive! That's a major archaeological excavation. Note that once he has the roots clear he uses a reciprocating saw to cut through them, not a chainsaw.
I would agree with the suggestion that the OP use a mattock. Removal of a fence panel or two is a small price to pay for keeping all your limbs and digits firmly attached.

PS: Consider it as a good workout! Cheaper than a gym membership!

 

[pe2dave]

Advice accepted. I / we can't figure out how the panel is affixed (and only two of us). Concrete post, vert overlapping panel, horiz brace near top and bottom.
Also, I'm used to the 'mini' mattock.
I'm quite jealous of that guys soil - looks really fine (almost dusty) and so easy to dig!!!

 

[paulrbarnard]

Advice accepted. I / we can't figure out how the panel is affixed (and only two of us). Concrete post, vert overlapping panel, horiz brace near top and bottom.
Also, I'm used to the 'mini' mattock.
I'm quite jealous of that guys soil - looks really fine (almost dusty) and so easy to dig!!!

A number of “digging post holes with a pressure washer” videos have appeared on my YouTube feed recently. It could be a low risk excavation technique to get under the stump to part the tap root.

 

[woodieallen]

The one I hired is about 30” at its widest point ( the wheels ) they are extremely heavy and will take 2 or 3 to lift it .. that said it hard work manoeuvring it into position and keeping it there but the end result is no ugly stumps..

Hah...that's a baby one The one our guy brought (complete with team of four...we were felling a lot of trees, true) was tracked. It made short work of some very large stumps.

 

[pe2dave]

A number of “digging post holes with a pressure washer” videos have appeared on my YouTube feed recently. It could be a low risk excavation technique to get under the stump to part the tap root.

Another 'odd one' is using very high pressure air to loosen soil!

 

[paulrbarnard]

Another 'odd one' is using very high pressure air to loosen soil!

They do that in parks to counter compaction from people walking.

 

[pe2dave]

They do that in parks to counter compaction from people walking.

'overdo it' and (could it?) would it loosen soil enough to ease stump removal?
Perhaps not in clay, more likely in sandy soil.