traditional jig for holding doors

[Bingy man]

I usually put the end of my block against the door casing when I’m planning so it doesn’t move forward, how well does the Trend version resist forward thrust?

The trend has rubber feet on its base ,, also I found that 2 work best with heavy doors and at least the door is level for planing but I’ve not had any issues with it slipping forward using electric planer or handheld traditional planes -I would however use a non slip mat or dust sheet on laminated or polished flooring. Approx 25 doors used of various weights.

 

[mikej460]

I made one out of lengths of reclaimed 2 x 3s two long lengths a door width apart screwed into 2 cross pieces at each end. The door just jammed in whilst I chopped out for locks and hinges and it worked a treat.

 

[robotmannick]

I've always just used sash cramps laid on the floor.

 

[hlvd]

I've always just used sash cramps laid on the floor.

Things have changed a lot over the years, you’d be working for a firm and have your bag, saw horse, level and that was it, the firm supplied your power tools and anything extra had to be light and small enough to carry around, hence why these door blocks were singular and made out of a length of 4”x2”.
These days joiners are mostly self employed and have a whole van full of tools, so storage and lightness isn’t the problem it used to be.

 

[fixit45]

Once you use the gripper type you will never use any other, they are just so simple. You lay the door in and it holds it then lift the door up and it releases it, no wedging, no tightening things, you really appreciate them if you have been hanging fire doors all day..

I agree with you. When you have several doors a day to fit and work on, anything that reduces the actions you have to make is a bonus and less tiring.

 

[thetyreman]

I ended up making one, works very well and was dead easy to make, used hardwood for the wedges, thanks for the pics and tips.

 

[johnnyb]

I've found as I've got older I've found I seem to have doubled my speed putting locks and handles on. hanging the doors with decent gaps still takes me ages. I seem to have become fussier than I used to be! them blooming slabby oak doors are stupid heavy though.

 

[johnnyb]

I fitted 10 of them slabby doors but I had to make on as it was on 70 inch high. made from solid euro oak and veneered mdf. it was lovely and light

 

[johnnyb]

I had to spray and replace all the arcs as well. I used a good technique to keep everything nicely joined. I cut them accurately then stuck them up using superglue and activator. then nailed them on.it did leave a few gaps occasionally but they were caulker and it worked really well. any one else do that?

 

[johnnyb]

ps is anything nicer than hanging doors in frames you've done.

 

[Lightning bolt]

Sounds like you are sorted but here is a photo of what I used to use.

View attachment 130837

View attachment 130838

Have 2 of these I use, also have a little block the same thickness as a regular door & the same height as the bottom of the notch. This is held in the notch with the wedge when not in use. When in use it keeps the other end of the door up off the floor...great simple inventions & no plastic in this age of awareness...oh & free..

 

[Bingy man]

ps is anything nicer than hanging doors in frames you've done.

I’ve only ever fitted a few frames/ doors. most of my doors are fitted in x council houses and flats where multiple doors have been fitted until the frame no longer supports the hinges and often require repairs prior to hanging new doors . The repair often takes longer than hanging doors . Twisted and out of square frames-oh the joys

 

[thetyreman]

I’ve only ever fitted a few frames/ doors. most of my doors are fitted in x council houses and flats where multiple doors have been fitted until the frame no longer supports the hinges and often require repairs prior to hanging new doors . The repair often takes longer than hanging doors . Twisted and out of square frames-oh the joys

I spend 2 days perfecting the shims needed to make the frame dead square and straight, so can relate, that was way more time consuming than adding the hinging will be, but will be worth it.

 

[Bingy man]

I spend 2 days perfecting the shims needed to make the frame dead square and straight, so can relate, that was way more time consuming than adding the hinging will be, but will be worth it.

Absolutely agree but unfortunately most of my customers don’t recognise a badly fitted door and therefore won’t pay for extensive repairs so I make sure it will stay hung and looks decent for my own pride . Hate having to walk away sometimes but only so much you can do given what customer is prepared to spend and how much time you need to put into the job .

 

[HamsterJam]

I don’t do this for a living but did hang a few doors in a previous house. I just stood them on a couple of slips to protect the edge and clamped one end in a B&D Workmate.

 

[johnnyb]

I went through a phase when it was the only work coming in and I convinced myself I could make a living if I could speed up. I honed it so I went from 3 a day to 7 or 8. now I try and limit this activity to the better paid variety. I charge considerably more for oak and a full day for an exterior.

 

[Bingy man]

I went through a phase when it was the only work coming in and I convinced myself I could make a living if I could speed up. I honed it so I went from 3 a day to 7 or 8. now I try and limit this activity to the better paid variety. I charge considerably more for oak and a full day for an exterior.

Gee whiz 8 per day is motoring- you must of been going flat out -agree with your pricing tho fair play

 

[Phill05]

This is what i used Elu Super jaws it is so versatile and folds up to transport.