treated cladding on shed

[TheJuicer1]

I am about to start my shed build after taking down a greenhouse so am building it on the 1 course of blocks thats there, 1.9x2.1m. i can get treated cladding boards at the builders nerchant, which I assume is tanalised.... should I treat the wood with what I was going to use if I was just using whitewood that was untreated, barrettine wood protective treatment or leave it as it is?

 

[Cobbs]

I am about to start my shed build after taking down a greenhouse so am building it on the 1 course of blocks thats there, 1.9x2.1m. i can get treated cladding boards at the builders nerchant, which I assume is tanalised.... should I treat the wood with what I was going to use if I was just using whitewood that was untreated, barrettine wood protective treatment or leave it as it is?

Someone will probably correct me on this, but I would leave tanalised wood alone for the first year or two and treat after that, but don't forget to treat the cut ends as you are doing the build.

 

[thetyreman]

tanalised usually costs more, I think untreated redwood pine is just as good painted over, pine can be surprisingly durable with the right paint.

 

[trvlr]

Long chats with assorted wood treatment/preservative companies reminded me that tanalised timber (typically shiplap when used on sidings and roofs) needs to weather for at least 6 months before treating it in any other manner; i.e. further "waterproofing or staining etc..

My neighbours bought a ver nice shed (they had it installed by the suppliers onto a concrete pillars) and used barrettine oil to make it look pretty and also preserve it. I don't think the (shiplap) walls were tanalised.The oil treatment is best refreshed every two/three years or so by all accounts.

Also whilst concrete pillars are cheaper for a shed base, a solid concrete base is better. It deters rodents etc. as they may otherwise decide to move into the free space below the elevated shed base?